Starting a new thread for Narwhal Sea Mail. Some have left for Copenhagen and the rest will be leaving today. We fly out today at 3.00 pm and Russ and Susan are on our flights from DFW to CPH so looking forward to seeing them in the airport lounge.

Packing was a challenge for everyone. 23 days with one self service laundry that will be in great demand OR pay for laundry. So of course we took more clothes than we normally would to cut down on the necessity for laundry. Hopefully only have to do laundry one time. Then you have all the cold weather stuff, hats, gloves, etc it all adds up. On a regular cruise you run out of a toiletry item, no problem just visit a local store. Not happening on this cruise. So the entire process was a bit more complicated.

Air Greenland was the problem with the weight from CPH to Greenland. I think these are the heaviest bags we have ever had but we are under the 44lb limit for one checked bag each and "pushing" but can make it on the one piece of carryon at 18lb. Camera around Kens neck, some electronic items in pockets - where there is a will there is a way.

After all this we will probably get there and the carry on bags wont even be weighed!

It is an airbus 330 so not a small plane but I bet it carries a lot of freight. On our flight from Nome to Anchorage a large part of the forward section of the plane was for Cargo. So not much room for passengers.

Not sure how much posting will be done I have been told the internet will be fine initially, then get very "spotty" and then fine again at the end. I will try and write up a little each day even if I cannot post it. On these adventure trips if you don't do it right away it is amazing how much you forget. Of course some big card players on this trip so may not be that much spare time. How can I write and beat Marc and Ralph at cards at the same time. IMPOSSIBLE cant beat them when I am not writing.

Bon Voyage to all! Have a wonderful trip!

Have a fabulous trip everyone.

We are safely ensconced in the Crown Room at Atlanta. Uneventful drive from Huntsville to Atlanta. Since all flights except Air Greenland are on Delta or Partners, we have tons of free luggage allowance; however, that 44lbs checked and 18lbs carryon with Air Greenland is a problem. One of our checked bags is 47 so might have to take binoculars out and camera out of one of the carry on bags. I will try to take on computer bag in addition to carryon but prepared for Plan B. I will give the agent 10 pounds of pencils and tell them they're robbing the school kids.

See everyone tomorrow!

This is exciting!! Bon voyage, Narwhalians!

We are at DWF after a great lunch with Pricilla and John.
Let the fun begin

I feel your pain Ngaire! We were up last night looking on the website for what items we could "carry on our person" thus meeting the 18 Lb limit.


We are sitting in ATL and I am "practicing" my hearts game on my computer!

Have a fantastic trip -- can't wait for the sea mail. Hope you see a
Narwhat and better yet, get a picture of it.

Bon voyage, Narwhal-ers!!! John and I had a wonderful catchup lunch today with Russ and Susan in Grapevine, close to the airport, on their way to their flight. Have a great time, you two, and we will be watching for photos.

Arlene and Marc, we miss you guys and wish you a fantastic time on this fabulous trip! Wish we could stow away in those 44-pound suitcases. Oh well ....

And Ngaire and Ken, have a great time too. You always do! I will be watching for seamail as you find possible. Hugs to all!!!

Arlene in business.

Marc in coach.

Both suitcases are in the hold.

Life is good.

Thanks Priscilla. We sure wish we could have joined you for lunch.

Have a wonderful trip everyone! Wish we were there but will have to wait for Sumo.

Ngaire, on the way back from Greenland last year on the Greenland to Copenhagen charter on Air Greenland, they didn't even weigh our bags separately as far as I can remember.

I, too, am eagerly awaiting the sea mail. This looks like a fabulous trip!

Brayden and I are in the new star alliance lounge at the lax Bradley terminal. Our flight leaves in a little over an hour. The new lounge is very very nice by the way. Very spacious and very comfortable.

Finally we are on our way.

Hi Narwhalians!
So happy to see this cruise has finally arrived. Enjoyed Brad and Leslie's trip last year and now it's your time. I know this is one desired cruise I will never get to do, so...............Sending wishes that you get to see and do all that you want.. Happy Adventures.

Like carman, I have been eagerly awaiting this trip........ for a long, long time! Ngaire, maybe you can save some snippets with a date, and mail when you can. I would not even attempt to beat anyone any game of cards, let alone Marc or Ralph, not even War. My expectations of pictures have been lowered .

Made it to Amsterdam! A short wait for our flight and then a quick flight to Copenhagen. Looking forward to seeing everyone later today.

edited to add:

Now in hotel in Copenhagen; just relaxing before the gang arrives. Found out bags need to be out at 530 tomorrow so don't know when we will get a good night's sleep.

Tony, I will try to find a Heidi photo-op for you.

Brayden and I have made it to Munich. We connect to CPH in about 2 hours. This is a very nice airport these days. Flight was good , got some sleep as did Brayden.

Not surprised about the bags needing to be out at 5:30am . Sort of expected that. As our flight is at 9am I would also guess we are off to the airport not later than about 6:30, maybe a tad later.

Looking forward to see all . May try to stop by and say hello tonight but not sure how late we will get in. Ngaire knows our schedule.

Very exciting! Can't wait to hear all about it!

Me, too!

Me three! :)

This is soooo exciting....
I'm still trying to figure out their pre-cruise hotel in Copenhagen yet they board the Silver Explorer in
Kangerlussuaq, Greenland.??

I need a geography lesson.

Just saw a lot of the gang at the Kangerlussuaq airport, as I warmed up the Explorer for them the past 12 days. Everyone looked wonderful as they headed off for a 2 hour bus tour before they board the ship. They are in for a great time as I felt the food is even better than it was 2 years ago on Zodiac, and of course the staff was fantastic.

Marcie, the charter flight to get to kangerlussauq is from Copenhagen since Greenland is a Danish territory. We had to fly from Kangerlussaug to Copenhagen then back to the US last year at the end of our cruise. A circuitous route. There was a group on that cruise who chartered their own flight back to canada rather than do that.

Thanks Rachel....now I get it.

One of the "Helens" referred to in Ngaire's earlier sea mail did that: chartered a plane to take her and her friend from Greenland to Minnesota rather than fly to Copenhagen and back to the US. I did not have the nerve to ask what THAT cost!
Wishing all a wonderful trip! Sounds like the Explorer will be well-warmed up for us, Rachel.
--------------------
Helen

We will rock the boat, Helen!

waiting, waiting, almost round the clock for words from NARWAL!

Arrival in Copenhagen and Kangerlussuaq

We got to the hotel in Copenhagen about 4.30 pm. A quick freshen up made us feel like new and we met 10 of the group to go to dinner. We ended up at an Italian restaurant where they whipped up a big table for us and the food was great. Everyone cleaned their plates. Then off to bed as we had to have bags out at 5.30 am.

At 6.00 pm we met in the lobby, drank our coffee and got our breakfast box and then off to the airport. Lots of people had overweight luggage and some of the couples in our group had to pay extra. I think in the $100 to $200 price range. At first one couple was quoted $800!! The girl behind the counter was calculating it incorrectly. All that behind us we boarded our plan an Airbus wide body. It was totally full. A four and a half hour flight. They served a hot breakfast and came through with drinks twice.

We left Copenhagen approximately 9.30 am and arrived Kangerlussuaq at 9.30 am so we gained those four and a half hours back. Once we arrived it was a bit of a mess. You arrive on one level then you have to walk downstairs to get the luggage. This is a very small area and with so many people we were like sardines in a can. Once we retrieved the luggage they had two guys to help carry it upstairs. Not a very efficient system.

