Wow, what a saga! Great journalistic sleuthing Marc, even if the translations are a bit confusing. The SS Voyage Journal is going to be a really interesting read.

I set up a google alert for news - here's something in English from the Siberian Times. No new info, but the English is better,

http://siberiantimes.com/other/othe...se-passengers-coming-ashore-in-chukotka/

Ngaire like others have said, sooooo good that you and Ken pave the way for others.

Sorry that Chukotka was missed....you have sure had an "expect the unexpected" journey and as always, you and Ken handle it so well.

Maybe it's lucky you couldn't get off the ship or you may have ended up in a gulag . It looks like Russia is setting up some sanctions of their own--if their oligarchs can't go to Disneyworld, then our "rich pensioners" can't go to remote Russian islands. Hope you continue to enjoy the trip despite the bureaucrats.

LIFE IS GOOD

At this moment I am SO GLAD the Russians would not let us on shore. Today has been absolutely super and more is yet to come.

Last night at the recap the expedition leader when over what they had planned for us after we left Nome. We were to visit two Inuit settlements. The town of Wales with 150 inhabitants the most westernmost American city (great trivia question) and Little Doimede with 75 inhabitants. Neither of these small villages have EVER been visited by any kind of tourist ship. They set all this up by phone with the Mayor of Wales. He told the expedition leader to come to his house when he arrived on shore, the biggest one at the end of town and he was the big hairy man. The more the expedition leader talked about the plans and showed us pictures of where we were going the more excited we all got.

Our expedition team were also told there were other visitors in Wales. A group of 10 comprising of South Africans and Russians swimmers. They are here as they are going to swim across the date line! The day we arrived they were transferring to Little Diomede in the afternoon. So they would be with us in Wales and then again in Little Diomede.

Our landing was wet and there was quite a high surf but we all got ashore safely, although a bit wet. Boots and waterproof pants work wonders. The day was picture post card perfect. 50 degrees and bright sunshine and no wind. I wore my light windbreaker and ended up taking that off and rolling up my sleeves. The beach was full of the locals of all ages, and little children everywhere. They were taking pictures of US it was so much fun. All the locals were so nice and welcoming. We were free to wander anywhere. There is a nice school with 32 children enrolled from Kindergarten to 12th grade. Two local very small stores with basic supplies. There is a clinic that is being updated to include running water. The only places with running water are the teacher’s house, the laundry, and I might have missed one! The homes do NOT have running water. They collect their water from local streams. In the winter time they buy water from the laundry at 25 cents a gallon.

The locals acted as guides and were so open about their community, customs and lives. We ended with a group of teenagers and one girl I think was a little bit older. They were all about 19 years of age and just finished high school. Their lives, the issues, (not enough young men to whom they are not related) wanting children, the pride in their way of life. This was one of the most fascinating days I have ever had in my travels. Today has me very excited about the upcoming trips on Narwal and also on Sumo. I love animals but seeing natural cultures living such different lives in their own environment is really a special honor. These are subsistence living communities. I could write pages about all the fascinating things I heard and saw today.
They did a dance performance for us (3 girls and four men with their drums) and there was one tiny little girl who wanted in the dance. She could not have been older than 2 and she was trying so hard to dance like the big girls. Absolutely darling. Then there was an 81 year old woman who was smiling and laughing and having the time of her life.

This was an incredibly special visit, there was a sign in the local store saying we were coming and to welcome us on shore and I think almost the whole village turned up.

When I think back to that depressing Russian town that we were docked at for the day and then the experience we had this morning no doubt in my mind this ended up being a wonderful outcome.

The swimmers were there but the South Africans had left for Little Diomede. The Russians were still in Wales and were going to be transported by helicopter. But the helicopter had technical difficulties so they are now on board with us hitching a ride to Little Doimede.

So now after a lunch of big fried shrimp, lamb chops, cauliflower au gratin and other yummy items we are on our way to Little Diomede. This is a small island with very steep cliffs straight into the water. There is only one tiny spot that a human could live and there are 75 people there. In the winter time they ice is so thick they carve out a landing strip for planes for some essential supplies. When I saw the google earth pictures last night I could not believe what I saw. So we are all set for another adventure.

