Faru Faru (means "rhino rhino" in Swahili) IS another lodge fit for a princess. We took the morning milk run flight here from Lake Manyara. Our very cute South African pilot, Rian (pronounced ree-an) gave us commentary and assured us we'd get the entire Serengeti safari experience via an aerial morning game drive. He was right.

We started out flying over the massing of flamingos at Lake Tanganyika. they were flying around, in the water and generally turning the coastal area neon pink. There was another couple of Texans when we boarded, so we decided the Texans constituted a majority and we would travel as the Lone Star Republic.

Four stops later (and about 3 hours after take off) we'd seen running herds on their migration north, an incredible number of herds, and a few eland (giant antelope you don't see too often outside of the Serengeti or its northern neighbor, the Masai Mara). We touched down at Sasakwa Airport, home to the three Singita lodges. There were several men pulling up canvas around a bamboo building. Yep .. we're back at Singita.

A Plush Tush in the Bush experience awaited. Flushing toilet, hand cream, mirrors and an easy chair was at the disposal of the lucky occupant. After a much-needed biology break, we were on our way to Faru Faru. This concession (just north of the main Serengeti Plains on the eastern side) is GINORMOUS. It's got 74 beds for the same area as the Serengeti National Park (within the plains) which has 2,000 beds. We're likely to encounter only one other vehicle (if at all) on game drives while we are here. Everyone's fingers are crossed the migration gets here before we leave. Based on our aerial safari, the animals are very close to crossing into the Grumeti concession.

It turns out the owner of this property (Paul Tudor Jones for all you hedge fund or University of Virginia alums) has flown in two black rhinos from the London zoo to repopulate this area after significant poaching in the 1970's resulted in a permanent absence. The only trouble is .. 4 years later and they are still not in the mood for procreation. They will be released into the wild fairly soon with strict monitoring. Hopefully, some of the other black rhinos figure out that spot is uniquely safe and come on down in their quest for procreation.

The other unique feature of this section of Africa is Tse Tse fly traps. Everywhere. For those flies who elude capture, they are blood suckers. Moving blood is their main objective - including us. Remember the old Ban roll-on deodorant? We've got roll-on insect repellent. I assure you, I will be liberally applying it for this afternoon's game drive.

There are eight of us in camp today. The decor is described as 1940's botanist camp style. The managers are delightful folks (South Africans by birth, Tanzanians by desire) and are only too happy to make our stay enjoyable. If we like, we can eat a meal at either of the other two Singita properties on the concession. We are planning that for tomorrow's game drive and breakfast. Suzie, I'm planning to peruse that wine list and have a bottle or two sent down in your & Hoop-de-do's honor.

We had a lovely set lunch served family style overlooking the Grumeti River. We've decamped for some down time before the 4:30 game drive. I'm watching a brown kite sail by our panoramic glass wall in the comfort of air conditioning.

I ask you, what is not to like?

Cheers, Anne