Silver Shadow, Barbados-Fort Lauderdale, Dec. 12-21, 2006

Flights:

We left the evening of December 9, America West/USAir from Palm Springs to Phoenix, met up with our friends from Phoenix, then took a redeye to JFK (our first time to New York!). We had about a five-hour layover, so we had to claim our baggage and check in to our next flight, which was on American, to BGI. We had used miles to upgrade to first class. USAir’s domestic first class seats are really no better than coach, except they are leather. Legroom is nonexistent, and service was abysmal. American’s international business class was MUCH better, with seats similar to business class on Air Tahiti - 62” pitch, leg rests, and very good service. We were able to get some much-needed rest on this flight. All flights were on time and our luggage was not lost or damaged, so we were very happy.

On the way home, on our Fort Lauderdale to Phoenix flight (also in “their version” of first class), the flight attendant brought me the wrong meal, and they had run out of what I’d ordered after they’d served everyone else, so I asked if I could have the cheese/fruit/cracker ensemble that I’d seen for-purchase in the magazine, and he said, “That’ll be five dollars.” Wow, nice customer service. All of that was quickly forgotten when a stench filled the air (something was obviously burning) and it could not be identified. The crew seemed fairly calm, but you know when they are announcing, “Ladies, do NOT leave your purse in your lap, please stow it under the seat, leave your lap clear” and “we are anticipating a normal landing” – it can’t be good. Our approach into Phoenix was one that our friend Scott said is NEVER taken (he flies out of there on a weekly basis). Fire trucks met the plane on the runway and TSA bounded down the jetway as soon as we arrived. Greg and I agreed that it was a good thing those vodka cranberries were going down well, because we’d have been scared to death if we’d have been sober!

Pre-Cruise Stay:

We spent 2 nights at the Crystal Cove (all inclusive resort) Barbados, where we met up with the last two couples we were to be joining. The resort has a lovely tiered swimming pool with a really neat “cave bar” and great beach, but the food left a lot to be desired, and the rooms were very basic. Towels were scarce, and we gave up asking for them. The included alcohols were brands I have never heard of, with the exception of Campari, so I drank only that and the local beer. For the price we paid ($772 total including taxes for 2 nights, prepaid through Expedia back in July), we would never return.

Embarkation on the Silver Shadow:

Three of our four couples had opted for early embarkation. We were able to pile ourselves and all our luggage into the same taxi, and were pleased to find that the port was only a 10-minute ride from the Crystal Cove. The port was busier than we anticipated, and it took us awhile to find an available porter to assist us with getting our luggage to the ship. We boarded the Shadow at about 10:50am. None of our suites were ready immediately upon arrival, but we didn’t mind, as we were finally on board and sipping our welcome glass of champagne. One of the couples we were with, we had met on our very first cruise on the Silver Wind in April 2004. The other couple were friends of our friends. We got along so well and they made our entire experience that much better.

Our suites were ready after about a 10-15 minute wait.

Suite:

We booked #701, a Grand Suite, which was a once-in-a-lifetime treat to ourselves after the particularly rough year we have had. In the face of adversity, we decided we still need to live our lives (“damn the torpedoes”). It did help that at the time of booking, the suite was 50% off. We are glad we had the chance to experience this, as now Silversea has changed their pricing policy so that any suite above a Midship Verandah will not be discounted above 20% (as a rule).

There are 4 Grand Suites (601, 701, 801 and 802), all located at the front of the ship, and they vary in size. We chose the suite with the largest square footage that we felt would still have the best view out of the forward windows. 701’s 1-bedroom configuration is 1,090 square feet (980 s/f indoor plus 110 s/f balcony).