We all managed to get on the same bus and of course the ship was not ready for us so we said we would be taking a two to three hour tour. Well the problem is there is not enough in Kangerlussuaq to do for two or three hours. It is a pretty small place but was interesting in the remoteness and simplicity of the town. We saw a muskox in a field from a long distance, closer then Nome but still a long way. Then we drove up a mountain as our little bus strained I felt I was living the children’s story of the “little engine that could – I think I can, I think I can”

The day was a bit cold and really windy. We made various stops around the island. Highlights were a muskox at a pretty far distance, a mountain top where you could see the permanent ice cap that was about 20 kilometers away. A lake, another view point and a group of Greenland dogs. The dogs were interesting and there was one very long haired HUGE dog that we all enjoyed. He almost posed for the camera. We were all back in the bus fairly quickly as we went to different areas on the island. I think the favorite stop was back to the airport for a bathroom break, particularly some of the ladies did not get to use the facilities at the airport.

Then we headed for the pier to catch the zodiac to the ship. The driver told us we have a choice as the ship is still not ready for us yet. We could go to another overlook or go to the pier and wait in the bus. A loud chorus said “to the pier”. When we arrived the staff were there and we were the first ones to the get to the ship. It was so nice to get onboard and check in was quick. A nice lunch, unpacking, the life boat drill and we were finally feeling like we were on our way to this new adventure.

We had a recap at 5.30 pm where our expedition leader Stefan explained the ice conditions with the help of an ice chart, and what was still blocked at this time. He had lead 5 expeditions through the Northwest Passage. He said about three years ago there was NO ICE and they went way north just to show the passengers some ice. However this year is different there is a lot of ice. Dinner was good. I had great seafood stew of mussels, fish, crab and scallops. Then after a quick visit to the other tables we hit the sack. I checked the winds and they were 75 kilometers! The ship was rocking of course but at this point I think everyone was so tired after the flight to CPH and then the long day with an extra four hours up no one cared that much and we all just crashed.

so happy everyone is on board and the adventure has begun. I hope Ken took picture of the big dog....maybe a distant relative of my "Charlie" who you and Ken have met.
Hope the winds die down, that's never good. Let the heart games begin

George is loving hearing about the75 mph winds. And we are both jealous of you getting to see a musk ox as we looked everywhere for one in kangerlussauq with no luck. Even our guide was disappointed.

Is the Stefan who is the expedition leader the big tall German guy with dry sense of humor? If so, tell him Rachel and George from Oklahoma say hi.

Photos From Kangerlussuaq, Greenland:


The Airport and Town.


Mark enjoying the view.


Our Guide.




Leaving Kangerlussuaq.

SISIMUIT
We arrived in Sisimuit, Greenland to an overcast sky with no wind at all. This is the most Northern town with an ice free port all year. This town surprised me as it was more prosperous than I would have expected. Fishing is the key industry. Houses were very nice and all brightly painted and the entire town was very clean. Just over 5500 people and most are the descendants of Danish and Inuit people.

Our local guide was a delightful young lady who is studying at University and here visiting her parents for the summer. We walked the town and stopped at certain points where she answered a lot of questions. She was full of answers. Some of the interesting facts that I knew from before were about education. All schooling is free and University is also free in Greenland or any Nordic country. She gets a monthly allowance from the government that pays all costs including accommodation and some left over. No commitment to return to Greenland after graduation but she said most of the graduates do return home.

We visited a grocery store and found pricing just a little more than the pricing in the USA. They have small area with shops and museums. In one of the shops was a Narwhal Tusk and Ken took a picture.

They offered a tasting of local foods. The shrimp was really full of flavor. One of the expedition team told me it was because they cook the shrimp in salt water. They also offered whale, cod and a muskox soup. My new fascination with muskox I decided I had to try it. In reality it tasted like a beef broth, quite tasty.
It was a nice easy day and that is exactly what we needed after the last two travel days. Now an afternoon at sea and the start of the lecture program. The lectures are show live in the cabin, I really like that.


Photos from Sisimuit, Greenland:












Narwhal horn.

Ken, wonderful photos once again. Sisimuit is definitely a vibrant village. It could rival those colorful towns in Italy and the Med. Are the people Iniuit? I bet they loved having you all as visitors. And that Narwhal horn - scary. I still hope you all are able to see them in the wild. Looking forward to the next report.

Children in every part of the world are wonderful and Ken always captures them so well. Have a great time.

What gorgeous pictures Ken !! You really know how to capture it all.I LOVE seeing these and hearing all the stories.

Thank you, Ken! I really love LCT!!! When Alice and i flew from JFK to Hong Kong for PAGODA, we flew "over the top." But all we could see over Greenland was clouds snd the few breaks in the clouds was just bright white from snow. I love the duck photo.

Me too, but I'm still trying to figure out those "mirror photos!" And where the mirror starts! And the children, and Mark looks smaller than I remember him

So excited for all of you. Thanks so much for keeping us up to date, Ngaire and Ken!

Yesterday I had Ken use the internet to post his pictures first as i knew we could lose the internet at any moment. So I now just added the short write up above his pictures. The people are a mixture of the Danish and Inuit people.

Internet was off most of the afternoon. As we proceed I think it is going to be off more than on and a whole period with no internet as they have to change the satellite they use and we will not have ANY internet. So far no word on the new ice conditions from the expedition team.

Marc is walking and has lost a LOT of weight. He looks great.

Last night after dinner we had a big circle of people in the panorama lounge enjoying drinks. The weather was stunning. Brilliant sunshine and not a ripple in the sea.

I was told that the last trip we did to Antarctica was on the ships video. That was the one where we landed at Elephant Island that was a very rare event. Our expedition leader Robin West said he had NEVER been able to do that before. Two other ships were around us and none of them even attempted it but everyone who wanted to go from the Silver Explorer walked on Elephant Island.

So we decided since so many of those "lucky" people are here we will also see Narwhals on the trip and keep our luck going.

ILULISSAT

This morning we heard the bumping of the ice on the boat. We are sitting in brilliant sunshine, looking at ice and some big icebergs and hardly a ripple on the sea. It is stunning. Ken is out taking the picture of an large iceberg in the sun with the fog immediately behind.

Our problem is that the area near the Ilulisat is covered with fog and we cannot proceed until this clears. We can see it is visibly lifting so we are just waiting. Today the plan was to visit the town and also go out in a small local fishing boat to get closer to the big icebergs.

We were told this is the biggest glacier in the world. The Icebergs break off the glacier and then get caught in the fjord in front of the glacier due to an underwater moraine. As that ice pressure builds up big icebergs break over the top. It is those big icebergs we are going to visit in the local boat.

Hopefully I will be back with what actually happens today and more pictures.

Updating the previous post!

I forgot to mention we saw a Minke Whale that surfaced about three times close to the ship.

Well as the day progressed the fog did not lift around the land. Where the Silver Explorer was sitting it was beautiful. So the Captain decided to cruise around some of the bigger icebergs in the area. I believe that (with the exception of the tabular icebergs) these were the biggest glacial icebergs I have ever seen. So the morning was enjoyable.

The original plan was to use local boats from the town. These boats would have been closer to the glacier on the other side of the moraine that blocked the icebergs in the fjord. But the glacier would still have been a long way in the distance. Then in the afternoon visit the town that would probably have been very similar to the town we visited the day before. We had lunch and waited for further announcements. The expedition team decided to do a 45 minute zodiac ride around the icebergs.

This was a perfect situation as the day was truly stunning and the zodiac ride was fantastic. We picked up a lot of ice and Kathryn bought back her own supply of ice for martinis tonight. It was her husband Mau’s birthday so she presented him with a birthday present of a large piece of glass. We had a wonderful time and I really believe being in a zodiac close to the water was a far preferable situation to being a local larger boat that would have been crowded. So I think the changed day may have turned out better than the original plans.

