Thanks Ngaire I have enjoyed every post and love Ken's photos - Joanna

Yes, another wonderful vicarious vacation moment brought to us by Ngaire and Ken. Thank you!

Wow! The pictures are fantastic. India has never been that high on my list. Think I'm going to be changing my mind after reading Ngaire's report and viewing Ken's pictures.

great pictures and a wonderful report.

Beautiful photos and great reporting!

A friend of mine told me years ago that the only way to go to India was ultra-luxury. Based on my experience in Mumbai, and Ngaire's notes from the field, he was dead right. I would not go back there under any other circumstances (except for business, which I have managed to avoid for 5 years now.)

Wendy, I have to agree with you! I have sent this thread to my niece, who is preparing to go to India for Ngaire's take on the sights. She just finished her stint with the Peace Corps in Zambia, and really knows what living among poverty is all about! She will not be traveling the luxe route, but is young. During her time in Africa, she climbed Mt. Kilamenjaro (sp?), did safari in pitch tents, and made the best of her time there. Amazing how young people just don't need all those "princess things" that we learn to enjoy.

I have loved Ngaire's reports, and when I am ready to go there, will call upon her to custom-make a tour based on her favorite places.

Yes, I know what you mean, at least in the case of India (and probably other parts of the third world, or second-and-a-half world!). In Europe, I actually like travelling second class (i.e., smaller hotels, no guides, public transportation, following our noses.) But in India, no.

When I was there on business, five years ago, my colleague (Canadian, but living in India), insisted that I experience the "real" India. I stayed in a company-owned condo apartment, which was okay, but definitely, ah, spartan, let's say. The neighbourhood was somewhat upscale (I figured out it was not a slum after a few days!!), but we drove to work every morning in an auto-rikshaw (his idea), through a horrible industrial slum around a huge cement factory. Bad idea. We were regularly accosted by beggars, including trannies, and teenaged girls with babies.

His Indian colleagues in the office were horrified that he would do this to me. People get killed in rikshaws! That weekend, we visited a hill station, and a resort hotel called the King's Retreat or something--considered very upper crust, but it was not really, I found it very average, not opulent in any way like what Ngaire is experiencing. If I ever go back, it's the best hotels I can find, and a private car to drive me to work, I swear.

Ngaire,
Wow, I think India has just moved up my ever changing list of top 5 places to go. Thanks for the wonderful pictures and reviews!! Have a great time.

JAIPUR – another great couple of days,

Japuir is considered part of the golden triangle and visited by most tourists to India.
At first the town is not that appealing. However after a few days seeing the sighs of Japuir it is clear why this town is visited by most tourists.


AMBER FORT
This is called a fort but is in reality a Maharaja’s Palace. Built on the top of a hill it is also surrounded by a fort with ”the great wall of India” for protection. As you arrive there is a magnificent view of the old fort; the palace and the drive to Amber Fort you start to see all the elephants. It is fascinating to see these large animals on regular roads with cars and trucks. The view of the palace and fort, the lake in front, the elephants, jeeps, vendors and general confusion it is a the scene at the bottom is quite remarkable.

Getting to the top – elephant or jeep.
Elephant
There is an elephant ride to the top of the fort. It is inexpensive about $13 per elephant up to two people per elephant. It takes about 30 minutes to the top. However, in order to do this you must get there early and line up, it is first come first served and they only allow two people per elephant and only 300 people a day. It meant getting up really early so we decided to wait until we got to the safari camp to do our elephant riding.

There are four wheel drive jeeps that take you to the top. Not good for taking pictures the jeeps are covered and you cannot see out very well.

Touring the Palace
This is a very interesting tour. There are some areas that are still in excellent condition and never been restored. All the frescos were done with vegetable dies and have stood the test of time. The sights range from areas that are almost ruins to preserved rooms decorated with frescos, mirrors that are quite beautiful.

The combination of the drive in, seeing the fort palace and all the elephants this is a great tour. It takes about three to four hours to do the whole thing.

The other tour we took was to the old city that was first painted in honor of the visit of the Prince of Wales. This tradition has been maintained and now every building in the old city must be pink. First you see the pink walls and then you know right away you are in the pink city. The observatory and city palace are in the old city.

The observatory is interesting with the largest sundial in the world that keeps time to two seconds. It is quite fascinating. The Palace museums are housed in part of the City Palace and there are three museums. They are not large. These have items from the Maharajas of this region. One has clothing, one has weapons and the third is paintings, rugs and howdeh’s (elephant saddles for carrying people). The current Maharaja still lives in this complex.