Upon entering, there is a spacious hardwood-floored foyer with a mirror and table. There are also three large closets (where we stored our empty suitcases during the cruise) and a powder room (with toilet and sink only) in the foyer. There is a door that closes off the foyer from the main living area. Immediately upon entering the living area is a beautiful hardwood and granite bar complete with three upholstered bar stools & lots of cabinetry and includes a refrigerator, Lavazza espresso maker, and all the “main staple” liquors and wines – Johnny Walker Black, Bombay Sapphire gin, Belvidere vodka, Remy Martin VSOP cognac, Robert Mondavi red and white wines, and then all the necessary kinds of glasses, stirrers, cloth cocktail napkins, martini shaker, etc. We also had the usual welcome bottle of house champagne (still Perrier Jouet Grand Brut) and also a champagne bucket & stand set. They really do set you up nicely if you like to entertain. We had requested a bottle of Kettel One vodka, Captain Morgan’s Spiced Rum, Myer’s Dark Rum, Miller Lite and Diet Coke and also received these in addition to the standard bar setup.

Beyond the bar is the living area, which includes a sleeper sofa, two chairs and a large coffee table. There is also a lounger which is positioned perfectly to watch the (40” ?) plasma TV. Under the TV is a state-of-the-art Bang & Olufsen system with CD and DVD players. There is a four-person dining room set with a gorgeous arrangement of tropical flowers. There is also a large executive desk just outside the entrance to the bedroom. There are sliders out to the balcony along with a large picture window next to the dining room set, so we had panoramic views out the side. On the balcony were two lounge chairs (which always contained beach towels no matter what the weather) and a table.

The living area can be closed off completely to the bedroom area. The bedroom has a standard queen-sized bed with two end tables, a large vanity with the usual magnifying mirror, and endless cabinet space beneath the two curtained, forward-facing windows. A second TV sits beneath the windows. There is a large walk-in closet to the left of the windows. Again, this can be closed off entirely to the rest of the suite. The closet had an endless supply of hangers, a chest of drawers and electronic safe. The main bathroom has a large Jacuzzi tub, corner shower, and double sinks. Beyond this is the water closet which has a toilet, bidet, and another sink.

There are telephones in the living area, bedroom and main bathroom.

This suite was magnificent. We loved looking out the forward windows and being able to see where we were going. The only disappointment (which is pretty minor) was, the shower was still the same size as the Silver and Verandah suites we’d had in the past. It didn’t seem to fit in proportion to the rest of the massive suite. I was still hitting my gangly elbows on the sides of the shower.

Extra perks that come with the Grand Suite include a large box of Godiva chocolates, daily afternoon canapés, complimentary laundry (but no dry cleaning or press-only) and butler service. Our butler, Duminda (from Sri Lanka), was awesome. It was evident he’d gone through the Guild of Professional English Butlers training, the whole nine yards. He was always there when you needed him, but never “in the way”. He was a mind reader!

One evening we requested a cocktail party in our suite. I told Duminda there would be about 10 of us. He converted our dining room table into a banquet, complete with a flower arrangement, hot and cold hors d’oeurves, mixed nuts, and potato chips. He placed an additional tray of canapés on the coffee table. He brought a tray of assorted glasses, an extra bottle of champagne on ice, and cocktail “extras” (olives & onions for the martinis). We only held one “formal” cocktail party but wished we’d done it more often. It was superb!!!

Still, it was convenient at any time to have friends over for a drink (sans the canapés and fancy setup). And we did take advantage of this a few times.

Dining:

We had dinner at La Terrazza (reservations-only) one time. It is true that it’s difficult to get reservations for, as they have only 50 guests and 5 servers. We went on lobster night and were definitely NOT disappointed. The remaining nights we had dinner in the main Restaurant and for the most part, the food was excellent. There were a couple of so-so meals (the veal on the last night was very stringy, and Greg said one night the striploin was not very good); however, when they were on, they were ON. We gorged ourselves on filet mignon that was fall-out-of-your-chair delectable. The Beef Wellington was good, but the truffle surrounding it was larger than the piece of beef. The pastas were phenomenal. I could eat pasta every day of my life, so I was in heaven. Silversea has kind of “reorganized” their dinner menu. On the left are the four courses that the chef recommends each night, and then on the right are (1) a selection of appetizers; (2) an “intermezzo”, which can be either a salad, soup, or pasta dish; then (3) the main entrée. The dessert menu is brought out at meal’s end, like before. I was a little disappointed they don’t list a sorbet prior to the main entrée anymore; however, I’m sure you could get it if you requested it (it is always on the dessert menu). Just nice to have a palate cleanser, you know? And the way they combined the salads, soups and pastas into one course was a little confusing.

