SIEM REAP – for Angkor Wat.

Access to Siem Reap Cambodia is very easy from either Singapore or Bangkok. We chose to visit Ankor Wat for just one night while the Mariner was in Bangkok. The flight took just 40 minutes. Detailed information is available on many websites and in many books on the history of the temples so I am not going to address this here. These notes are just a quick and logistical overview of a fast visit to this area from a cruise ship. This is really too rushed but we managed to visit the four main attractions in one full day. We were VERY tired and hot but glad we came rather than putting it off for a different trip when we had more time. We even had time to do the hot air balloon but there was a little too much breeze when we tried to take the flight.

Leaving from Bangkok
A cruise ship normally spends two nights in Bangkok. If you have been to Bangkok before and not to Angkor Wat then this is an alternative way to utilize your time. You can depart from the pier directly to the airport by taxi. This takes about one hour. The pier taxis way over charge at $85 for the transfer but it is much easier of course and you could get an earlier flight to Siem Reap this way to give you more time and visit one of the temples that afternoon. Alternatively, you can take the free cruise shuttle to Bangkok, you pass the airport on the way and this takes an additional 30 - 45 minutes to get to Bangkok. After arrival in Bangkok you can take a taxi to the airport for a rate of about $10.00.

Cambodian Visa and Currency Issue
You can purchase your visa ($20) on arrival at the new Siem Reap airport. Lots of paperwork to fill out that you get prior to or on boarding so you can have this all filled out, this is normal easy information, nothing unusual. The information you read says you must have a spare passport picture. They do require one for the visa BUT if you do not have one when we went they charged you a couple of dollars more and allow you the visa anyway. Probably best to have one with you as regulations are constantly changing. The entire process was efficient and fast and only took about 10 minutes. The Cambodians have their own currency but the favored currency is the US dollar. Accepted everywhere.

Passes for the Temples
A one day pass is $20 and three pass is $40. You also need a picture on your pass but they take these pictures right on the spot – it is very efficient and you get your pass very quickly.

The guides and getting around
There are 1200 guides in the Siem Reap area. We used a guide named Kim San who was the guide selected to give the clue to the Amazing Race contestants. I understand he is also recommended in the Lonely Planet book. He is a University graduate and an independent registered guide not working for a large company, although he is used a great deal by the hotels to be the guide for their guests. He and his younger brother are both guides. He did a very good job. Very clean cut man with good English and he gave enough but not too much information. I was not in “guide overload”. He would answer any questions you may have, about current life in Cambodia and about the situation during the wars. I liked the fact he kept moving most of the time when he talked rather than take you to one spot and then talk constantly. Standing still can make people more tired. He is very flexible and will go at your pace. I do suggest you tell him exactly what you want for example either a local lunch or western style. He is very accommodating and answers emails very quickly. He has a fairly new small Honda Sports Utility Vehicle that was comfortable and has good air conditioning.

Kim San
Email: sourtkimsan@yahoo.com
Website: www.angkor-guides.com
(855) 12 44 84 56

Angkor Wat – Built 1112 to 1152
Leaving the airport on the way to town you get the first glimpse of Angkor Wat at the end of the road. It is a very impressive sight with the huge “moat” in front of the temple. They call this the ocean as it is very wide, more like a lake than a moat. This is a huge complex but it is fairly easy to visit. The walking is mostly flat with just a few steps between the areas and only about three areas of multiple steeper stairs, so very manageable for most visitors other than those who really have difficulty with lots of walking or stairs. This was a temple and was never a city. The monks are around and have an orphanage on the temple grounds. This is a combination of Hindu and Buddhism, a fascinating place that will not disappoint.