Birthday celebration for Mau tonight so we are really looking forward to that as well.

Ken is working on pictures but not sure any will be able to be posted internet is constantly dropping off.

When in Greenland years ago we were told the Kayak was invented in Greenland - makes sense!

I love reading about this adventure! And of course seeing Ken's photos. Everything looks and sounds fascinating. Have fun, all!

Pictures are wonderful and bring back great memories! Today is George jr's birthday as well, but he won't get a glacier martini.

Internet is SO hard so I will just keep writing and maybe at some point I can post the write up.

I have not mentioned that our 2012 Antarctica video is playing constantly on a TV channel. Peter an expedition team member was on that Antarctica trip and he is on this trip as well. He said that was one of the best Antarctica trips ever. Perfect weather and everything went so well with the landing at Elephant Island being a highlight. He said he had not heard of another landing since then. It is great to watch. I just saw the part where we were playing cards in the zodiac, not really of course just for fun! Marc and Arlene seem to be in the video a lot. The best being at Salisbury Plains when everyone was in their red jackets and Marc and Arlene were in their regular coats so they really stood out.

Food has been good so far and the lobster was excellent. Anna who was on Regent for a long time is the dining room manager. We will get a picture of her before we get off I am sure many of you will recognize her.

TO GET THROUGH OR NOT GET THROUGH – THAT IS THE QUESTION!
At this evening’s recap we got the news that the area we need to get through WAS breaking up last week but has now PACKED in again. They are delaying our entry into the Northwest Passage by two days so we are making plans as we go. An icebreaker is heading down into that area now to judge the situation. The ice report shows the heavy ice in red and there is a lot of red on the map. However, he was confident we will get through. I cannot even imagine the Crystal ship even attempting this voyage without an ice strengthened hull. So we wait each day in anticipation of the next ice briefing. One thing for sure Silversea wants to get through as if they do not the next two voyages will not be impossible. Not something they want to have happen for sure. Marc has so much knowledge about the area he can ask the really pointed questions in the briefing. That is great!

So we are sailing right now to a town called Uummannaq, and we will be doing a landing in this remote area that revolves around Halibut Fishing. Then in the afternoon we are going to another landing on an island that is an abandoned coal mine area. He announced the name on the PA system but no way for me to even guess how to spell this name. On the way to these stops the icebergs have been great. So many different shapes. They are really beautiful.

Got interrupted active humpback whale on the starboard side announced. Will be back!

Wow I have seen a lot of whales in my travels including bubble feeding in Juneau. This is the MOST active whale I have ever seen. Three big breaches and so much pectoral fin slapping we could not keep count. Lots of fluking too. This went on for about 30 to 40 minutes with not much down time between activities. I assume that this is a teenage whale most likely a male with much energy to burn!

We just arrived at Uummannaq and it looks wonderful.
Many large icebergs all together. They float into this area and get stranded here. I am sure Ken will get some good pictures IF we can ever post them. Totally calm seas again barely a ripple in the water.

Uummannaq

Will this little town did not disappoint. Only 120 population and 14 children in the school average life expectancy 60 -65 years of age. Seal meat was drying. There as a tiny Lutheran church painted pale blue inside with two chandeliers and a ship hanging in-between. Not sure if the ship is always between two chandeliers but I was told the ship is traditional.

Lots of brightly colored houses, snowmobiles, and sleds. We walked over walkways and granite rocks to a lookout point where you could see the iceberg graveyard. With the blue water, colored houses, boats and icebergs in the harbor it was a pretty village.

There also many dogs, seems like every house had dogs. The dogs were on long chains but the puppies were roaming around. One of them just seemed happy to pose for us as much as we liked. There were also six puppies we estimated at two weeks old. So adorable!!

So I am being lazy this afternoon and decided not to go to the deserted town and coal mine. Ken went and he can tell me about it.

Not sure if he will get to post pictures internet has been off since yesterday morning and now it seems we have a signal but it is still cutting in and out. I was able to post as you know and I will try and post this as well.

Looking forward to hearing our ice update. As of yesterday 9/10th of the passage is blocked. Maybe we can creep through on the 1 /10th? Let’s hope for better news tonight.

Fingers crossed for good ice news! We have also seen whales bubble feeding in Juneau and that was truly impressive. Are the dogs pets or working animals? Hope Ken has puppy pictures!
--------------
Helen

Photos From Llulissat, Greenland:










Mau & Katherine.






Susan tasting the glacial ice.

Awesome pics. Is Anna going to still be onboard for Sumo? We just love her.

Rachel - Anna just recently returned from vacation so I imagine she will still be onboard.

Love Anna too - she was on our Reykjavik to Churchill cruise last year.

Hopefully that ice will resume breaking up - I imagine Silversea will figure out a way to get through - inch by inch!

Well we were looking at a wonderful town of brightly colored house that has a population of 1500. However the wind was strong and a bunch of BIG icebergs around the landing was cancelled.

So eight of us played cards - Brayden and Marc won again - what a surprise! We are about to go to a recap to hear the new plans and see what they team has in store for us now.

Ken may get to post some more pictures if this internet holds.

Love reading all about your trip and seeing the great photos, it looks so beautiful.

Is the Anna you're talking about named Anna Van Eeden? What a small world, she's terrific. Remember her well from WC's, Signatures, etc.

Yes Marcie, she is the same Anna we will try to post a photo.

Well I was confused. With the ice STILL packed on the latest ice report we are making plans day by day and things keep changing as to where we are going depending on the weather and sea conditions. Plan A, B, C etc. The plan is to stay in Greenland until the 16th when we will cross over to Canada.

The report I gave for Uummannaq yesterday was incorrect. I figured that out this morning when they told us we were at Uummannaq today and it looked quite different, so yesterday was actually Saqqaq. None of your would know the difference but I thought I would make the correction because those onboard sure would know!

So we could not land this morning due to the wind and waves at Uummannaq so we headed off to another town Ukkusissaat.
After lunch we landed at Ukkusissat and we had very calm seas. The little harbor was full of fishing boats. Three little girls were at our disembarkation point as we landed. Giggling at us of course. Compared to what we have seen it was pretty upscale. They actually had modern electric street lights over the rocky uneven wet “streets”. Again the brightly colored houses and we were able to recognize a kindergarten, school, clinic and a large building that was probably a town hall. We visited the church that was really nice inside with light pine wood for the entire inside of the church. Again the boat hanging between the chandeliers.

Some interesting facts. 21 school children and 5 teachers. 150 people and 450 dogs! Traditional costumes are stunning. Made of seal skin, delicate embroidery and beading. At Saqqaq we asked about unemployment rate. The answer was "one person" and he is too lazy to work.

During our one hour stroll we saw a lot of kids. Ken got some pictures of a little boy showing off his swing set skills. Linda and I found two little boys with three small puppies. By the time Ken caught up to me and Linda two of the puppies had left and one of the little boys went to get his camera to also take a picture of the remaining puppy. I think that action was actually to show off the fact that he had a camera. Ken got a shot of that too hope it turns out.

It was nice to get off the ship and wander around. All these small communities are alike and yet slightly different.

We are back at Uummannaq this morning. Windy and cold the weather forecast was wrong. So the brave among us, Ken, Russ, Chris and Linda are off ashore. I know that I am not going and Marc, Arlene, Susan and Ralph are not going either. We will play cards. Brayden is still asleep! Love to go ashore but not when it is this wet and cold. Now to see a Muskox up close I would brave anything!

We have internet now but Ken is ashore but hopefully he will get to post some pictures.

