We are at the Santiago Grand Hyatt for a few hours before our flight up to Calama and Awasi for three nights. The keyboard is Spanish so there may be punctuation screw-ups you can all ignore.

We booked the stay using Fine Hotels & Resorts platinum AMEX program. They upgraded us to the club floor and are throwing in a 50 minute massage. Perfect after a long flight. The breakfast has been spectacular - ham, fresh breads, cherries, artichoke hearts along with the usual pastries, cereal, etc. It has the most amazing pool table I´ve seen in some time. Baroque gilt cherubs cover the burnished wood legs. Ivory insets on the edge. Wow!

Fast facts (not in sequential order)for those of you coming down over the next couple of days:

-Santiago is 2 hours ahead of East Coast Time

-The reciprocity fee is US 131, payable with cash or major credit cards. The line to get the receipts are clearly marked and the first area you see when you leave the plane. Unless you´ve already got a receipt in your passport, just line up, with immigration form in passport, and pay it. They staple it to the back page of your passport. If you don´t get the receipt, they will send you back there when you get to the immigration line.

-Instructions on the plane were one customs form per family. They insisted we each submit a customs form at the point of getting the luggage Xrayed in the customs area. Since we use different last names, we had filled one out for each of us ahead of time.

-Airport exchange rate today was 459 Chilean pesos per US$1. You can exchange US$ currency at a booth after you walk through duty free and before you get to baggage claim. The ATM is outside of the customs hall about 150 yards from the exit. There are three blond wood cabinets. There is a large sign over all of the terminals which reads Santander on a red background. The actual bank is Redbank, a subsidiary of Santander Bank. They take cards with Cirrus or Plus network access, in addition to credit cards.

-Agriculture rules say no fresh foods come into the country. Eat it on the plane or leave it behind. They make a reasonable effort to enforce it. There were three golden or yellow lab retrievers sniffing the checked bags at the carousels. They also Xray all luggage after you leave baggage claim, run by the agricultural regulators. Quick aside: the dogs also roam around baggage claim and sniff the carry on luggage at random. One dog in training sniffed a 3 year old´s Dora backpack. She started yelling at him that he was a bad dog in Spanish and then hugged her backpack very protectively.

-Bring your travel or high school spanish. Basic english is about it.

-To get a cup of coffee: regular coffee = cafe; decaf coffee = Nescafe nada

-Baggage was slow to come off the plane and priority tags didn´t matter.

-Start to finish, it took one hour from landing til we were in the taxi on the way to the hotel. We were on Delta 147 and there were no other international flights coming through at the same time we arrived.

-The car rental booths are inside the area near baggage claim

-It´s standard operating procedure to put your passport number on anything you sign (like a credit card).

-Be sure to keep the yellow stamped immigration slip in your passport. They will want to see it at the hotel and you´ll need it for exiting Chile.

-The swimming pool area at the hotel is to die for. They even have three or four pool floats! A very small bar is in the same booth where you get the pool towels. From your room, you go to floor M2, follow the signs for the spa, take a second elevator to the ground floor and turn left.

-For taxis, there are plenty of signs telling you to use official transportation between where you deplane and when you leave customs. As you leave customs, there are a couple of transport booths (either taxis or hotel shuttle van service). You can pay at the booth either in Chilean pesos or in US$ (about a 10% surcharge on the exchange rate) in cash or with a credit-debit card. I paid cash so don´t know how the credit card process works. They give you a receipt. As you walk out of customs, there is a mob scene of drivers. A porter quickly grabbed our attention, took charge of the trolley, walked us out to the car, loaded the luggage. I spied the ATMS so had Gary get the car arranged while I got the cash. Again, Spanish was the order of the day.

-Chile has left-hand steering wheels, just like the US

-Taxis are small. We had 1 26" suitcase, 2 21" suitcases and a backpack. That filled the trunk. Theoretically, the taxi could take 3 people. I don´t know what they do if there´s excess luggage for 3 people.

-Taxi cost is 16,000 CLP (US$36) to get from airport to hotel. Tip is included but of course you can add to that if you like. The hyatt website wanted 33,000 CLP for airport transit in a Mercedes van. I did not find out if that was per ride or per person. If you are not getting the Regent transfer and there are 4 of you with more luggage, that may be the way to go. I believe the driver would meet you just outside of customs, but confirm that information directly if that´s what you choose to do.

- There was absolutely no traffic from the airport to the hotel. It took 20 minutes to get here.

-There is an ATM downstairs at the Grand Hyatt if you miss the one in the airport (as reported by a fellow guest who just rolled by the computer)

- Weather for the next few days is sunny-partly cloud. Highs in the mid 80s and lows in the upper 50s. Next rain is forecast for Feb. 2


Hope that is helpful.

The shopping center is in between the Marriott and Hyatt. I hope to have time to scout it before we leave this afternoon.

Cheers, Anne

As usual Anne sends practical and extremely helpful advice. Great information Anne have a wonderful time see you VERY VERY soon. I think we should send her ahead of all our trips she is our scout.