Service was very friendly and attentive, although the later you arrive, the slower the pace. Which is completely understandable. One night, we’d arrived for dinner around 8:45. At the end of dinner, it was nearly 10:30 (which we didn’t realize, we were having too much fun)…when Greg ordered coffee, he didn’t receive it…didn’t receive it…didn’t receive it. Finally, it came out and we realized why – they had to make a fresh pot for him, as the dinner hours had long been over.

We had one lunch in the main restaurant (day of embarkation) which was superb. The others, we ate at the pool grill which has improved IMMENSELY since our last Silversea cruise. On the menu are cold appetizers (shrimp cocktail, Greek tartare, and a guacamole/crab meat mix), burgers (which everyone raved about, but I didn’t try), several hot dog variations, paninis, fish sandwiches, etc. AND…pizza. Their pizzas have undergone a major facelift since our last cruise and are very, very good now (most notably the crust).

We had breakfast in the suite each morning (we hung the breakfast card on the door the night before), with the exception of the day of disembarkation, which we had in the main restaurant. The food and service was excellent there this time around (we’ve been virtually ignored in there on past cruises!)

Room service was always early (I learned to mark 9:00-9:30am if we wanted it at 8:45), and was served by our butler. He would always confirm our order with us before he left.

Now…I have to give Silversea BIG PROPS for something. They have redesigned their room service breakfast card. On the front, you write your name, suite number and the time you wish to have breakfast. Open the card, and each side of the card has a spot for your own choices. You write your name at the top and make your selections; your companion does the same on the opposite side. This way, you each get only what you ordered. The old way, we used to get two of everything, as it was confusing to the staff who was ordering what. Another great thing is, they have added more breakfast items to the menu. It’s endless. This is definitely the biggest improvement I saw on Silversea – they were listening to us!!!

Housekeeping:

I almost forgot to include this subject, because housekeeping on Silversea has always been A-1, top notch. This cruise was definitely no exception.

The Casino:

Like with Kim’s cruise, the Texas Hold’em electronic table sat empty for the first several nights. They were offering “lessons” at first in order to hold a tournament later. I never did see many people on the table, just a handful. Every machine and every table looked brand-new. We played blackjack with our friends most nights. It was the first time we have ever played “officially”, with our own money, and we had such a blast. We ended up even on the week, which I consider a gain! One of our friends did very well (I think he was up $3500 overall!). The casino staff was so pleasant, which made for a much better experience, even if losing! And our ever-faithful bartender, Justin – bless his heart – would automatically have a tray with Miller Lites for Greg, Dave and Scott; cham-chams (champagne & Chambord) for Shannon & I; and chardonnay for Julie before we even sat down at a table.

Ports:

Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines: None of the Silversea sponsored tours appealed to us, so we just decided to explore the island ourselves. We walked on the skinny road (barely able to fit one car, let alone two) up to the fort. Bequia is wonderfully underpopulated. After trekking up & down the steep hill, we stopped at a quaint bar/restaurant and enjoyed their local beer, Hairoun.

Grenada: Since we have been there twice in the last two years, we opted to stay on the ship and spent the day poolside.

Fort de France, Martinique: Martinique is GORGEOUS. We were not prepared for its diverse beauty. We booked a tour through Silversea, the “Off Road 4x4 Adventure”. All of climbed into several new Nissan Pathfinders (4 or 6 passengers to a car) and proceeded through the (surprisingly large city of) Fort de France, then off-road, deep into the rain forest. I would NOT recommend this for anyone who is prone to motion sickness or has a bad back or other ailments, as you definitely bounce around a LOT on this tour. We drove through small streams and took the windiest roads I’ve ever experienced (all the while holding our breaths that another car would not be coming around the corner). We stopped several places along the way, including an expansive banana plantation, a refreshing waterfall, and a rum distillery (where we took a tour and sampled the rum). We are kicking ourselves for not bringing our water shoes along, because we knew we were going to do this tour which included a swim at the base of a waterfall. We tried to get in but the rocks were just too uncomfortable on our feet. That’s my biggest regret, not bringing the water shoes we still had from our Paul Gauguin cruise!!!