Wherever you are and whatever it's called.... I'm loving the reports and photos! Thank you very much!

Humpback Whale Photos:

Photos From Saqqaq, Greenland:








Seals drying for winter food.




Photos from here to the end of the post are from an evacuated mining town.


Chris is showing off his truck, it needs a little work.


Graveyard on the hill.


Linda posing for a photo.

What great photographs! I love the descriptions of the places that you have seen. Obviously, this is an itinerary where people need to be flexible. I wish that I was onboard with you to experience such unique places. I can't wait for the next update!

Photos From Ukkusissat, Greenland:


Ngaire & Susan.


Church.








Trying out his new camera.




Musk Ox Skin.

Photos From Uummannaq, Greenland:


A little choppy.












Check out those ears.


Jumping Rope at Recess.


Barbara made new friends.


Local Theater.

Seal Skin Seats.

The ship models hanging from church ceilings are fairly common in Scandinavia. We even saw one in a Scandinavian church in Honfleur, France.

WOW Ken! Just WOW! Amazing photos of such an interesting place. I find that village beautiful. If this is the ice in August, I can't imagine what it's like during the winter.

Fantastic pictures! I think that the weather looks refreshing!

Betty, I was thinking the same thing. No way I could live there in winter. I would die.

Love seeing all the pictures, especially the kids....they're so darn cute and the same all over the world when we take their picture. Hi Barbara & Tim...miss ya!

Thanks for all the great pictures Ken.

Nice to see a pic with Barbara, wish we would hear more from you and Tim!

Ken, thank you so much for all the sharing you do with your wonderful shots, for those of us at home. This would be the greatest cruise I could ever pick, all so new and loaded with unplanned adventure and who knows what will come next. At this point of my life, just what I would love. Wake up and see what happens!

Editing to agree with RachelG. No way could I ever live here. Especially if I had to depend on that dried seal meat for my protein. No. Never. Call me a wuss.

I could never live there either. I would starve before I could eat a seal or freeze before I could wear a seal skin coat. I sure would have loved going on this cruise though, and so many of my favorite people are on it.

Photos from the last port in Greenland. We are now in Pond Inlet, Canada and been without internet. We found a computer in the library in Pond Inlet.






An old friend of Arlene's.










Very colorful cemetery.

Dogs fighting over dinner.


THE WINNER!!


Polar Bear Fur.


Good Bye Greenland.

Love the pics! How is the ice situation?

Upernavik, Greenland
Our LAST stop in Greenland today. I think we are all excited to head in the direction of Canada. This town was MUCH bigger with 3000 people. It seemed like New York City after where we have been. Roads and large commercial trucks passing us as we walked from the harbor to the museum and church. There was a flattened area on the top of a mountain that was an airstrip. You could fly in here for a weekend!
I do not believe this is a normal cruise line stop. Since we had to fill in so much time here I think this was the only option. Not as quaint and as enjoyable as the other stops but it did show us a totally different type of town. There appeared to be a large hospital with an ambulance outside, a very large grocery and general store. This store had limited produce, but lots of frozen and canned products. The residents were buying hot dogs, pizza and pastries!
It was quite a walk to the museum and the old church. Once there we realized the town dump was right there. The museum would seem better suited in the main part of town? Of course they probably have few tourists but we did meet one tourist.
A very friendly lady came out of a small house and asked us why were in this town. She said she was so surprised to see all these tourists! There were about six of us there and we explained the situation, that we waiting for the Northwest Passage to clear and having to stop in many Greenland towns to go ashore. She was Swiss and on her holiday and had rented the cabin and kayak. She had planned on going further North but the weather was not good so she decided to vacation in this town. She was here to kayak and said she does not need a guide she does her own thing. We asked where she goes in the winter and she said Whistler, Canada. Believe me the contrast between Whistler and Upernavik is pretty extreme.
So I am back on board and ready for the day at sea tomorrow on the way to Canada and a new ice report. Of course we have Marc with us and he downloads and interprets the ice maps for us so we have our own private expedition leader! A pretty good thing! After a few minutes with Marc I had far more understanding than on the reports from the expedition leader.
CONTINUATION – ON THE WAY TO CANADA
Not able to post the above message as we lost internet as we started to cross to Canada.
Got a bit rough last night but I enjoy that it was SO cozy in bed I am just worry about others who have issues with rough water. It calmed down a bit this morning so we are moving around but it is not that bad. We all feel like we are on a new adventure now and really ready to arrive in Canada for the next stage of this cruise.

We have a corner where we can add a whole bunch of chairs and also spend time together for tea, pre and post dinner drinks and of course playing games. So it has become OUR corner. Some played cards and Marc and I played scrabble this morning. It was a nice relaxing morning.
The ship is doing some good things today. Lectures, a cooking demonstration, and trivia today at teatime and then another lecture.
Ice Issues: Recap is at 5.00 pm and since we have no internet we have no ice report from our personal expedition leader Marc. Sure hope it is breaking up and is starting to show some movement. The expedition leader still insists we will make it to Nome on September 1st. The ice charts make that look a bit difficult. Many guests keep trying to pin him down on HOW we will make it to Nome he just keeps saying he is confident we will make it. Maybe an ice breaker comes into play I think that would be fun. I guess time will tell.
Update on Ice: Bad news the ice has not broken up more in fact it has regressed and looks more blocked than before!
We are not sure when we will get internet back but we can go into the library in Pond Inlet, put a flash drive in USB on the local computers send out some emails and post this write up so that is how we are managing to give you this information.

They post the ice charts pretty much every day on this blog, although I'm not sure how to interpret it, other than red is bad, but I'm not sure what color they can crunch through.

The blog covers stories of different boats trying to make the transit. They aren't talking about the Silversea Explorer, but they did a post a couple of days ago on the Bremen, another cruise ship (sister to the Hanseatic), that plans to cruise part of the Northwest Passage and then sail back to Greenland. Today's post advocates Canadian icebreaker support and references:

"There are some 14 private yachts staged at east and west strategic anchorages looking to make a Northwest Passage transit. There is a tug towing a salvage barge from Norway enroute to salvage and transport Amundsen's ship named MAUD from Cambridge Bay back to her homeland of Norway. And lets not forget a commercial passenger cruise ship scheduled to transit the Passage from Pond Inlet to Cambridge Bay and then exit back to Greenland."

http://northwestpassage2014.blogspot.com/

Position of Explorer at Pond Inlet shown with the blue arrow.

Thanks so much Ngaire for updating us all.

We have been looking at the ice charts everyday and reading the blogs of other boats in the area to get a sense of what is happening with the ice. This sure is an adventure!

Hope you get some positive news soon on how you are going to get through.

PS.. Thanks Canon Ken for wonderful photos. NiKon Ken is quite envious of your great photo ops!

Does anyone know where they are?

The ice reports have not been encouraging. I hope things change soon.

My bet is that they will get escorted by a Canadian icebreaker along with the Bremen. The Bremen started its cruise on 8/18 in Greenland, and is supposed to be in the Pond Inlet area on 8/22, so the Explorer may be cruising around east of the blockage until the Bremen catches up with them.

The per-diem for this cruise was really high, so I would guess that they have some contingency funds in the budget to pay for an icebreaker escort, but I am just speculating.

I wonder when they will be in internet range again?

The National Geographic Explorer tried to get through the ice with the help of an icebreaker and failed. http://www.expeditions.com/daily-expedition-reports/176317/ng-explorer/

Conditions in that area at the west end of the Bellot Strait haven't improved much if at all.

Getting a bit worried about the ice as we are on Otaru to Guam. I do have a plan B in mind just in case though, involving hiking in Japan. Just need to know if explorer is going to make it through or not!