Helen and Rachel, I love the Helen's and Steve. We have enjoyed them so much I have been told I am now an honorary Helen NUMBER FOUR. I consider that an honor!

Ken is working on pictures I am sure he has some good ones.

The issue is just the Chukchi area. I heard a flight from Petroavlosk was not allowed to take off as it would fly over the Chukchi area on the way to Nome. Not sure what it is all about but they sure do not want anyone in that area.

Silversea is so creative and resourceful when it comes to making alternate plans.That's what an expedition is all about. Sounds like a fantastic day! Everyone will have so many memorable stories to tell. Can't wait to see the photos.

Wow, your day sounds outstanding.
I would have loved it.

I am thinking the Russians are cutting off their nose to spite their face.

Our first stop is (was) supposed to be at Provideniya, so I hope they substitute Wales instead before heading to allowable Russian ports.
Jim

I am so ready to book this adventure.....or one just like it. Time for the photos, Ken.

WOW I love it when things turn out so well. Silver Sea really turned the lemons into lemonade today! Can't wait for the pictures.

Ngaire, what a wonderful turn of events! I was so happy to read every word. What a thrill not only for you, but those townspeople as well. And even better, that the Russians were allowed to hitch a ride! Bet they enjoyed that. (Thumbing my nose at their gov't, sorry)

I can imagine why this was one of the best travel days for you, ever! Bet other passengers felt the same, as I'm sure these "rich pensioners" are well-travelled and long ago learned to roll with the moment. And especially for those young adults who led you around for your tour. Wishing I were there.........

Little Diomete

Well talk about a contrast. Seeing both was great.

WALES was pretty clean, all the people seemed well educated many had traveled to other parts of Alaska and some to the lower states of the USA. All the girls I talked with had jobs and people arrived around lunchtime that had obviously been working they had on cold water coveralls. All the families were scooting around on four wheel all teraine vehicles. Cannot imagine living there but would take that any day over Little Diomete.

As we approached Little Diomete in our zodiacs I could not believe that a community lived here. A tiny spit of land against sheer cliffs. We got off the zodiacs onto timbers and rocks. I nearly stepped on a walrus carcass. That would not have been pleasant. Polar bears come when the water is frozen and they did have polar bear skins and skulls around the town.

The town was built with a synthetic and metal walkway up the hill between all the very small houses. The local people acted as guides took us around. It gave the impression of being years behind the progress of Wales. I asked our guide if she had ever been to Wales and she said “I do not know any of those people. Our people do not travel”

There were a lot of racks for drying seal meat and skins and lots and lots of garbage. Rusting tractors on the beach, old broken down snowmobiles. There was a military building and a nice new school where they performed more dancing for us. There were two new wooden houses that had running water all the rest get it from a stream that comes down the mountain. One general store. They get mail once a week if the weather is good enough. Many of the houses looked like they were about to fall down.

Steve asked what she did for a living. She said she looks after her two girls. Her girls were adorable at 5 and 3 and dressed alike. So he asked what did her husband does for a living. She did not understand so Steve asked what her husband does when he wakes in the morning. She explained he visits with friends and plays with the girls. So I guess that means he has no job. She said a few people work in the general store and they used to be able to rent videos so those people worked but they moved away. So it appears a few work and the rest just live. Teachers are bought in to teach in the school. In the winter time she said they do go ice fishing, but in the summer they do not go fishing. They also do some crabbing in pots. They eat bird eggs and the birds.

Kids and dogs everywhere. The older children were definitely wanting to interact and the little ones were really looking us over. A little girl of 3 kept hugging everyone. Little kids just grab your hearts all around the world. The little “hugger” said to Alice “BOAT”. Alice told her she did not have on any shoes so she could not go on the boat. She ran off to come back later find Alice and show Alice she now had her shoes on and said BOAT?