Shopping- I have my Indian outfits
Japiur is known for the shopping. Tailor made clothes in a few hours , bangles, bags, and souvenir items are everywhere. The streets are lined with vendors and all the brightly colored goods on display. Bargaining is the order of the day. Although there is the normal “come into my store” requests once you say no the the store owners or street vendors they back off more than they do in other areas of the world. We had lunch at a hotel and then wandered into a store close by - two hours later I left with 3 Indian outfits being custom made for me. It is hard to buy ready made clothing here as everything is custom made. I bought three outfits and one of the others bought an outfit. This was at about 3.00 pm we left the shop, the delivered the outfits to our hotel by 7.30 pm.!!!. One turned out well, one okay but the third did not work well. They made everything too big and one style is huge. They placed a turban on Ken as a good husband buying his wife clothing. The outfits cost about $85 each. Pants, top and scarf, all washable silk. Nice materials and with sequins and beads. Just imagine something on me other than black on the ships they may not recognize me. You never see black here just a color they don’t wear.

We stayed at the Oberoi Rajvilas another super luxury hotel. The only negative about this hotel is that it is about 20 minutes out of town. The rooms are wonderful, large and comfortable, a great bathroom with a sunken marble tub, with candles and the tub looks out onto a private courtyard with plants and a big urn full of flowers. There was internet in the rooms. The grounds are huge, with lush green lawns, flowers and trees. The pool area is a dream for those who like to relax poolside. The décor of the hotel is contemporary and Moorish and quite stunning.

We had a fabulous out door candlelight dinner one night. Big urns were lighting the area with fire, they had candles floating in the water in the courtyard and it all reflected on the soft peach colored Moorish architecture. Indian music and dancers provided the entertainment. The stars were shining, the temperature perfect, the food was fantastic, this was a very romantic and magical evening.

THE TAJ MAHAL.

Finally we reach the Taj Mahal. Agra is the where the Taj is located and this is the dirtiest most unappealing town we saw. The area leading to the Taj was smelly and the street vendors here incredibly persistent. I thought if someone just flew in from the ship and just saw the Taj and Agra their impression of India would not be good. We stayed at the Oberoi again and it is a super luxury hotel. This is the way to go in India. In a few places the Taj hotels are good but the Oberoi is the best in my view. On arrival in our room we were greeted by a spectacular view of the Taj and in the forefront the incredible pool area. Indian dancers were performing. This trip has been a series of incredible sights that will be forever etched in my memory.

We visited the Taj that afternoon and all opted to get up and be at the gates when the Taj opened again in the morning at 6.00 am. So many times you get to see a sight that you have built up in your mind and then you are disappointed. Not so with the Taj Mahal. It is a magnificent structure. I loved it and just could not stop looking at the Taj. The late afternoon visit and the sunrise visit it was amazing how the colors of the marble changed. We left this morning and the group from the Voyager are coming in this afternoon. Missed them by a few hours!!!! It would have been fun to have been there with the Voyager. I cant really write much on the Taj but to say it is truly one of the most awe inspiring man made structures I have ever seen.. The crowds were not bad either in the evening and very few in the morning.

I feel like my visit to India is over now. We have tonight in Delhi which is just going to be another big city. Tomorrow we head out for the tiger reserve. A 3 hour flight then a 7 hour drive we will arrive late at night. One full day (2 game drives) at Camp Mewar and then we leave at around 4.00 am – 7 hour drive and then the 3 hours flight back to Dehli. A day room for about 8 hours and then the flight back to the US. This is going to be strenuous and no internet. So I probably wont post again probably until my return. I am so hopeful of seeing a tiger. I usually am lucky and we have had perfect weather for the whole trip. It has been raining in Delhi and now we arrive in bright sunshine.

My impression of India has changed. I was not excited about this trip. I was concerned that I would get sick from the food, find it dirty and unappealing. The princess in me was definitely hesitant to undertake 16 days here. I have left with a new appreciation. The luxury is certainly here, hotels that are probably some of the best I have ever experienced. All the Oberoi hotels you can even drink the tap water. None of us have any tummy problems of any kind. The food is okay, not the best but not the worst either, in most cases European food is available although of course Indian food is always available. I gained weight on this trip as I don’t like any Indian food so ate the pastas, breads and desserts that I normally do not eat. The sights are more interesting than I had aniticapted and of course the Taj is magnificent. The dancing and entertainment I really enjoyed. The dancers in each region and town are completely different so it far more appealing than seeing the same thing all the time. The colors of the saris and the general chaos of the towns kept me fascinated. It is necessary to drive to get from place to place and this is a real experience. At first it is a little scary it is really madness on the roads, but you come to realize that this is “organized’ madness and relax with the whole situation. The people are really friendly and that surprised me also.

