Just to add to a few of Andi's comments - in Sochi if you are accompanied by a tour guide you don't need a visa, just if you want to wander on your own. The downtown, seaport area of Sochi, is a nice place for a stroll, but you need to get away from the center to see anything. We all enjoyed the mountaintop panarama stop, certainly never expecting to be able to pet and hold a lion cub! I was amazed by how green and scenic the whole area is, mainly forested with sparsely settled valleys and tall mountains as a backdrop to the almost turquoise sea. Traffic was a nightmare, though, which limits what you can see in a reasonable amount of time. They have a lot of logistics to work on before they host the Olympics since the venue is about 1 1/2 hours from Sochi proper.

The monastery in Trabzon is a don't miss - you could do that on your own, potentially, but it is quite a distance from the port - about an hour driving. Trabzon is not a port on the tourist/cruise ship circuit and I don't think too many people, and probably no taxi drivers, speak English. Our guide for the Regent excursion was flown in from Istanbul, as were the guides in the other buses most likely. He was terrific and had many interesting stories to tell about his life, Turkish history and politics, the conflict between Islamists and secularists, etc.


We are ready for a sea day today for sure having been on the go for two weeks!

Since it's a sea day and I have packed early (boo hoo), so I can enjoy it and tomorrow fully, I'll offer some retrospective views of the ship and some facts I left out from tidbits here and there..

The Navigator, for those who haven't traveled on her..strictly my opinion...not even that of Doug's...mainly because I haven't asked him...

It is lovely and doesn't feel too small. It feels much like the Voyager/Mariner. I like the fact that you can get anywhere quickly and the staterooms are like the Voyager. What I don't like is that, even though it is small, it doesn't have that large central area where you bump into folks. The library and central sitting areas are small and Galileo's is a destination spot with loud music often playing. So, except at lunch or the pool, you don't run into folks.

I don't find the food as good or offering as much variety as on the Voyager/Mariner. A pleasant surprise was Portofinos. I thought it was very nice for dinner. Compass Rose was only a B+. There was also no effort to integrate regional cuising into the menu, which would have been great.

The shows were nice for a small ship, but enrichment activities/lectures were very few. So much could have been done with ports like this.

This is a very different type of cruise than Doug and I have been on before. It is very port intensive and seems to have a quieter and older crowd. There are a few children on this trip and they have been lovely. I think this is overall an "older" crowd. I've seen no one in their twenties and I don't think there are more than a couple in their 30's. Perhaps only a handful are even in their 40's. This cruise has more retirees than any other cruise I have ever been on before. However, the ports really require some strenous walking and climbing.

Last night, we were talking to one couple and trying to look for some action at 11:45 and we were the only 4 still wandering around the ship, except for 4 other folks having a drink in Galileo's. It isn't bad, it is just a "day" crowd. This means that the port intensity, lack of late night activities and early to bed nature, leads to some of us just passing in the night and not socializing with one another as we have done on other cruises. Some of us are on private tours alone, others with groups, others on Regent tours; some are walking into town by themselves and others are treating the ship as a resort. Ngaire has a standing 2pm pooch party, but those touring were missing it and she added a post trivia version. So, some of us missed those who stayed on board for the 2pm socializing. By the time we return from our trips, it is almost dinner, so there is not a lot of time to meet and greet those who stayed on board. Additionally, we have been enjoying smaller tables so we can get to know one another. When we see one another, we have a really nice and intimate dining experience,and get to know one another, but sometimes we go a day or three without really seeing one another again. Hopefully, we'll finally catch up today...our only sea day. It's been a terrific group of people.

There have been a couple really touching stories that a few LCTers have experienced, but I'll let them tell those stories themselves. I will share a great Regent story.

One couple we met was delayed in LA because of the Lufthansa strike. Lufthansa was no help. This couple had bought tickets through Regent (coach) and got on the phone with Regent immediately while on line. Regent stayed on the line coaching them through the whole process. Luftansa said there were no seats. Regent said there were and told them to tell Lufthansa how to route them. Regent was correct and they made it to Amsterdam. All the while, Regent stayed in touch and told them they contacted the ship to ask for the ship to be held. Once in Amsterdam, even though these folks had vouchers, Turkish Air (the airline through which they were rerouted) said that they wouldn't accept the vouchers and there weren't any seats for them. I guess there were about 4 hours of hell for these folks as they didn't know if they'd ever get out of Amsterdam. All the while,Regent stayed in touch. Turkish Air finally agreed to board them and they got on the flight with only 10 minutes to take off and then there was the problem of luggage. Well, a very good supervisor found their luggage and piece by piece, they identified it and loaded it on the plane. Regent wasn't sure if the ship would wait for them. (We were told that the ship was being held until midnight, but they had only been told 10pm). They finally breathed a sigh of relief and then there was a flight delay of 45 minutes. They were sure they had missed the boat, but they got their visa, collected their luggage and walked out and their was the Regent rep waiting for them. He said "hurry, they are waiting for you." He took all sorts of side streets and they saw the ship at last. He darted in a dark alley and the driver said, " My friend here needs your Passports, please." They were a bit nervous turning over their passports, but they wanted to get on the cruise. They were whisked away to the ship without their passports and were pretty worried. The doors opened and their was "the friend" with their passports and all sorts of smiling Regent faces saying "Welcome, we've been waiting for you." Off they went, tired, happy, luggage intact, champagne in hand. We took off shortly after midnight instead of our planned 6pm departure. Yes, Regent really done everything possible to ensure that they could be there waiting for them. (BTW, these folks were really nice people!)