The Atacama desert is a pretty amazing place. I haven{t visited Brice but understand it{s like the desert stretching from Great Salt Lake south.

For all you ROAR alumni, I learned our friend from Denmark (Haagen Dazs, courtesy of Marilyn) evidently did get the South American version of the luxury train idea going. It runs from Valparaiso east to the Andes & ends in Pucon.

Heading off for a full day excursion to a big salt flat at 13,000 feet filled with flamingos, vicuya (if any of us have to ask, we can{t afford vicuya wool sweaters) and more amazing landscapes.

Cheers, Anne

For anyone using Regent air, look for a Regent agent at the baggage claim area with your name on a card. We were met there and given a private car ride to our hotel. It was unexpected but wonderful.
Jim

Anne-we are having vicu-rious fun reading your reports and here's an ata-girl for visitng the Atacama Desert (sorry-I could not resist!). ;)

Anne I am loving your "Chatter from Chile" can't wait to hear about your reunion dinner -

It{s already our last night here. Hard to believe. Revelrie is at 5 am to set out to see the geysers north of here and then leave around 3 pm to get our flight back to Santiago.

The best part of being here is a hombre can fully live the hombre experience. Gary{s been off doing lots of guys stuff and is simply loving it. The trip today was wonderful. I am planning to upload some photos when I get back to Santiago.

We opted to take excursions that provided maximum variety of scenery, altitude and animals-desert-exercise-people mingling. First day south, today was east and tomorrow is north. Trip to airport is north and west, so we get a reasonable idea as to terrain.

We met a great couple from Chicago and will join them for dinner. The gentleman here working on menus is a chef with a resume that includes several of my favorite restaurants in New York. We can now gossip about the perfect salsa and the Giants. The cuisine here is based as much as possible on local food. We have liked everything they have served.

I{m finally heading out now to explore San Pedro a little bit. It{s lively and a spot for college backpackers.

More from Santiago.

Cheers, Anne

Anne, just LOVE LOVE LOVE your reports....no matter where in the world you are. You bring it to us so well !! Thanks! Can't wait to see pictures and hear more as ICE begins!

Nobody does it better...Anne's got that magic touch. I'll forward the info about Haagen daazs to Marilyn. Be sure to stock up on San Pedro pooch cards.

So fabulous to read about your experiences at that wonderful place, Anne. Can't wait to see your photos & hear your impressions. We are STILL hoping to get there post ICE on 2/16. We met a couple enroute to Santiago who own a vacation home in La Serena which is on the beach at the edge of Atacama Desert. We have been invited to stay there (We would rent for a week. They are leaving before we return from ICE.) if our plans don't work out at Aswai (sp). Small world. Editing to Add: This is the 1st time we have ever traveled without definite plans set in stone. We are already finding it exhilarating, with a great sense of freedom. We thought we would hold to a set timetable, but we're finding that there are just too many things to do post ICE :)

We are smilin' over reading the news about "Haagen Dazs" actually getting his dream of a railroad built in S.A. He should do a special event for us ROARers after all the fun he had with us! Good intel!

Meanwhile, we arrived today in Santiago, exhausted. It took us 2-l/2 days to get from LAX to Santiago. Mechanical problems galore out of LAX, missed connection in Miami. No surprise. Ngaire taught us well: In addition to cross-packing, we packed 1 set of the several layers of clothing required per person for Antarctica in our carryon, plus all the camera equipment. Who needs anything else?? We simply are not going to miss this trip again for any reason!

Michele and Don - yikes! Glad you are here after all the ordeal. La Serena sounds like a great choice. I{ll bring the map & let you know what some of the choices are for excursions.

Suzie - doh! I spent an hour in town and forgot the cards altogether. Can I blame it on altitude? Thanks for the reminder. I agree - train travel again with Haagen Dazs at the helm would be fantastico with our fellow ROARers.

Cheers, Anne

Glad you arrived safe and sound M and D - wow long trip but now the fun begins - have a ball XXOO

Michele,

I love your freedom attitude. You all are going to have soooooo much fun!!

Anne and Michele, Please keep the reports coming!! We are all so envious and eager to hear all!

Michele, so glad you finally arrived! Thanks for the advice of packing one outfit for the landings in a carryon - I will definitely do that.

Get some rest...see you on Thursday!!

The waterproof pants is the main thing you must have. They give you a parka, and boots but those waterproof pants are a MUST HAVE.

Thanks Ngaire...they are in my carry on!!

Day three starts in the dark of night. Time to see the geysers (pronounced gazers) north of here. Our superman driver, Carlos, is with us again. Oskar is our guide. We all sleep for about 10 minutes until we hit the mud road. Ola! An adventure. The sun starts to rise over the Andes. We spot a newborn vicunya off in the brush with the mother. Then we spot what I think are chincillas (can{t remember the local name). Pictures are all shot .. not enough light. Not to fear .. we make it to the geysers. A remarkable site! Hundreds of steam clouds and bubbling cauldrons of water spouting from the earth. What a site! right up there with the many tourists who are stripping down to bathing suits (those that went further will be in the pay'per'view section of the kodak gallery) and enjoyed the thermal spring. We had a beautiful breakfast near the geysers, then headed to the other hot springs. Along the way, we got more wonderful pictures of the chinchilla, the rhea (local ostrich), a few llama and more vicunya. Several birds were at the hot springs. We headed back to Awasi for a delicious steak lunch. I finally found the bar menu. Much to my delight, they make the wicked Brazilian cocktails. My head is still swimming. We leave in half an hour for Santiago.