India is a new destination and worth visiting for those who have been to many places in the world. I think that India is going to become more popular with the increase in the 5 star hotels, and the fact you can eat here and not get sick Americans are going to start visiting in greater numbers. From what I understand just in the last five years the infrastructure for tourists has expanded greatly and it will continue to improve. For those who do not travel much I think other destinations I would put higher on the list.

India is not cheap either. Although it is a poor country for sure the luxury hotels are in high demand and the prices match. I have been told by all the hotels that in October the prices are jumping 25% to 40% Right now a 10 day tour with all hotels, transfers, full time guide, specialist guides in the towns, flights, transfers etc is about $5000 - $6000 per person depending on where you stay. No other way to go.

Ken is going to try to add a few shots. We have just come in from dinner it is 12.30 am and we leave early tomorrow. Delhi was a surprising city better than I had imagined. More on that later

Now everyone cross their fingers that I get to see a tiger.

A few pictures


We just stopped this elephant on the road.

Camels all over the Agra to Dehli Highway.

The Taj, it is so beautiful

Our guide showed us this unique picture opportunity.

As I will probably never make it to India, I love reading every word and seeing every picture in your reports! Thanks Ken and Ngaire for my virutal vacation!
I will cross my fingers for you, I hope you see a tiger, too!

Love it all Ngaire!!! Such great photos too!

WOW! Thank you so much for your reports and photos!

Betty

Ngaire, you are having the most fabulous experiences. Thanks for sharing them. I loved the outdoor dinner you had with torches and floating candles. Ok, my fingers are crossed for a tiger sighting!

Ngaire, I have to admit, India has never been at the top of my must do list. You have really made me think other-wise, but I think I'll do it on a ship...
Thank you so much for the wonderful travel log, I have really felt like I have been there,the pictures were great...thanks again :)

Quick post about Delhi. There is old Delhi, Dehli and new Delhi. Old Delhi is the old town similiar to Jaipur, Dehli is the old part of the new city, and new Dehli I was quite shocked. Looked like the US. Beautiful parks and lots of trees, McDonalds etc etc. They have a government area that is a blend of Washington DC memorial and the Champs Elysees in Paris. We were there quite late so not sure any of our pictures would do it justice. It was a long road with the Goverment buildings at one end and the India Gate (memorial to world war one soliders) in the middle. Had a reflecting pool on one side and then a lake where people were in little rowboats. Green, flowers, big trees. REally appealing.

Visited three hotels here all world standard and one hotel called the Imperial that was truly outstanding. Talk about a modern city this is really lovely. In the main area of the hotels and diplomatic area you can even drink the water out of the tap. We went to a FANTASTIC restaurant last night called OLIVE that could rival any place I have been in the US. All white stucco, food presentation that was so appealing you did not want to eat it. I had Ken take a picture of one of the deserts but we should have taken the other dishes they were just as well done. It all tasted great too.

Shopping - we had 5 minutes because one girl had bought too many things and needed another bag. When I come back I am dedicating a whole afternoon or day to shopping here. Great litle tops with embroidery for $2.50 etc etc etc.

FOund out about another area to view Tigers with tents that rival the best I have seen in AFrica. A first class train for tourists that only takes 3 hours to reach from Delhi. Sure wish I had a few more days to check that out.

They are also building in conjunction with CCA Africa a new game camp in the area we are going to it is under construction now and then will have a flight to bring people instead of our 3 hour flight and 7 1/2 hour drive. That would sure be better.

Okay off to see Tigers.

Thanks again for the wonderful reports!

I hope you see lots of Tigers!

(Why do I keep repeating to myself "Lions and Tigers and Polar Bears, Oh My!" ?)

I am loving every minute of your trip report. I met a wonderful woman from India on our PG trip and it sounds like a wonderful and interesting place to visit............maybe someday!!!
thanks for sharing!!

TIGER SUCCESS!!!

We went on to Bandhavbarg Game Reserve and had time for two game drives, morning and afternoon and saw a tiger both times.

We had the best chance on the first game drive, they only use the elephants in the mornings. The elephants go out early in the morning to find the tigers. IF they find them then the visitors load on the elephants and they go in to where the tiger is located. Signs are everywhere saying, we cant promise tigers, don’t be disappointed, enjoy the beauty of the reserve. Don’t be disappointed if you don’t see the tiger because the tiger saw you.