I can say this after our experience: Martinique has been added to my list of favorite Caribbean islands (St. Bart’s and Virgin Gorda are the other two).

Gustavia, St. Bart’s: We have been to St. Bart’s on a prior cruise, and fell in love. It was every bit as beautiful as the last time, except this time, being the holiday season, there were LOTS more of those million dollar yachts in the harbor. We took a walk around to the back side of the harbor and discovered a wonderfully quiet neighborhood with brick roads, large homes and small businesses & restaurants. We were the only people around as we hiked up one of the streets that leads up to the fort. We wanted to take a picture of all those yachts lined up in the bay. We got a pretty good shot, then it rained on us!

Later, we met up with our friends and took a taxi to Nikki Beach Club for some cocktails. It was a short but steep ride over the hills and past the small swanky airport. Nikki Beach Club is a laid-back place with unbeatable views, and is across the cove from (supposedly) the best hotel on St. Bart’s – Eden Rock. Alas, we didn’t see any celebrities, but there was a photograph shoot going on on the beach with a small, beautiful child who will probably become “someone” “someday”. LOL!

San Juan, Puerto Rico: We were quickly reminded why we don’t like to have any US ports on our itinerary. We’ve done this before: you have to wake up early and present yourselves and your passports to the US customs officers who have come onboard. Additionally, Silversea drains the pool, as there is a chance the officers will inspect the rest of the ship. They evidently don’t want to have the pool water inspected. (Is this a good or a bad thing?) Greg has been to Puerto Rico a number of times on business, and he was never too crazy about it, so I took his word and on our prior cruises where San Juan was a stop, we didn’t leave the ship. This time we decided we might be able to find a place to watch some NFL games (we’d already missed the prior week’s games and were now jonesing for it). I was pleasantly surprised by San Juan – as we walked around, I thought, “I like this!” We found a great hangout - the Old Harbor Brewery. It was fun to sample their beers (five of their own microbrews) and talk with the locals while watching the scores.

Samana, Dominican Republic: This little town is very new to tourism. A long park/walkway spans the shore and is dotted with park benches. A row of shops are currently being constructed which are being painted in various pastels and align the main road. We stopped at a local bar/restaurant and split a local beer, Presidente (22 ounce bottle for only $3 US!).

Grand Turk, Turks & Caicos: Now THIS was right up our alley. The ship docks at an area which was specifically constructed for us cruise ship guests. It contains a huge beach complete with loungers, cabanas (for rent), TONS of duty-free shops (I would rather call it a small, spread-out outdoor mall), and most importantly, a Margaritaville. A HUGE, only months-old Margaritaville with a LARGE pool, swim-up pool bar and countless loungers. Luckily we got there early, as the place filled up with the arrival of another ship (this one mass market - ugh). We had enjoyed plenty of Jimmy Buffet tunes while soaking up the sun, carousing in the pool and chatting up the bartenders, who had come from Jamaica’s Sangster Airport Margaritaville to “show the ropes” to the newbies at this new Turks & Caicos store. As more and more guests filed in, the atmosphere turned to “party”. The Margaritaville waitstaff started a beer drinking contest, then a scavenger hunt for the children. We left pretty quickly. I am not knocking it, just not our scene.

Our last day was at sea, which was nice because we were able to spend one last day with all our friends in one spot. This was a truly cherished experience for us, traveling with three other couples – and then the real surprise came when, on embarkation day, we walked onto the pool deck to see another couple we’d befriended from our last cruise (November 2005). Two of the couples we were with knew this other couple as well, but none of us knew this couple would be on the cruise! We couldn’t have scripted it better. Also, upon walking into the Restaurant for lunch on embarkation day, I saw the back of someone’s head who I KNEW looked familiar…I walked by her and sure enough, it was Agnes from the Paul Gauguin! That first day was just plain over the TOP. We were just ecstatic.