We're with you on the Otaru to Guam, Rachel - maybe it is time to look at a plan B, but I think they will get through somehow. Financially it will be a huge expense for them if they don't.

I assumed an icebreaker could do the job ,so it is interesting to read that it didn't work for the National Geo ship. But there are 7 routes through the NW passage so maybe one will look better, plus the National Geo ship wasn't going all the way through, but ending in Iqaluit, so turning back wasn't the big deal for it as it would be for the SS Explorer. Likewise, the Bremen goes back to Greenland or Iceland, not all the way through.

Unlike the Nome to Otaru passengers we will have more notice. And it is possible they will get to Nome later than Sept. 1, but in that case they would most likely put up the passengers in Nome for a couple of days, cut a few days from the Nome to Otaru cruise and start ours on time.

If it becomes impossible to get through the NWP, they would have to transit the Panama Canal. The Otaru to Guam trip should be unaffected. The Nome to Otaru trip is a whole other problem.
The Nat Geo ship ended its trip in Resolute and I imagine the passengers who were to board in Iqaluit will instead board in Resolute and then sail the eastern half of the Canadian Arctic back to Greenland.
I think the Silver Explorer is the only ship that needs to go all the way through. I really hope the ice situation changes and soon!

There is a really good hiking company that has a hike in Japan from sept 19 to oct 1. I haven't contacted them yet to see if they have any slots left. Looking at previous years, I think if they don't get through in the next 7 days, it is not happening.

They would really have to haul butt to make it to Otaru by Sept 19 unless they start really soon.

I am worried now. Ignorance WAS bliss! I have no idea what we will do if SUMO gets cancelled. I guess it is time to start thinking about it but unlike you, Rachel, we are not really hikers. Hope Leslie and Lauri have it right and somehow SS will make it work.
------------------
Helen

We're worried too. On Sunday we'll be on a ship to Anchorage on our way to Nome for the Sept 1st sailing on the Explorer. It won't be easy to get from Nome to Otaru if the Russian segment is cancelled.

Silversea must have a Plan B. I suppose calling them or having your TA call them might ease your worries.

My TA is on the Explorer so I have to wait until she gets internet.

That's funny, Jim! We've reached out to our Silversea Rep and as soon as we have information to share, we will post it in this thread.

Julie, thank you. We are all so eager to hear what's going on!

According to our Silversea Representative, the Silver Explorer is the traversing the Northwest Passage and is still expected to reach Nome, Alaska by September 1st. The ship is in the Arctic Circle and is out of satellite range and that is why we have not heard from the passengers. Hopefully, they will be in satellite range soon and we will get an update and maybe get to see some photos of narwhals.

Well, according to the official Canadian government website, no ship has gone through at all.

And this just in...

Aug
22
M/V SILVER EXPLORER stuck in Northwest Passage ice escorted by Canadian Coast Guard icebreaker
REPORTS START TO SURFACE ABOUT A CRUISE SHIP AND ICEBREAKER STUCK IN ARCTIC ICE...

http://northwestpassage2014.blogspot.com/

Oh no! Looks like they tried to push a little too far. Nat Geo almost got stuck but turned around. They didn't have to make it to Nome though.
I'm sure we'll hear some very interesting stories once this is all over.

Latest update:

One of our fellow Japan cruisers has been on many SS Explorer cruises and just got in touch with Conrad, the head of SS Expeditions. She emailed to ask him about the "stuck in ice" story and he replied right back:

Conrad said -
" They were not stuck. They were under Canadian Ice breaker escort for three days and are now sailing in an ice free area . No problems and no concerns. "

So, good news for everyone!

Great news. Now I can start packing.

That's great. We board the Statendam in Vancouver today heading to Anchorage. I guess we won't be spending extra days in Nome. We'll see the LCT group when you board in Otaru.

We made it through the North West Passage!!!!!!!! Four days behind a Canadian Ice Breaker, and quite an experience. We did get stuck in the ice twice, but they were right there to get us unstuck. The ice is so beautiful, it was so serene and peaceful. We have not seen much wildlife, though we did have a Polar Bear and Cub come close to the ship the first day in Canada that was spectacular. While we were in the ice there were many sittings of them, but they were far away (just little dots with the naked eye) and we could not deviate to get closer while we were following the ice breaker as the priority was to get through the ice safely. We are all having a wonderful time and Ngaire has set up a special dinner tonight for all of us. They are going to set up the outer rear deck for us for dinner tonight so we will be dinning outside. The Explorer has "hot rocks" they bring out to use to cook your steak, chicken or salmon. Don't want to loose this so will post now ... more latter.

PS Nine days without internet is really painful even when you are on vacation!

TEMPORARY INTERNET AT AN INUIT COMMUNITY AT CAMBRIDGE BAY. REPORTS WRITTEN FOLLOWING.

Not sure when this will get posted we are without internet but I will continue the reports and at some point we will get this up. We were pleased yesterday when we got internet in the library at Pond Inlet. Ken was able to post pictures and we hope an attachment we sent to our office that has a post was received and is now on LCT

August 17, 2014
ICE REPORT – some movement showing but still a lot of red showing at this time. Better than it was yesterday when it looked like it was getting more blocked. We are all keeping our fingers crossed.
PORT INLET
After a little rough weather (not too bad) crossing over to Canada early in the morning we were welcomed to Canada by a perfectly calm sea and absolutely gorgeous snowcapped mountains. The scenery was truly spectacular.

The Canadian officials cleared the ship and we were all anxious to step ashore in Canada. Mad dash to the library where four computers were available for internet use. The young lady behind the counter was definitely not Inuit and she was very helpful to everyone. She had on a seal skin vest with a Narwhal in the seal skin made from using the white parts of the seal skin. I gave her a Narwhal pin that she was delighted to receive. She was actually born in Montreal, but lived in this area as a young child. Her family moved to Scotland where she has spent most of her life. But she decided to move back to her roots in the Canadian Arctic and has been in Port Inlet for three months. I love visiting these towns but absolutely cannot imagine choosing to live here. I bet there was a man involved!

The town is situated in the most beautiful harbors surrounded by mountains and a few icebergs. STUNNING. This morning before we arrived NARWHALS were in the harbor. Such a totally different environment from Greenland. Gone were the colorful houses and dogs everywhere. This was a good size community of about 1500 people and lots of nice buildings. About 200 children are in school here and they have a separate elementary school and high school and a college for educating adults. A local guide took us around the town which is fairly new. Embarrassed to say I cannot remember the exact dates but about 40 years ago they started this community and the Inuit people moved to this area and the town is increasing in population.

One child was asked what her favorite foods were and the response was, Macaroni and Cheese, Seal meat, Narwhal and Pizza. Mixing the traditional with the new! Children were delightful again, so outgoing and they spoke English of course that made the visit far more entertaining. A little boy and girl were riding their bicycles and came right over to us to talk. Super friendly they were delightful. I gave them a pin and they raced off all excited.
The town put on a cultural show that was really outstanding. I must admit I do get a little tired of these shows (terrible admission) but this one was really terrific. It started with a wonderful rendition of the Canadian National Anthem sung by a beautiful young Inuit woman.