The process was quite different from Africa. It is a mad dash to first get the route to where the meeting point is to get a ticket to ride the elephant IF a tiger is sighted. The first come get the shortest route to this point. Lots of yelling going on amongst the guides and the government official assigning the routes. Then when you get your route and get to the next meeting place you get the ticket to ride the elephant.

We were in the one of the first jeeps and we were lucky. The guide did not tell us what was happening and we were so excited when we saw the elephants with people on as we knew that meant the tiger was in the jungle. The first group were getting off when we got on. That was a trick you climbed on the elephant from the jeep. Big stretch for someone as small as I am. Once on it was really quite comfortable. Big cushion pad that was easy to move around on. Normally an elephant carries four people this was just Ken and I, why I am not sure but we were delighted. There was a 13 month old female tiger very close only about 150 feet from the jeeps but you could not have seen her without going into the bush area. . She was stunningly beautiful. We were probably about 25 feet from the tiger. She was looking right at us. Such a huge animal and she was young!! The tigers do not attack humans and the noise and people walking around so close would never happen with lions in Africa. The guide said that unless the tiger was highly provoked there was nothing to worry about We had a great “elephant driver” that obviously enjoyed what he was doing. He kept moving the elephant so Ken could get better pictures. We went down into some dips in the terrain the other elephants did not go. I really loved the elephant ride too. While we were watching the tiger it got up and started moving. We followed and then it stopped again. Just as we left it got up and walk up the hill behind us; the guide said the next group may not get to see her as she was headed in an area that the elephants cannot go. Thank goodness we got up extra early to be one of the first jeeps.

The rest of the morning we drove the game reserve. Once the rush of the elephant rides was over the jeeps went out on their own. It is a big park so we did not see the other jeeps. They do not use any communication between the jeeps and co-operate with each other like they do in Africa. So that highly limits your chance of seeing more tigers. A beautiful area teeming with monkeys and the spotted deer and some had really big racks. Peacocks are wild here, they sure are a beautiful bird and we saw a lot of those. Nothing else really exciting, you cannot compare a game drive here to those in Africa. The diversity of the animals and the rangers who share so much information with you make Africa a completely different experience. However, the land had its own beauty and you cannot see tigers in Africa.

Back to the camp for a well needed rest for two hours and then we had lunch which was excellent. The camp was better than I had expected. It exceeded in comfort and amenities many of the camps I saw in Botswana and was superior to anything I had seen in Kenya. Probably of the same caliber that the less expensive camps in South Africa would be. Huge room, permanent structure, large bathroom, tiled floor, antique furniture and very clean. Nothing like Singita and Leopard Hillsn of course.

We left to go on a game drive in the afternoon at 3.30 pm. It was hot when we started out but driving in the jeep cooled it down. We saw more deer, monkeys and peacocks and were heading back thinking we would not see another tiger. The park closes at 6.30 pm. On the way out at about 6.20 pm and almost dark when we saw the tiger. She was an adult female that had two cubs, we could not see the cubs. She was sitting above the road on a ledge about 12 feet high. So close to the jeeps. There were many jeeps there ahead of us as all the jeeps had to leave from this road, all the drivers yelling at each other and jockeying for position to get their passengers a view of the tiger. How that tiger sat there with all that commotion is a mystery to me. Kens camera would not focus as it was too dark. The other jeeps left and our wonderful driver let us stay when all the others were gone but said “hurry”. I guess if they are late out of the park they get are fined.. It was already after 6.30.pm. Ken adjusted his camera to iso 1600, the driver got in the perfect position and Ken could take just one shot then the driver gunned the jeep to leave the park. I got a wonderful views of the tiger and with all this going on I was just focused on the tiger. One of the blessings of not taking pictures.

CCA from Africa is building three new luxury camps here and building an air strip. Once that is in this will be a great place to come for those with a desire to see Tigers in the wild. Right now the effort to get here on a very bumpy road for 7 hours plus a 3 hour flight from Delhi is a only for those with a strong desire to see tigers. There is another park closer to Delhi called Randenborg (not sure of the spelling) with an Oberoi camp with VERY luxurious tents and a tourist first class train to reach the area. About a 3 hour train ride. That would probably be a much better choice right now. The only thing about this area is they don’t use elephants and the number of tigers in the park is not as great. However I have talked to many who have been there and most have seen tigers. In both camps you cannot go “off road” so the tiger has to be close to the road to be sighted.