Disembarkation:

Came too soon, as always. You are asked to vacate your suite by 8:30am. The doorbell rang at 8:00, and I felt a little irritated until I opened the door to Duminda, who had brought our passports so we wouldn’t have to fetch them later. Nice touch. We begged him to come home with us J, but he was understandably anxious to get back to Sri Lanka after being on the ship for 5 months.

Overall:

It was such a bonus to be on an itinerary that was leading up to the world cruise. This way, we had Silversea’s very best staff, and we recognized so many of them from our prior three Silversea cruises. You just wish you could take them home with you!!!

Everywhere we went, we were called by name. I don’t remember seeing any staff without a smile on their face.

The ship was in great shape, very clean, nothing tattered nor run-down looking. It was, of course, decorated beautifully for Christmas. The reception area had several very large and elaborately frosted gingerbread houses, so every time you walked through, you’d experience that wonderful aroma which reminds you of Christmas at home.

I love the subtle improvements Silversea has made:

· The breakfast card redesign which I already mentioned
· The pizzas at the pool grill (which are also on the room service menu)
· The main bar now has a comprehensive drink menu (which contains four signature drinks – appropriately named the Wind, Cloud, Shadow and Whisper)
· Tasteful folded cloth cocktail napkins have replaced paper ones (complete with embroidered Silversea insignia). I love those small touches!
· The room service menu has been expanded to almost twice the size! I only wish I’d have somehow copied it down, but I forgot to. The one item they have which I could have lived on was the tomato basil soup. Yummm!!!

Please feel free to ask any questions, and we’ll be posting pictures soon.

It was great meeting you guys too, and it sounds like you had a great time. Having not been on Silversea we couldn't compare to anything prior, but have to agree the pizzas and pool food were exquisite and at least the room service menu is easy to fill out, and we got the right food (as opposed to The Terrace). Let us know what you think of the pics. Take care, Jeff

Great review, Kristin! Thanks for posting that ...

Masaki

Kristin, thanks for taking the time, wonderful review that reflects your SS passion...r/wes

Kristin, thanks for the detailed report.

It seems about 2/3 of what you mentioned had already been implemented by our cruise but not all.

How great to have someone actually do breakfast by the person. We usually have the opposite problem where if we write down 2 of something, we get one.

On our cruise, the pizza was crisp and fabulous. I hope they kept that the same. I love thin pizza, and the SS pizza I had was the best I have ever had at a non pizza place.

I am not happy about the sorbet thing. I will be trying to remember to ask for it.

Did you try the pours at night? How were they? How were the soups? The sauces? Were things bland or flavorful overall? I really like the sound of the improved poolside food. Although I have heard the burgers are the best anywhere, I was not ever wanting one and would have eaten at pool if there was sometihng else.

Our last cruise and upcoming one are San Juan to San Juan, and I found lots of ethnic restaurants. We are having to arrive a day early to make our cruise in March, and we are staying across the street at Sheraton since it will still by probably 5:30 or 6 when we get there. I hope to try one of those restaurants and report back here.

It sounds like you had a fabulous time and that you enjoyed everything to the fullest.

Debbie, don't know if you had a chance to look at our review also, but I can reply to some of your questions. We thought most of the everynight pours were very good, and if we didn't like them they were happy to bring us a wine we preferred. The pasta fagiole (Italian bean soup)at La Terraza was excellent, the consomme was too salty. The sauces with the chicken and beef dishes were very good. It was hit and miss with the fish and other dishes. Overall, the food was good, the meat prepared the way we requested and the sauces mostly on the money. A couple of times the waiter brought us sorbet without requesting, but otherwise you will have to order it ahead of time. Also, the way the menu is organized may be confusing, in that it appears they want you to only order 3 items, when you could have a full 5 course meal, by selecting whatever you want. Take care, Jeff

I agree with what Jeff said about the menu, it's confusing. They used to section it clearly with appetizer choices, soup, salad, pasta, and main entree. Now they combine the soup/salad/pasta into one section. There were a few times when those in our group wanted pasta but not as the main course, and they served a perfectly small portion.