There were a number of people affected in different ways by this strike and Regent was very helpful. This couple was one of 4 transferred through Amsterdam. There were other couples transferred through Zurich and other cities. Some folks arrived much earlier, but got their luggage days later.

More great reports! Enjoy your sea day.

Thanks Andi, for the "Regent Steps Up" story. Love hearing that.

Working on a few photos in Ngaire & ken's suite while 14 people - 2 tables - are raucously playing their 2nd afternoon game. Every so often Ngaire runs over and updates her spreadsheet of all the results to date...Ralph holds the high score of the week at 126; pooch-master in the lead is Brad.

A few Cappadocia pix:

from our sunrise balloon trip:








the interior of a home built into a a rock - the home has been owned for many generations of the same family - very comfy!

And some from the Sumela Monastery:

And some from Nessebar:

Leslie, thanks for more great pictures. This cruise has introduced me to another area of the world that I hadn't thought much about visiting. Now, I want to go! Although, it does sound like a taxing, busy cruise with very little rest. The picture of Sumela Monestary should be in the book, "The Historian." I'll be sad to see your cruise come to an end.

Leslie, Those are fantastic Thanks for posting them. (Tell Brad hello for me!)

This cruise is not only "port" intensive, it is "photo" intensive, and rightfully (and thankfully) so ----- WOW!

We have never used Regent air, but stories like Regent's assistance with Lufthansa and Turkish Air, combined with the airline industry turmoil and rising airfares may guide us that way ... in fact, for next March's cruise, the DFW-FLL Regent airfare is about the same as booking directly. Cruise lines' airfares may be a true "bargain."

Enjoy, cherish, and savor the remaining time onboard.

Thanks Leslie for your spectacular pictures!
.................
Susan

Sad to hear this cruise is coming to an end, but it sure was fantastic from all the reports and pictures.

Andi - that story definitely was scary! We were on LH just a month ago.

Like Luke, we've never used Regent Air. Maybe they're becoming more "take care of our passengers" oriented than some horror stories I've heard in the past. That was a wonderful story! I can only imagine how relieved that couple felt when they finally were on board!

Enjoy your sea day, can't believe your trip is finally coming to an end. Have loved the seamail and pictures. John has emailed me pictures of Luke and if it's easier Andi, I'm happy to post if you want me to.

How wonderful! Nessabur was my favorite Black Sea port. I would love to do it all again.

Ardis

I sure have enjoyed your seamail and pictures, CAVIARites! Thank you so very much! Safe travels to you all.

Thank you so much for the port reports. We will be doing the Regent tour in Lesvos because the ship departs at 1300. I'm always very careful about doing private tours only on days when I know I will get back to the ship on time. Glad to hear that Regent does such a good job on air. we usually use points to fly and arrive at least one day early. We did use Regent for the last leg of the World Cruise this year(you can't use ff miles for one way). The price for Business was great. We are using Regent air next spring and got a great price on Business non-stop to Hong Kong on Cathay with a return in coach from Seward. Only 7 weeks until we depart. Can't wait. Thanks again for all the advice.

Leslie, those pictures are incredible, especially the ones from the balloon in Capadoccia!

Andi, thanks for the Regent story. Now my interest is piqued to hear the "touching" stories other LCT people have to tell!

Fantastic pics and what a wonderful/caring Regent story! :app:

If you're Titanium level and use Regent air you get a private car transfer from the airport to hotel, even if it's a hotel you book on your own.
Jim

Jim, IF you come into the port day of cruise! How many veteran crusiers do that? There is so little difference between Platinum and Titianium perks, but SO many nights to get from one to the other. I am astounded they don't offer more.

No free cruises on this line, as on some others. I like my perks!

As many of you know, our favorite cruise director, John Barron, is the CD on this cruise.
Here are a few family photos of his new baby boy, Luke, and his beautiful wife (who many of you know)!







Sad to say, this cruise is fast coming to an end. Time to start planning the next one!

Doug

jhp,

I've come by Regent air into the port city several days before embarkation and have had a private car to my hotel which wasn't booked through Regent.
Jim

AHHHHHHH! The Poochers. Looking good. So jealous.

And a people photo, I was waiting for one of those!!

What??No wine???How can you pooch without a nice glass of vino to help ease the pain of landong in the dog house?
Well CAPTAINS will bring it around....hehehe

I'm with you Pat - I need a "pop" for "pooch"

We are at the end of another wonderful cruise. Interesting ports. Time with friends. And learning to play Pooch. Just a few more pictures to share....

Mary Ellen

Jim, Pat, and Nina (our guide in Sochi)



Another view of Ngaire and the little lion cub


Sharon and Dick enjoying the view


Playing pool at Stalin’s dacha. Dick is shooting while Sharon, Brad and John observe his technique.