Next were demonstrations of the arctic games that involved physical strength and skills from the men. These games are held in the Canadian Arctic regions and gold, silver and bronze medals are awarded for the winners. One challenge involved balancing on one hand while they hit a small replica of a seal with their feet. All the skills are designed to help in the strength and balance to hunt. To settle arguments each man would keep hitting the other on the arm until one backed down. The one that we will all remember was the mouth pulling. Each man puts his finger inside the other man’s mouth and pulls the other man’s lip to the side as hard as he can. That really looked like it hurt! This was all fascinating.
Then there was singing and dancing led by the man that bought these local skills and customs back to the people of this town. We were told he was the local celebrity. He had so much rhythm and was truly wonderful to watch. A little boy about 3 years old had his baby drum and was beating away as well with the adults.
Then the ladies showed us “throat singing” that was really remarkable. The ship said they would give lessons. They create really unusual sounds and I have never really heard anything like this before. Then they did the happy dance that was meant to make people laugh. They succeeded we were all laughing. The beautiful young Inuit woman who opened the show had a totally contorted face and crossed eyes.

Then we went into the Co-Op store. It was really big a short supply of fresh produce and what was there was very expensive. THEY DID HAVE CHERRIES but no price for those I decided to give it a pass. Wandering around we saw the clothing and I actually bought a jacket. Seldom buy anything unless I am in Shanghai or India where I have been known to turn into a shopping fiend. The written language is so strange here and the jacket has the local writing and English for Port Inlet along with the man made from stones that is on the local flag. The material was good and it fit. So I left sporting a new jacket last thing I expected to do.
Can you tell I loved this stop the scenery the people and culture were all really interesting.






Old Mud House.


Community Center in Pond Inlet, Canada with INTERNET!!




Throat Singing in the Cultural Center.


Arctic Games.


Very painful Arctic Game.


Not exactly Greenland.

LEAVING POND INLET

Sailing from Pond Inlet it was truly idyllic. Mountains with snow, two big tabular icebergs and the water was so calm it was like glass. Then at dinner the announcement “Narwhals are around the ship”. However the sighting was not good and they said if it got better they would let us know. Narwhal are very shy and they are also hunted so good sightings are rare. However, from the window seat in the dining room Mo and I both saw a roll of back. No tooth but still I can say I have seen a Narwhal. Still hopeful that another sighting will take place.

DEVON ISLAND – August 18, 2014 – Polar Bear territory.
Again another absolutely perfect day. Zero wind 37 degrees, sunshine and calm seas. The staff had to clear the landing site to ensure there were no polar bears around. Once the polar bear worry was averted we were able to land. Since it was 37 degrees and there was ice around I decided to wear my red parka. A mistake, it is amazing at home 37 degrees is cold. But walking around with the sun shining it is SO warm. I ended up with my jacket off and just a short sleeve top. You need the parka for the zodiac ride but after that it is way too warm.

This was an old Royal Canadian Mounted Police station. Some old abandoned buildings still with cans, books, furniture inside. Of course there was also the necessary arctic outhouse. We learned in a Liars Club session that a BOG CHISEL is actually an instrument to remove ice from the seat of the outhouse – learn something new every day. It was interesting to visit the old buildings but walking on the boggy ground was also pretty interesting. Glad I had my boots! It was good to get off and walk around. Definitely worked off my breakfast now I can enjoy lunch.
RADISSON SAVES THE DAY!

We were informed an Ice Breaker would welcome us this morning. The name of this ice breaker is the Raddison! There it was on our arrival complete with helicopter. The helicopter is used to judge the ice in our path and whether they feel like we can get through. The Silver Explorer will follow the Radisson through the ice. The interesting event is that we asked for the icebreaker first. The National Geographic Explorer ship was coming into the area and were behind the Explorer. Not sure how far behind us that ship is actually situated. The National Geographic ship is trying to do a change of guests in Resolute but that area is blocked and they cannot get through without an ice breaker. So that ship will probably have to wait until we are through and the ice breaker comes back.

Tim picked up a local newspaper in Port Inlet where the lack of Coast Guard Ice Breakers was big news. They are all old and they do not have enough. Sweden and Norway have more icebreakers than Canada and they have no ice conditions like Canada. China was contemplating bringing in icebreakers as it could be very profitable. However the Canadians have announced 3.1 billion dollars budgeted for new icebreakers.

CROCKER BAY AND THE CUNNINGHAM GLACIER – August 19, 2014

This afternoon there was a zodiac tour around the face of the glacier and the icebergs in the area. Twelve of the LCT group got on the same zodiac and off they went. We waited for the other people in the group and left a little later. Today it was COLD, the wind picked up and coming off that ice it was the first time I felt cold. Our smaller group had an expedition leader named Peter. He is full of information and will be on the Sumo trip as well. In fact quite a few of the team will be on Sumo so it is nice to know some of them from the start.

This afternoon we entered the Prince Regent inlet on our way to the Bellot Strait where we will need our ice breaker to get through the strait and through the heavy ice to open water. The Prince Regent Inlet was also blocked at one point but broke up enough for us to get through on our own and the Radisson will join us tomorrow at noon. During the night we heard a lot of bumping and grinding as we started through the ice. Many were up at 5.00 am in the observation lounge watch as the ship slowly navigated the ice. At one point the ship went up to the ice and then stopped and back up and changed direction. Guess that piece was a “NO GO”.

WHALES AND POLAR BEARS- 8.00 am
Stefan the expedition leader announced there were Bow Head whales in front of the ship. Ken and I decided we need to get up and go look and slowly stared to get ready. Hard to get out of that warm bed. Then another announcement we have spotted our first polar bears and the course was changed to go the Polar Bears. Now THAT news got us into warp speed.

What a thrill we had in store. A mother bear and a cub on the ice. The bear kept coming closer and closer with the little one in the rear. The cub imitated almost every movement of the mother. It was an adorable sight. She was sniffing the air and smelling us and was obviously curious. At one point she growled at us. The bears came right to the ice edge and extremely close to the ship. Impossible to give an exact figure but probably about 50 feet. No need for binoculars. The cameras were clicking and the opened the lower deck in the front of the ship. I managed a perfect spot. I knelt down and looked through the railings. All the cameras could shoot over my head. It was a fantastic sighting. I thought the mother was going to go into the water but she did not. It was so cold that after a while almost everyone had to come inside and the bear started walking back to the middle of the ice. The staff went to see, everyone it seemed was on the decks. Smiles all around this morning.

We anchored at the entrance to Bellot Straits. This is very narrow Strait leading into Peel Sound which is still 9/10ths blocked at the last report. There are treacherous currents and a lot of ice in the Bellow Strait so we hope that the Radisson decides it is a go for us to proceed. The helicopter was sent to check out the conditions and flew over the ship. Again the cameras were clicking away. Now we are waiting for the assessment of the situation from the Radisson. We started a sheet to guess the time of the next landing. The choices ranged from tomorrow the 21st all the way to the 25th. This is truly an adventure no one knows for sure what will happen next. There is an old Hudson Bay Trading Post abandoned site at the entrance to the strait. If we cannot go through today we will do a landing here this afternoon.
Lots of card playing, polar bear picture comparing and FISH trivia at afternoon tea. The expedition team take turns with trivia all about their particular area of expertise. The expedition team have really grown on us. Most have a good sense of humor with a couple of standouts who will be on the ship for Sumo. I find I can settle into the lazy sea day routines very easily.
We just heard the official word. After two flights from the helicopter it was decided they could not do safe passage today. So we both the Radisson and Silver Explorer stay anchored for the night and we will see what the conditions will be tomorrow.


















Hudson Bay Company outpost.