I really enjoyed today and particularly the contrast between the two communities. All the people were friendly in both communities and welcomed us very warmly and seemed pleased that we were there. It was a delightful day.

The three Russians we bought over to Little Diomete and fed them with a Silversea lunch wanted to show their appreciation. So when all the zodiacs came back they got in the water for their practice swim. One Australian passenger was joining them but he did not last long in the water. They did not have on any wet suits just swim suits and bare skin. They played around like they were swimming in the Caribbean. BIG guys.

The international date line is right between Little Diomete and Big Diomete. Little Diomete is the USA and Big Diomete is Russian. The only community on the Russian Big Diomete is a military station. The Russians will probably make the swim tomorrow between the two islands and cross the international date line.

So tomorrow we have a dog sled ride and panning for gold. Muskox are in town the customs man said about 100 of them are in town right now. Hopefully we will get to see them.

I am still-awake and enjoying every word, Ngaire! Can't wait to hear more tomorrow! Loved the Russian swimmer story!

Jim as I understand it they must go to Provideniya to clear the ship for the rest of the Russian islands. You will just not be able to get off there but the clearance for the rest of Russia is done in this port. All the Chukchi area is off limits but nothing else. I know Conrad has been busy getting alternates plans in place for the Chukchi area and also other ports just in case something similar happens for both the Silver Discover that does the Russian Islands when we debark and the Silver Explorer for your trip.

You should be just fine and the Russia islands will be interesting. I am sure there is a "Russian Wales" in your stops. If fact the port after Provideniya, Lorino village was a native community and probably would be very much like Wales. I think the native communities will be the most interesting.

Provideniya was not a nice sight really. Very stark and depressing as you will see when you are docked there for clearance. I do believe the difference between Russian Islands and the native islands will be very interesting. It is all really quite fascinating and a life style so removed from the rest of the world. Although "little kitty" was all over Little Diomede with the little girls.

Many of the guests bought school supplies for the children for the Russian Islands and we gave all of that to the people of Wales. It was much appreciated so just something to think about for your trip. We had not done that and I wish we had thought about it and I will bring some things for the Northwest Passage. Just a little bit from everyone adds up to a lot!

Looks like the Russians have gotten their act together; Hanseatic and future trips are now approved.

So happy things worked out so well for you, Ngaire. Welcome to honorary
"Helen-dom"!!
--------------
Helen1

Photos from Wales, Alaska population 150. Cruise ships do not normally come here:


A note in the local grocery store in Wales.


The landing was interesting, some passengers got pretty wet.


We were greeted these nice girl that showed us around. Ngaire was showing off her new hat that she purchased in Dutch Harbor.








Tribal dances and songs were done for us for our entertainment ashore.




The older lady was 81 years of age and still singing the tribal songs.

I love these! Thanks for sharing the photos of a very special day for all!

Just received this in my news alerts - good news for the future cruises:

Russia to reopen Chukotka to foreign tourists:

http://en.itar-tass.com/non-political/743122

Great photos, Ken!

Great pics. Wales looks extremely upscale compared to the far north native towns we saw in Canada last year,

Post from Ngaire:

I posted that last post just as we sailed into Nome. Then the internet went down. We found out it would stay down until the ship sailed again due to large satellite antennas that were blocking our signal.

So I am writing up our last day on this adventurous cruise. We had three school buses for our morning tour. Panning for gold, dog sledding demonstration, city tour and then searching for Muskox that have been around town for the last few days.

We boarded our school bus and if any of you have ever seen the Canadian TV comedy show called Red Green that is what we were experiencing. Two locals with enough natural humor (without trying) to make a TV reality show. It was so much fun. They were telling stories about Nome and playing off one another. Not to be funny but it was funny. The gold panning was presented by a very most colorful ex New Yorker. Strong personality and ex actor he delivered his story of ruining his career on the stage due to alcohol, how he got to Nome and what he does now. He would be a fabulous tour guide. We all managed to get a little gold.