All in all, a wonderful day. Now .. back to Santiago.

Cheers, Anne

Cheers, Anne

Really love all the "Chile Chatter!" Thanks Anne!

Did you partake of the hot springs?

In the lounge at LAX new and very modern style, really nice! I have spotted some others that will be on the explorer II with the LCT charter!

That’s all…..

Safe travels, LCTers enroute to Santiago! We're anxious to have you join us!

We spent a great day with Pam and Tom touring the Chilean Maipo Valley, famous for its Cabernet Sauvignons. Pam arranged our day via Santiago Adventures Tour Company, a very good tour company. We visited Paseo del Vino, Perez Cruz Winery, and a wonderful boutique winery, Vina Aquitania, in the foothills of the Andes. Unlike all the other wine tours we've had over the years, we were given personal attention in each winery, including strolls through the vineyards, learning the history of the vines, all the while taking in the beauty and peace of the setting. It was pure bliss to be out there! Lunch was served at the former home of one of the winemaker's. We were greeted with ice cold Pisco sours. YUM! Pam & I could have had many more but managed to control ourselves. It was quite a relaxing day after those drinks and mucho vino. Thanks to the gentle Chilean folks who hosted us. Best wine tour ever. Heaven has touched this country.

Ice'ers, thanks for all the pre-Ice reports.

Nancy

On my way to Santiago. Sitting in the lounge at DFW ready to go. It is a great feeling to know we are on our way. I have my red wine in hand. Looking forward to seeing so many good friends and sharing the magic of Antarctica with everyone. Little pooching may be in order too. Along with a few good meals prepared by the Regent chef onboard.

Andrea came by the office today and she looks fabulous!!! She is on our flight so should be showing up soon.

Well .. the cost of the internet a la Hyatt precludes picture posting, I regret to inform all of us. US$30 for one hour? No way!!

Our motto for this trip has been ¨mucho suarte¨ (probably misspelled) meaning "very lucky". I tried to explain this in Spanglish to Alejandro, who drove us to Calama airport. I wanted to see the last of the llama genus, the guanacho. Aljeandro patiently explained they are in the lower altitude plains in the morning, not the afternoon. We invoked "mucho suarte" and .. wham! .. over the next hill, a subadult, its mother and a third guanacho were waiting for their close-up. Straight out of "Sunset Boulevard" (or perhaps here, Bolivar?)

We arrived back at the Hyatt and enjoyed the tapas at the poolside. Then, time for much needed rest.

This morning, we let Regent hospitality desk know our room number and ambled out to find the subway. We had an entertaining encounter that successfully resulted in breakfast. Fuch´s panera for US$5 or Hyatt for US$50? Easy choice. We studied the map & realized we could take the hop-on, hop-off bus for US$30 and see everything from above ground. OK! I grabbed the walking tour ideas off Fodor´s and we enjoyed strolling most of Santiago. At 2 pm, my hunger alarm went off. We coasted up to El Golf neighborhood and chose a restaurant with what we thought was an $11 lunch. Nope .. turns out that is take-out (Spanglish equivalent: Ticket) for the local offices. Instead, we got a spectacular lunch with pisco sours and abalone. For free, we got to speak more Spanglish with the wait staff about the Atacama desert. Hey, feed me a Pisco sour and I am fluent in Spanglish. We were doing a slide show with the staff. They were dressed in officer shirts, so they grabbed their captains hat to continue the conversation. The best part was when I explained my plans for a return visit to see Punte Arenas, Puerto Montt, Pucon and San Pedro. They tried to ask Gary, who shrugged. "Hombre no comprende" resulted in laughter and a big handshake and greeting, "Mi amigo, Gary!!" We then got to pantomime what happens if you don´t chew coca leaves and try the altitude. everyone understood that part of the non-conversation.

I then found a friendly internet cafe (One hour = US$2.75) with no SD card reader. Oh well.

Dinner is in 90 minutes for the ICE crew to celebrate the FJANDAN reunions.

Signing off for a while. Leslie, thanks for serving as communications secretary. Next stop: Explorer II

A bietot (or asta luego)

Cheers, Anne

Anne,

I'm lovin' your posts!!

Thanks for keeping us all entertained! Bon voyage to all.

Can't wait for the Explorer II reports! I'm going to go to the Regent site and get the itinerary so I know when you'll be where.

Anne, I'm so glad you enjoyed the Atacama desert - we thought it was just spectacular. I'll be interested in your take on the differences between Awasi & Explora. I hope your wait list comes through, Michelle.

We need more reports everyone! Michelle, you and Don are real troopers!