THE PASSAGE OF THE ICE- August 21st, 2014

We woke at 7.30 am as the engines kicked into gear. Then we were told that we were making our first attempt at Bellow Straits. The ice breaker had gone through and said we could make it and was waiting at the end of the strait. Then another announcement of TWO POLARS bears on the port side. However, they were quite a distance and we could not go in close as it was too shallow. As we started into the Bellot straight we had two more polar bear sightings. Ken spotted one before it was announced but once the attempt at piercing the ice was started then was no stopping. The ice and currents only allowed for full steam ahead.
We slowly went through the Bellot straight and weaved in between the ice and clear water, sometimes going straight through the ice as there was no other alternative. We could see the ice breaker in the distance and at that moment we saw blue sky and sun. It was so nice to see the sun

Once we got out of the Bellot Strait we realized the difference in the thickness of the ice in the Peel Sound. We could never have made it without the ice breaker. We are now following the ice breaker. Initially it left a path of water in the wake but now it is simply breaking up the ice into smaller pieces allowing us passage. We all spend the morning up in the observation lounge and outside, boy was it cold out of the wind and in the sun sure helped but that was not where we could stand for the view of the icebreaker. We did take some group shots of those that were around I hope they come out.

I came down to my cabin on deck 3 and the noise of the ice hitting the ship is far louder than I would have expected. Looking out the window the pieces are large some look to be about 3 to 4 ft thick, perhaps more with some the ice under the ship. It looks like some clear water in-between the ice but we were told that is simply melting and it is ice underneath.

As I am writing this another announcement THREE MORE POLAR BEARS sighted on the starboard side and then a few minutes later TWO MORE POLAR BEARS on the port side. We would love to go closer but we cannot stop our ice transit or we might get a bit stuck. No stopping at this point. The ice is getting much thicker with ridges of older ice all over the place. These can be an issue for the ice breaker. This is absolutely amazing I am going back upstairs again. No way to describe this at all it has to be experienced.

Great day and we will be in the ice for another full day before the icebreaker leaves us. We are now up to SIXTEEN POLAR BEARS sighted. Some of these are really too far away to take photos and you can only see them with binoculars but they sure are around here.




The Helicopter leaves the ice breaker to check for the safest route. He goes out 50 miles.




Helicopter returns.




Anna & Arlene.

DEAD IN THE WATER – MYSTERY AT SEA -August 22nd

At 4.00 am Ken said we are not moving. We looked out the window and it appeared we were stuck in the ice. There were some possible explanations

(a) We were stuck in the ice
(b) We stopped for the night as it looked like we were right in the middle of the sound where we would have to make a decision which route take
(c) Something had damaged the propeller and we had a big problem.

The day before and that evening we hit some heavy ice, some pieces being 6ft thick and blue ice (the hard stuff). When we went to sleep we were being bumped and banged around. How any vessel without an ice strengthened hull could do this is beyond my comprehension. The icebreaker breaks up the ice but does not create a clear sailing channel as I imagined. Following an ice breaker I still think you would need an ice strengthened hull. It is simply changed from a solid piece to broken up pieces but some are huge.

THE ANSWER TO THE MYSTERY
When we went to breakfast we got the “scoop” from the night before. We had been stuck once and the icebreaker went around the ship with the thrusters and broke us free. However the second time we were stuck that did not work. They said the ice breaker got really close with the thrusters but to no avail. So while we were at breakfast the ice breaker did the circle and thruster action again and slowly we started to move. WHEW!
We have made slow progress today with exceptionally heavy ice. It is stunningly beautiful and they have stopped pointing out polar bears they are too far away and we cannot deviate our course.
After lunch Linda, Susan and Arlene said they were going to go in the hot tub. I did not bring a swimsuit but said I would go to offer support! Well the hot tub was hot, the sun was shining and the ice was glittering. Beautiful time to sit in a hot tub. So with a little encouragement from the girls I decided to go in with my clothes on. I was wearing some fleece type pants that hold a lot of water. In my desire to participate I did not contemplate the dripping mess I would be when I left the water. Nor that I had just finished washing the outfit I was wearing. No problem, I squelched back to my cabin and rewashed the clothes it was worth it. The four girls had champagne and Brayden (Ralph’s 16 year old grandson) had a diet coke.

This evening was really neat. The ship decided to just park and wait 8 hours as there was fog ahead. Some of the group went to “hot rocks” where you eat on deck and cook your own protein on a tile heated to 450 degrees. They could not have picked a more perfect night. Surrounded by sparkling ice, sunshine and the ice breaker coming right next to the ship (really close) to break up some ice around the ship I guess to ensure we would not get too stuck. Also the helicopter took off to decide the course we would take tomorrow. They also have lobster tails available at hot rocks and that was not available on the Discover. Seven of us were having dinner with Bruno the photographer so we could not do that but we had a great dinner with Bruno and the restaurant meal was the best I have had on the ship so we were all happy. We have booked Hot Rocks for all 18 of us for the night of the 24th and cross our fingers it is a good night to be on deck as it can be VERY cold.

Tonight the expedition team had some evening entertainment that was really fun. We were all there participating. They do trivia here and team events but no emphasis placed on who actually WON. I like that it is just great to work as a team to figure out the answers. This was interrupted by yet another polar bear on our starboard side who was standing on his hind legs. We passed fairly quickly but Linda had her camera and got a shot and Ken is getting a copy of that so he can post it.

ICE AND MORE ICE – August 23rd.

We made excellent time today. The ice thins out and we get some clear water and then the heavy ice comes back again. It is again a stunningly sunny day again! We really have lucked out with the weather as the ice is impossible to describe and is so gorgeous with the sun shining. It would not be the same if it was overcast all the time. More polar bears sighted but the ice breaker is loud and they run off so hard to get shots.

At around 3.00 pm we said goodbye the ice and hit clear water. A contingent of the Coast Guard Ice Breaker came on the ship and were welcomed by cheering passengers. After they left the POLAR PLUNGE took place. Ten people jumped into the ocean and we have three of those, with Linda (of Linda and Chris) Barbara and Brayden. Pictures will be forthcoming.

We are now sailing to the ice edge looking for more polar bears. Now we can get much closer and stop if we see bears. So tonight it is a buffet dinner in our WARM day clothes as we may be racing outside for more pictures this will probably be our last good chance as we will be losing the ice.

Tonight or tomorrow we expect a return of the internet. This has become so long almost too long to read but I will post it anyway.
After all this time without internet I am sure everyone will be on consistently for a while so that may take longer. We will do all we can today and be back later.


Captain from the Ice Breaker comes over to the Silver Explorer.


Brayden jumps into the 33 degree water.






Boy that water is cold.

Amazing is all I can say, what an experience you'all are having and the pictures are just incredible. So glad you made it thur and all is well.

Yay!! They made it!

Wow! What a suspenseful account! Were you ever afraid?

Thanks for all, including the fabulous pix, of course!

Not too long at all. I enjoyed every word. And of course the photos. So nice they now have Hot Rocks.
But it's the bears I would want to experience more than anything!

SO glad you are safe and out of the ice. I was getting a bit worried. George is jealous.

Great reports and photos! WHAT an adventure you all are having. Can't wait to see and hear more. We've all been monitoring the ice reports and speculating. So glad you made it through!

I'm so glad all is well . . loved the reports!

Peggy

I also meant to say I LOVED seeing Anna!

Peggy

WOW . Great to hear from you! Thank you for keeping the documentary going without internet all those days so you could share the amazing photos and reports! Loved reading it all!!

Why am I not surprised at Braden diving into that cold water? Ralph, you have given this kid memories for a lifetime. And the hot tub. I was with Susan on ICE (Explorer 2), and she did it again!

Peggy, Is that Anna from Regent who worked in the dining room? I loved that gal from my very beginning days with Regent! I've missed her lately.

Glad all is well with the cruise and the people on the ship. Jhp, that is the wonderful Anna who was on Regent. and she is definately missed.
Elaine

jhp . . .yes that is "our" Anna! She moved over to SS several years ago.