Then onto the dog sledding. The dog were great and anxious to go. It was a husband and wife team with about a 10 year old daughter. The husband or wife always enters the race and they are training their daughter for the future. Very interesting information on what it costs, how it works etc.
Then a museum, lots of pictures from Wales and Little Diomede so we all liked that since we had just been there. The Park Service Headquarters had a set of Wooly Mammoth tusks on display, they were huge. This area had a lot of Wooly Mammoths. They also had a muskox coat that was interesting to feel, it was very soft. The obligatory gift shop stop and then we left to go muskox hunting.

This got absolutely hilarious. They started off with their skills of finding the muskox and then totally disagreed on where to go. They thought they saw one and went on this bumpy dirt road to find out that it was not muskox but barrels. The driver had to back out and kept telling us he was a “professional” so not to worry. In this rickety old school bus, he was a little disheveled to say the least he did not look like a “professional” but the guide assured us he was indeed a professional. There three tough looking Alaskans parked at a junk yard watching us go down this road and I am sure they could not figure out what we were doing. They were laughing and waving. The bus driver talked as much if not more than the guide. We all just loved it. Then one of our expedition team members spotted a muskox way up on the hill. Our two fearless Alaskan leaders assured us it was not a muskox as they don’t go up hills. Of course it was a muskox and we got a glimpse of it and you could tell the shape and that it was definitely a muskox but so far away. In fact it walked from midway up the hill to the top of hill.

The comedy routine that truly was not intentional was priceless we fell in love with these two characters and their stories. I cannot describe the roads we went on and how many times he assured us he was a professional not to worry. We were all laughing our heads off and they were really good natured. They got roars of approval when we left the bus. We tried to tip the “professional driver” but he said it was not necessary give it to the guide. Guess he was a true professional after all.
They had shuttle into town but we decided to stay on board. Ken is working on pictures and I am packing. Been a great trip for sure and not exactly what I had expected, I think it was better!
A long trip home. We left Nome at 12.45pm, July 31 and do not get home until 5.00am the next morning. About five days in town and then off to the Silver Explorer for the Northwest Passage.


Photos from Little Diomede, Alaska:


Two islands, Russia on the left (Big Diomede), USA on the right (Little Diomede). At their closest points,
the two islands are about 3.8 km (2.4 mi) apart. The international date line runs between the two islands.


The three Russians on the right were going to swim from Little Diomede, Alaska to Big Diomede, Russia.


The Russians did a practice swim for us to watch.


Don't you know that water is freezing.


We arrive at Little Diomede.


Seal meat drying in the sun.






This little girl wanted to leave with us. When Ngaire told her she could not go with us she became very sad.


The children said their goodbyes to us.

What a great trip you have had Ngaire and Ken. Your tours sound really great, definitely not the same 'ole, same 'ole. The last one especially sounds like so much fun. It is so much fun to just "go with the flow" and see what happens.

The poor little one did seem so sad.

Thanks so much for taking us along on this trip with you, it's been fun for us too!

It was great seeing Martin on the Silver Discoverer. Martin was previously on Regent for many years.
He sent this plate to our suite on the last night of our cruise.

Way cool plate!! Ngaire, I am loving your longer hair!

Really fun to follow along on this trip Ngaire and the pictures are so great. Love the sad look on that little girl's face, she is so cute. And how fun seeing a picture of Martin, remember him well from B2B.

What an awesome trip! Thanks for the stories and photos!

Thanks so much, Ngaire and Ken for your great report on the Discoverer. Sounds like you had a fabulous time. Hope you will post ship pics on your smugmug account.

What a fabulous trip you've had, just great taking us along with you. I think many of us remember Martin, always was great to us. Your trip has been so fantastic, laughed so hard imagining your guide and the bus driver.

Now we need to hang on waiting for Narwhal seamail to begin.

Saw this on Facebook. What was missed when the Russians wouldn't allowed last week's Discover guests (Ngaire & Ken) to disembark. Includes some interesting photographs. Happy they reversed themselves.

www.expeditionworkshops.com