Angkor Thom – Built 1181 - 1219
Within a 10 minute drive you reach Angkor Thom. This is a totally different place and built many years after Angkor Wat. This was a whole town and housed one million people. All that is left now is the main temple called Bayon and the royal palace compound, fronted by the terrace of elephants that overlooks parade grounds.
Bayon Temple
This is the temple that has 216 enormous faces built into the towers. These faces look very like the King who built Angkor Thom. Really amazing to see and photographic opportunities are everywhere. I have visited many temples in my time but this particular temple with these incredible faces at every turn make it really unique. For the majority of people this temple is definitely doable with only a few areas of steep steps required. However, getting there is not easy for those with walking or climbing difficulties. The main area you have to climb to get to the towers with the faces there are about 20 steps, these are metal man made steps but they are very steep and there is no hand rail. Others areas are actually climbing from rock to rock, some are steep and sometimes narrow steps. If you can make it you will be rewarded with some amazing sights but need to be aware that this is the most difficult temple to visit in the Siem Reap area.
The Carvings
On the lower level of Banyon Temple is a remarkable carving wall that is incredibly well preserved. This features 11,000 figures showing everyday life in Angkor Thom Here you will see scenes of battles with soldiers of different races (easily discernable), elephants, animals and celebrations of everyday people. If you cannot make it all the way to the top I do suggest you at least visit this lower area of the temple the carvings are quite remarkable.
The Royal Compound and Parade Grounds
After visiting the Bayon temple you have a short drive to the Royal Compound. The parade grounds are a large open grassy area that was used for the arrival of the armies after battle, training grounds for the troops and various ceremonial occasions. There are three main towers on the grounds that served as temporary prisons. The terrace of elephants is a terrace that was used by the Royal family and citizens to watch the events taking place on the grounds below. Of course the terrace has elephant carvings and is 1000+ feet long. After viewing the area from the terrace you go down the other side into the royal enclosure. This is a vast area but there is little left now as most of the buildings were made of wood. This is a flat area so it is easy walking but there is not as much to view here in comparison to the other sites.

Ta Prohm, the Jungle Temple – Built 1186.
This was probably my favorite site that I visited. This was a Buddhist temple dedicated to the King’s mother and built to house her ashes on her death. The area that originally housed the King’s mother’s ashes had holes in the walls that once held precious gems. The huge trees and tree roots wrapped around the temple buildings are a fascinating sight. As we walked through the area there was one amazing photo opportunity after another. We found this to be really spectacular and unique experience and loved our visit here. At this time they are in the process of reconstructing the temple areas and it is remarkable to see a pile of rubble and next to it the recreation of that rubble into the temple. This was an easy visit as far as visiting ancient sites goes, with very few steep areas.

Tonle Sap Lake - Chong Kneas –The Floating Village
This is another rather unique Cambodian experience about 20 minutes from Siem Reap. These are not floating markets as you see in many other areas of the world but actual villages complete with churches, schools and medical clinics. The cost is $15 per person for an hour to an hour and half. You are placed in your own private boat and driven to the floating village. Your boat driver is not a guide and probably speaks very little English, but the guides normally go with you on the boat. This is a sight for the eyes, not much commentary is needed. A hive of activity is what awaits you as the fishermen and clearing their nets of the tiny fish, the waterways have vendors selling fresh fruit and goods to the residents, children are actively moving around in small boats and in some cases floating in buckets. A few unpleasant smells are also present but not too bad. Photographers will find this hour filled with great opportunities. It is hard to comprehend living this way but all the residents seem to be very happy and wave.

Overview of Siem Reap and Cambodia
World class accommodations are available. We stayed at the Le Meridien a fantastic hotel but there are many high quality five star hotels. Rooms were wonderful. You cannot drink the tap water but bottled water was everywhere.

I felt very safe in this country even walking around the downtown streets at night. The TUK TUKS (motor cycle with a little hooded carriage in tow that can hold two to four people), are everywhere and an easy way to get around. Prices are very cheap for a short trip $1 per person and I understand $15 to $20 for all day use.

The downtown market area is dusty streets, full of tuk tuk’s and many stores selling the normal tourist wares and a few nicer stores. Lots of restaurants and bars both traditional and western food. I understand the streets will be paved in a few months as soon as they finish their new drainage system and this will make a huge difference.

The country has only been at peace for about ten years so it is in a rebuilding stage now. The average person is still struggling and the homes are tiny and yet there is an air of hope and enthusiasm. The people appear to be very happy, they are at peace, education and medical care is now available to everyone. Not sure of the standard of these services but it is much more than they have had for many years. They LOVE having their pictures taken, they do not ask or expect payment for a photograph. Only time we paid for a photo was for a group of teenagers dressed in the traditional costumes that posed, obviously for tourists they did not ask for money but we paid them and they had big smiles. This is quite refreshing, this area is not too spoilt by tourism yet but this is the growing industry that will help the country prosper. There are numerous children constantly trying to sell you something of course and I probably bought more stuff here than I had no interest in than anywhere else I have been. I left with a good feeling about this place and the people. If I came back I would bring things for the kids. I gave two boys an apple each and they were so excited that a westerner gave them something the smiles and laughs could not have been bigger.