Double or nothing?

Sunday's weather also cooperated. Four of our group (the lens lads Ken, Ron & Champ) and Linda decide to try once again, this time with a family that had moved further down the mountain. The other four of us donated our permits to Nigel, the manager and a few thrilled key staffers at the Silverback. Local folks have to pay the same $500 permit fee to see the gorillas, which is about a month's gross pay for the best paid park guides (a very cushy & lucrative job). We were really glad to see those permits used to help educatethe staff at Silverback.

Ngaire, Michele, Don & I slept in and took the other car to look at the local area & other places to stay that might be conducive to a trekking adventure. We drove to the end of the Virunga area, lined with terraced farming. Think the rice fields of Bali - only a whole lot steeper and made up of multiple crops. The soil is incredibly rich and fertile. At the end of our drive, we reached Virunga Lodge, with a setting to die for. It was in between twin volcanic lakes and offered 8 lovely cottages run solely on solar power.

The main lodge is rustic and toilets are 'eco' - meaning you have to be really desperate to use them. when the instructions start with 'men must sit down' and conclude with 'and don't forget to cover what you just left with a ladle of ashes', you just know lots of local insects are going to find those facilities a fertile feeding ground. It's an extra 1/2 an hour to the start of the treks on an even bumpier, steeper road than the one to Silverback. On the bright side, Jack Hanna rents out his cottage (sleeps 4) directly across from the park entrance. Not sure what the price is, but that had to be the most convenient choice in nearly all respects.

We got back to Silverback around 1 pm. Our trekkers returned about 2 pm. The trek was somewhat easier and, thankfully, the family was not moving so the photos were better. It was hotter, so the sweat factor went up commensurately.

We had permits on Monday for the golden monkeys. Permits are $100 per person and, unlike the gorillas, there are no limits as to how many people can go in a given day. Six of us made it out the door for that trek. It was cooler and cloudy with the definite hint of rain in the air. We trekked in about 40 minutes, where we were thrilled to see the monkeys jumping around just inside, on top of and over the walls to the park. Lots of photos and action for the first 1/2 hour, before the monkeys headed deeper into the park.

We went through the wall and were back into the bamboo jungle. The monkeys surrounded us in the canopy. It was surreal. A few crashed into the bamboo where we were standing but most stayed just out of camera reach. What a privilege it was to see them in both settings. Six trackers were needed to keep us near the monkeys, as they move so much faster than the gorilla families.

We slid out of the park after the hour was up and headed up another set of fields to reach the lands adjoining Silverback at the top of its property. We were rounding the corner to our property when a cow took considerable exception to our presence. She charged after us, and the little kid who was watching her gave chase. He managed to turn her around, but not before she gave Ron a piece of her mind. The little kid then played hide & seek with Ron's efforts to get a picture of him.

Have shaken off another animal intrusion, we saw home sweet home by 10:30 am. Fantastic - it meant we didn't have to climb up to our cottage again.

The camp left our rooms open so we could shower, change and get our bags moved down to the main area. Lunch was a tasty reward to our trekking activity. I liked so much about this property but recognize the very limited internet & electricity is a barrier. The steep steps are also only for the hale & hearty, given the 8185 foot starting point in altitude. It's also quite pricey, but I'm confident we were effectively supporting the local communities by patronizing that lodge.

We rolled promptly at 1 pm, reaching Kigali by 3:30. We stopped at the genocide museum, then had a brief city tour. the hotel remembered us so check-in was much easier at around 6 pm. Back to the bar for burgers & beer, then off to bed for a really early milk-run flight to Tanzania this morning. Linda & Ron left on a late night flight to Capetown via Ethopia to join their group.

all in all, Rwanda was far more than we expected in every respect. The companionship, accommodations, people, activities and sheer beauty of this place will leave a lasting impression, I think it is safe to say, for all of us.

Cheers, Anne