Debbie, I know you are a "soup" person like I am, and you will not be disappointed (if the Wind follows the same as the Shadow). The tomato basil bisque from room service was superb. At dinner were creamy crab & corn chowder, rich lobster bisque, squash with herb (reminiscent of the Jamaican pumpkin soup we all know and love), curried cream of clams with apple, red pepper veloute, and cauliflower & parmesan veloute.

I like my food spicy, and I felt that the dishes for the most part were flavored well. When you order, don't be afraid to ask for more spice - I bet the chef would be thrilled.

The wines were very good overall. We shy away from chardonnay, so whenever they approached us with it, we ordered something else. Our highlight was a South African Sauvignon Blanc which came from Hermanus (I think it was called Southern Right, had a whale on the bottle). Not only was it our best tasting white of the cruise, but it also reminded us of what's to come on our visit to Hermanus while on ROAR 2!

Our at-home favorite, Pinot Grigio, was readily available even at the pool bar (and it was the good stuff-Santa Margherita). I enjoyed a glass of that with my pizza when we ate poolside.

Kristin, thanks for your review. Your suite sounds wonderful! It's great that you splurged a bit.

Dena

Thanks, Kristin and Jeff. I had a couple of the soups you mentioned last cruise, and they were great. On our cruise, the soup and salad were already together, and maybe they were with appetizer or the pasta. I think it was 3 courses. We ordered 5 courses anyway. I think the sorbet should be automatic, but I will make a point to remember.

Yes, I love my soups. That is one thing I don't like about some of the bbqs (other than general hate for bbq's) and group dinners.

How are the venetian society events? Do they still have them?

Jeff. I will look for your review. I've had a week of holiday company. I'm anxious to look at it.

Debbie, believe SS's venetian event is one area where they can improve vs. Regent. On our November cruise, the venetian event was held in the show lounge on deck six--thus, everyone was forced to sit in the theater chairs as the wait staff served drinks/appetizers. Very formal, not much chance to mingle. Regent on the other hand is a stand up affair which inspires mingling. Could be the size of the group dictated the venue...in any case, we preferred the SSS party vs. the Venetian. r/wes

Wes, RSSC also had the SSS party in the show lounge on the Navigator during on our SAND cruise. Maybe they just changed it.

It has been in the show lounge on my past several cruises, as there is no other venue large enough for all the repeat passengers. A few years ago, I think I remember it being in Stars Lounge on Mariner.

Kristin: Fantastic review!!! I love your suite story - good for you!!!!! Joanna

:) Joanna, well, these opportunities don't come along often, we just BITE immediately when they do.

COlonelWes, this sounds like another thing like the captain's party where people are just shoved in a room for an hour??? Oh, well. We are just looking forward to the whole return experience. I am getting antsy. We usually go away over the holidays, but we traveled too much in October. Now I have the fever and just love to see my trip ticker going down! I'm anticipating our 60 days so that we can make some more plans.

Kristin, with so many of the 2008 trips being so high right now and even the "terrace" carrying a premium, it is great that you took advantage of the good fares and jumped on that suite. I'm hoping with the high prices (which, of course may come down) we see an excellent level of service.

Photos are now posted in the Pictures forum for anyone who interested.

Excellent review, Kristin! Way-to-go, booking a Grand Suite @ 50%.

Fantastic review, Kristin! I enjoyed reading with my coffee this morning :)

Your experience on Grand Turk was a bit different than ours, we were the only ship and I bet there was less than 10 of us on the island, lol.

Thanks, Michele and Karen! And Happy New Year!

Kristin:

Yep, I drooled over the photos while looking out the window and seeing gray sky and rain here in Cleveland.

By the way, I saw picture of you and perhaps the moderators will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe one must be 22 years of age or older to post on this board.

Just as info. ;)

Cheers! Ray

That's what I thought Ray!!!! Kristin do you have your driver's license???? Beautiful suite and beautiful occupant

Oh you two!!!!! (blushing) You are great for my ego!!!

Thanks for the great review Kristin. Sounds like you had a great time, and how fun to treat yourselves to a special suite, it sounded fantastic.

Thanks for the wonderful review, Kristin! I can't wait to see your photos!

Andrea