We looked in the camera at the shots Ken took. The first ones were all blurred as it was too dark for the camera to focus. The last shot looked great. We raced into our room and downloaded to the computer looked at the shot. It was wonderful. The very last shot on our last day was the best of the trip; I am typing this on our7 hour road transfer that we got up at 3.30 am and started our journey at 4.00 am this morning. We have a few hours in Dehli before leaving for the airport to clean up. If we have time Ken will post a morning tiger and afternoon tiger picture.

On the way to the airport we visited the Erotic temples which were really quite beautiful but we were so tired and it was very hot so I don’t think we really appreciated the beauty of the temples. We stopped at the best hotel and got French fries and chicken sandwiches, they were great. The food on the plane is all Indian.

Problem with this type of agent/press trip is that they want to show you as much as possible so it is rush rush rush, no down time at all. We have had a wonderful escort, an executive with the local tour company Ker and Downey uses, who has been with us all through the trip. He pointed out from the time we leave at 4.00 am this morning until we get home to Dallas we will have been traveling for 60 hours. Nearly all of the LCT posts I have done have been in a van transferring from place to place. I have not posted on the people and the rural sights I have seen, The long drive to the game park was through one of the poorest states in India.

The “hosted” dinners and lunches with the mangers of the hotel have been difficult for me. They always want to show off their fine dining Indian restaurant. I can fully understand of course but a problem for me. If you were on your own then you would have no trouble eating whatever kind of food you wanted. The Oberoi’s are the best chain by far and at least in their Indian restaurants they also offer continental cuisine.

However, it has been a fantastic trip and been an eye opener for me. I am so glad I came.

Be back in the office on Monday.

Well done, Ngaire & Ken!! :app: - Michele & Don
(editing: just saw that you downloaded the photos- Awesome! Incredible!)

Hooray, two tiger sightings and Ken got the pics! Thanks for all the reports, Ngaire. Safe travels home.

Have a great trip back!!!

We have sure enjoyed your reports!

AWESOME photos!!!!! Thanks for your wonderful report!

Betty

What a wonderful experience all of this has been for you and Ken!! I just LOVE all your reports and beautiful photos!! Have a safe trip back home. I guess things will sure seem "dull" compared to what you've been doing there!!

Lots of rack of lamb awaits you!!

FABULOUS reports and photos, Ngaire and Ken! Thank you. Safe travels back to Dallas.

All I can say it "what a life!" BUT I know how hard you both work to make life good for us!! Joanna

Thanks for sharing your adventures Ngaire. Fantastic photos too. I am so glad you enjoyed India - I thought you would. It is one of the most fascinating countries I have traveled in. I am lucky in that I get to visit three or four times a year and I always try to take a few days of personal time to explore some of the country. Ngaire certainly has been to some of the best places on this trip. I do agree that the Oberoi properties are wonderful and an excellent option for all of us princess types.

Mary Ellen

Fantastic pictures and report Ngaire! Thank you so much for sharing. It looks like a fascinating country!

Loved the reports and pictures, thank you so much for taking the time to share them. What a fascinating trip.

Dena

Ngaire, thanks for all the great information. I am going to India in December so your report was so much fun to read.

cashcowie posted:
I say: To heck with that; I want to come back as Ken!

Another delightful travelog! When are you going to start offering tours? Also, how were the internal flights, other transportation, etc. ?

Not planning on a group thing for 2007. If I decided to do a group it would be in 2008. Too many other irons in the fire. Will be getting a web up probably after ROAR and will sell India. Since I do the webs myself I have to have the time to pull it together.

The internal flights were excellent. All 737 jets, pleasant service, Indian food that left me cold but a meal on a 40 minute flight!!! Airports varied from good to basic, primarily rated on the ladies restrooms!! Roads vary from reasonably good (good roads just a lot of traffic) to absolutely terrible going to the Tiger Reserve. There is another tiger reserve that does not require the long car ride that I would recommend instead. They are working on some of the roads now and widening one to four lane that will help considerably.

Juicyjuju please be sure you report in from your trip to India. Where are you going???

Ngaire, I'll be going wherever Linda sends me ;)
I'm so glad you are starting to do India. It's perfect timing for me! We are taking a cruise on Silversea from Mumbai to Singapore on December 11th. We would just like to spend about five days in India before we go. We would like to go to Agra to see the Taj Mahal and a couple of other cities. Will you be offering tours there by December?

Certainly we can do that. I should have the web up pretty soon after Roar and we will be handling individual trips just not planning an escorted trip for a while. Best thing is to call me and I can explain the different options for you and figure out what is best in the time you have available. Then Linda can handle all the paperwork.