Peggy

This is Bradon's third time. You would think a smart kid like he is,would know the water is not going to get any warmer each time. What an exciting trip. We were at the beach and it was 100. That cold and ice seems a great place to be. Enjoy your last days.

Where are they?? They are going to have to resurface soon, as the ship is supposed to be in Nome tomorrow.

Rachel, I am wondering the same! I bet Ngaire has been keeping notes and saved. What an adventure they must have had.

After this, like someone mentioned before with concerns, I am wondering how a much larger Crystal ship could venture into these waters without having the reinforced hulls that the expedition ships have. Let alone the numbers of passengers aboard for landings, and getting them on and off for those zodiac wanderings. We had only about 200 aboard when I was on the Explorer 2, and there were still lines.

Elaine and Peggy, thanks for that news about Anna. Each cruise on Regent, I have been looking for her and she's never there.

Olivia, If you read the small print on the Crystal itinerary for the NW Passage it says that not all guests will be able to go ashore at each place and the stay may be only 1 hour. Sounds like a lot of icy sea days to me.
I hope the Explorer arrives on time too. We're in Anchorage and fly to Nome in the morning to go onboard. Maybe we'll see the LCT group in the airport.

Nome airport can't be that large, so I bet you will see some of the LCT group there. Have fun, and we will see you on the 19th.

CAMBRIDGE BAY – August 24, 2014 – Internet and Hot Rocks dining.
Well after working on the internet and watching a little of the folk show (not anywhere near as good as the Pond Inlet show) there was not much time for anything else. We did visit the Arctic Church with some unique stained glass windows. The birth of Jesus in an igloo being one of them. Ken took a few pictures.

Tonight we arranged a private group dinner on the deck cooking on the “hot rocks”. Anyone who has been on Silversea has probably done this before. They use tiles heated to 450 degrees and you cook your own protein on the tile. They have steaks, lobster tails and salmon. Lovely if it is a nice night but not so great if it is cold. We did this on the Discoverer and I was not enthralled. We froze and it took forever to cook the food. However, this night was wonderful. We all wore our warm coats and they had blankets but the night was not cold, no wind and it was very nice out. The food cooked really fast (I think the tiles must have been hotter) and we had an expedition team member at each of our three tables. This was a great evening. Most of them went down to play “name that tune” but Ken and I decided bed was calling.

A DAY AT SEA AND FINALLY A TRIVIA WIN - August 25th – no internet

Lots of card playing today. Trivia is held at tea time but always to do with the things we are “supposed” to be learning about. If you read the daily program and go to the lectures your odds increase. Unfortunately as a group we are not that good at doing those things. Today it was basically Geography. Those pesky questions “which is further North or South” with very little distance between the four choices. Plus lots of questions on flags of different counties. Out of 25 he said the scores are seldom over 10 right. We managed 14 right and tied for the win.

Dinner tonight was Mongolian. Not my cup of tea. The good thing is that the room service menu is good and at any meal you can order anything that is on the 24 hour room service menu. So even if a menu is not to your liking there are a lot of good choices.

SMOKING HILLS – August 26, 2014 – no internet
Today we visited Smoking Hills by zodiac. A unique place discovered in 1826 where hydrocarbon (oil shales) have been burning for centuries. Obviously this is why the area was named Smoking Hills. The colors of all shades of yellow, red, and green coupled with the black of the coal were really quite beautiful. The mountain was smoking away and there were many areas where the smoke was rising from the mountain. Some down low and some pretty high up. This is not a volcanic issue but created by a chemical called Jaroside. All this is a perma frost area! The expedition team told us that the reaction is caused by the salt water. If you go over the top of the mountain there is no smoke. Actually more interesting than we thought it would be initially.

TUKTOYAKTUK – August 27, 2014 – no internet
We sailed into the bay for Tuk (locals just called it Tuk) and the water is very shallow. So it was a 45 minute ride to the town. The town made a big effort. This is the first ship ever to visit Tuk. They had local guides to show each group around. School buses were also out for transportation.

The two most interesting things about this island were the Pingos and the Ice Freezer. Pingos are mounds formed from ice trapped below the top soil that pushes up the land. Some are quite high and look like small hills. We were able to walk up one that had a trail and it gave a great view of the town and ocean. There is an ICE ROAD in the winter over the ocean and into the McKenzie River that connects Tuk with other areas. In about three years they will have an all-weather road. Looking out on the ocean it is hard to imagine that ice road. The Ice Freezer went down 30 ft into the perma frost via a steep ladder. At the bottom were about 13 rooms and no light at all so you needed a flashlight. Those that signed the waiver and went down really found it interesting.

Then the town put on lunch for the all the passengers. Not my cup of tea, dried seal and fish, beluga whale, and white fish. It also included a caribou soup that was luke warm. This was followed by a show with drums and dancing, a fashion show and arctic games. We decided to eat lunch on board!

HEADING TO NOME -August 28 – September 1

It was announced we will have no internet for the rest of the trip. Little information on the details but some suspect something happened in the jarring ice we came through. They refunded all internet charges for the trip, the time that was used and of course the time still remaining. Now we have three days at sea with no internet. We have been without internet for about two weeks now!

During those days…
Walrus sighting at around 8.00 am there were walrus on ice and we were able to get the ship right up the ice and the walrus it was a great sighting.

There was a game where guests wrote out funny things that had happened to them and then the other guests had to match each statement with a guest. Arlene entered a “hole in one at St. Andrews in Scotland”. The kicker was it was on the St. Andrews women’s putting green. That made everyone laugh. Ken told his “I was molested by a mountain gorillas in Rwanda story”. This was also a hit. On the trivia the next day one of the questions was, “which guest was molested by the mountain gorilla”? Our team own and got bottle of 1999 champagne and a red wine. We will drank these at our cocktail hour.

On the final Captain’s Farewell Night the crew did their first crew show after dinner. They put a lot into it but had a lot of technical difficulties with the microphones. It was not a slick show like you see on regular cruise ship. At the end the expedition team came out all dressed up and sang a song and played the music to the song I WILL SURVIVE – except it was titled WE WILL ARRIVE. The lyrics tell the whole story of the trip so I thought I would write these out as m final post.

1. At first I was afraid, I was petrified. Would we ever make it to the other side? The ice chart was so red, and distance seemed so long, but we grew strong, and we scribbled down this song.
2. And just like that, with no time to waste, the PIERRE RADISSON arrived to help us quicken our slow pace. We barreled through the ice past polar bears and bearded seals, while glaucous gull and terns ate ice breaker churned up meals.
3. Outside the hull, the ice it roars. Sometimes it scrapes so loud I can’t hear my roommate snore. Did Amundsen have an icebreaker with him too? Did he watch his helicopter fly off to tell him which way through?
4. Apple pie, eggs poached or fried. Sure the lettuce will lose its green, but at least in Nome we’ll arrive, we will arrive… True we got stuck in the ice, more than once, perhaps more than twice, But we will arrive we will arrive, Hey ..Hey
5. We saw brightly colored homes on barren tundra land, and a breaching whale we wanted to give a big hand. Musk ox and snow geese near a Devon Island Base. We often tried, but we couldn’t get online.
6. And on the bridge, no time for sleep. Luckily the scenery would make even the toughest cowboy weep. Ice pilot Mark, Captain and Staff Captain too took us to the Northwest Passage, and safely got us through.

The Silver Explorer was the ONLY passenger ship to make it through the Northwest Passage in 2014 and there was a lot of ice. It was a magical four days in the ice I will never forget the experience.

Wow, that is an amazing story, and it am sure there is more to come. And photos too.