LIFE IS GOOD

At this moment I am SO GLAD the Russians would not let us on shore. Today has been absolutely super and more is yet to come.

Last night at the recap the expedition leader when over what they had planned for us after we left Nome. We were to visit two Inuit settlements. The town of Wales with 150 inhabitants the most westernmost American city (great trivia question) and Little Doimede with 75 inhabitants. Neither of these small villages have EVER been visited by any kind of tourist ship. They set all this up by phone with the Mayor of Wales. He told the expedition leader to come to his house when he arrived on shore, the biggest one at the end of town and he was the big hairy man. The more the expedition leader talked about the plans and showed us pictures of where we were going the more excited we all got.

Our expedition team were also told there were other visitors in Wales. A group of 10 comprising of South Africans and Russians swimmers. They are here as they are going to swim across the date line! The day we arrived they were transferring to Little Diomede in the afternoon. So they would be with us in Wales and then again in Little Diomede.

Our landing was wet and there was quite a high surf but we all got ashore safely, although a bit wet. Boots and waterproof pants work wonders. The day was picture post card perfect. 50 degrees and bright sunshine and no wind. I wore my light windbreaker and ended up taking that off and rolling up my sleeves. The beach was full of the locals of all ages, and little children everywhere. They were taking pictures of US it was so much fun. All the locals were so nice and welcoming. We were free to wander anywhere. There is a nice school with 32 children enrolled from Kindergarten to 12th grade. Two local very small stores with basic supplies. There is a clinic that is being updated to include running water. The only places with running water are the teacher’s house, the laundry, and I might have missed one! The homes do NOT have running water. They collect their water from local streams. In the winter time they buy water from the laundry at 25 cents a gallon.

The locals acted as guides and were so open about their community, customs and lives. We ended with a group of teenagers and one girl I think was a little bit older. They were all about 19 years of age and just finished high school. Their lives, the issues, (not enough young men to whom they are not related) wanting children, the pride in their way of life. This was one of the most fascinating days I have ever had in my travels. Today has me very excited about the upcoming trips on Narwal and also on Sumo. I love animals but seeing natural cultures living such different lives in their own environment is really a special honor. These are subsistence living communities. I could write pages about all the fascinating things I heard and saw today.
They did a dance performance for us (3 girls and four men with their drums) and there was one tiny little girl who wanted in the dance. She could not have been older than 2 and she was trying so hard to dance like the big girls. Absolutely darling. Then there was an 81 year old woman who was smiling and laughing and having the time of her life.

This was an incredibly special visit, there was a sign in the local store saying we were coming and to welcome us on shore and I think almost the whole village turned up.

When I think back to that depressing Russian town that we were docked at for the day and then the experience we had this morning no doubt in my mind this ended up being a wonderful outcome.

The swimmers were there but the South Africans had left for Little Diomede. The Russians were still in Wales and were going to be transported by helicopter. But the helicopter had technical difficulties so they are now on board with us hitching a ride to Little Doimede.

So now after a lunch of big fried shrimp, lamb chops, cauliflower au gratin and other yummy items we are on our way to Little Diomede. This is a small island with very steep cliffs straight into the water. There is only one tiny spot that a human could live and there are 75 people there. In the winter time they ice is so thick they carve out a landing strip for planes for some essential supplies. When I saw the google earth pictures last night I could not believe what I saw. So we are all set for another adventure.

Helen and Rachel, I love the Helen's and Steve. We have enjoyed them so much I have been told I am now an honorary Helen NUMBER FOUR. I consider that an honor!

Ken is working on pictures I am sure he has some good ones.