We just got internet access so are happy to give an update. I'm doing this in two parts - starting with a general update.

The many faces of Rwanda, Land of a Thousand Hills

The sights and sounds of this country capture our attention. Outside of Kigali, it's a largely a rural, agricultural area. Foot power is the #1 source of movement, and women and men still carry awesome loads on their heads. A pair of shoes is a luxury in this part of the world. A bicycle is a real step up; those were laden with a massive number of goods when we saw them along the road. Our vehicles roll by, bringing out stares, smiles, and scowls (in that order) from the locals. Children were returning home from school for the week, tumbling and jumping down the roadside in their blue, green or gold uniforms, laughing and (in one case) hopping on the back of the vehicle for a lift. The road is being widened, all with manual labor. There is no such thing as a shoulder, so we drove very slowly past the workers in the trenches.

Nigel, acting manager at Sabyinyo, described it best. We look like extra-terrestials to the local population. They have the shirts on their back, a clean but tiny home, and perhaps an acre of land which requires a very long work day to feed the family. The lack of material wealth is more than made up for in hope, spirit and the desire to improve themselves and their country. The population is young and largely industrious. We could have taken 3 days (rather than 3 hours) to drive to the lodge, given the abundant photo opportunities.

Sabyinyo is a community owned lodge administered by the Governors' Camp group out of Kenya. It employs many in the community, and makes the connection for the community that conservation can be profitable. So far, it's been a successful venture (since mid 2007) in terms of employment and extra additional funds to build out infrastructure and educational.

It's built to minimize carbon footprint. For the hale adventurers among us, it's a most interesting visit. It is not on the electric grid; a generator runs for approximately 6 hours per day. Electrical backup is stored between the generator times, so one can charge batteries anytime but cannot keep all the lights on and expect to have power 24/7. Heat comes from a wood burning fireplace, which doubles as a water heater. Hot water bottles are nestled in our beds to keep us cozy during the night. You have to call the front desk (walkie talkies, not telephones) to ask them to turn on the hairdryer switch for you. The lack of self-sufficient conveniences is more than made up for by the willingness and exceptional service delivered by the staff. It's an all-inclusive resort (with a few exceptions).

We're about 1 degrees south of the equator, sitting at 8,250 feet above sea level. One arrives at the parking lot (Park at your own risk!) and is immediately greeted by staff, security people and one really awesome set of stairs, bridges and upward curved uneven rock walkways to the main lodge. The staff took our bags and we started up the walkway. It was one very fast dose of reality for us – we were all huffing and puffing and stopping on our way to the lodge.

Rooms were assigned – and that meant steep or steeper inclines and stairs to get there. Champ and I have the highest elevation. There's not much of a view, yet the sounds of the surrounding area (birds, buffalo, kids, singing) float up from the valley and add to the relaxing quality of this special place. The resident white necked ravens fly onto the patio and knock on the french doors with their beaks. They can be fed at breakfast time near the lodge. That means they grab the goods, fly off to secure them in a secret location, then fly back for a close up visit. The bulbars and yellow weavers come in next to scavenge the leftovers.

The temperature is moderate and it's comfortably humid. I believe the only real weather difference is between the wet and the dry seasons. We are here at the very end of the rainy season, so everything is lush, green and growing. This is located in the Virunga region, comprised of a string of six volcanoes shared by Uganda, Rwanda and the Congo. Abundant hiking, mountain biking and community visits are available if the gorilla trek is not the sole reason for your visit.

I'd love to spend a little more time here to take advantage of the hiking opportunities and to mingle a little with the local communities.

We returned on Monday to Kigali. Our stop at the genocide memorial coincided with the national period of mourning (April 7 – July 17). The remains of the mass graves are incorporated into the memorial gardens. Lots of flowers, pictures and tears marked the loss of so many lives.

The Kigali Serena hotel has been a great place to stay. Free internet (yes!), a nice casual restaurant, excellent breakfast buffet and a central location make it most comfortable. We leave at 5 am today for Tanzania.

Cheers, Anne