Sumela Monastery


The aqueduct that supplied water to the monastery (plus some of the stairs to climb to visit the place)


The church and some of the older buildings in the cliff


Frescoes inside the rock church at the monastery

And a few more from yesterday's stop in Lesvos

Ruins of the fortress at Mytylini





Ken, Doug and Andi on the tender


We begin the long trip home today. Fly to London this afternoon - overnight at the Heathrow Hilton - then on to Boston on Sunday morning. Can't wait to see our family (human and feline).

Thanks to our fellow CAVIAR cruise companions for a wonderful journey and to all the LCT group for sailing along with us through sea mail.

Mary Ellen

HOlding a Lion Club! Playing pool on Stalin's pool table! What memories you all will have.

Thanks for all the sea mail and pictures!

John's little boy is so adorable! He really looks like his Daddy.

Our last day was Lesvos. None of the tours sounded as though they couldn’t be done on one’s own, so Doug and I were game to try one of Ngaire’s adventures via taxi. This turned out to be a great idea, as the shops in downtown turned out to be closed from 2 to 5, the fort closed at 3 and we didn’t arrive until around 12:30, meaning by the time anyone got to town, most things were closed.

There were three tours offered. One was a panoramic tour, one was a tour of an Ouzo factory (it probably offered history as well) and another was an art museum tour of their famous painter, Theophilos Chatzimichael who lived in the late 1800s. They are distinguished by their primitiveness but also for their expressiveness and their color combinations. The paintings of Theophilos are difficult to find today and their value has reached astronomical heights. Large art foundations in Europe and America have opened their salons to his works which have been insured by Lloyd's of London for enormous amounts.

The island is large and it is beautiful, mountainous and there is much to see. However, we found out that the closest town round trip can take one hour and a half, without stopping. With stopping, you need at least two hours. The cab ride was not expensive. We paid about $45 US for three hours per couple including tip. To do the island and to see the most scenic places, you need much more time than that.

It’s the third largest of the Greek Islands and seemed to not be as commercialized as other Greek islands we have visited. This island is the island of olive trees. Our cab driver said that there were 12 million of them (another tour bus said 11 million…just say that there were lots!) and they covered all the hills as far as your eye could see. It is also the island known for the best Ouzo in Greece. So, if you are an ouzo lover, this is where to get it. It has a petrified forest and supposedly beautiful beaches, but we didn’t get that far. It also has two of the finest art museums in Greece, one being that of Theophilos.

Ngaire had suggested visiting Eressos, since it seemed the most interesting town. It has one of the most beautiful and dramatic beaches in all of Greece and a line of cafes and restaurants on the waterfront that may remind you of an Atlantic seaside community without the commercialism. The streets of the town of Eressos which border the beach are closed to all automobile traffic and one can walk without fear of being run over. It is also a great place for snorkeling. However, we were told it would take an hour to get there. So, that wouldn’t have left us much time to do anything once we got there.

There are all sorts of wonderful towns like this and we chose the closest, Agiasos, at the advice of a tour bus guide we asked. We seemed to drive through picturesque areas of olive trees for ages before arriving at a very quaint little town built on a slope of Mt. Olympus. Pilgrims come supposedly “in throngs” to this little town from all over Greece. Its name originates from the inscription on the Holy Icon of Our Lady or “we are going to AgiaSon.” Therefore, this is the foundation of the village. Our pilgrimage led us to discover a charming little town full of icons, wooden furniture, fresh olive products, marmalade, ouzo, cheese, oregano and painted pottery. I was delighted to be able to stock up on some local food products, buying ouzo, olive oil, olive paste, fresh olives, and fresh oregano. It was all very reasonable. There is a beautiful church in town and I think another one further up that we missed. The town also houses a folk art museum. There are lovely coffeehouses to sit and enjoy the charm of this little village who seem pleased to see a “tourista.” We were certainly lucky that this little town wasn’t closed like the port town and had a great afternoon.

Our taxi driver surprised us with a stop at the "home" of the famed artist, Theophilos Chatzimichael, which turned out to be a carved out tree. We were treated to a short lecture on his life in this base of the tree cave and how he came to ridicule and fame on the island. We were shown some prints of his art and why he was considered famous for his work. It was an interesting end to the day.

Our half day, especially an afternoon when shops are closed, is not nearly enough time to spend on this lovely island. But it was a fitting end to our last day of our trip…

We had 10 perfect days … weather, people, ports! We are home again. Everything was smooth.
Disembarkation was very civil. At 8, we all left our cabins. We were all requested to go to public areas. The Compass Rose was open for a FULL breakfast to wait to be called, beginning at 9, by color and we all met there and said our goodbyes. For many of us, this then meant either going to taxis or to a waiting bus. Everything was well organized. Our only almost glitch was that our flight left Athens late and we were concerned that we might miss our flight home. But, they held it and our luggage made it intact. We made it through passport control fast…no wait…our luggage came out almost first and we walked right through customs. No traffic and we were home just too fast and back to the reality of unpacking and laundry.

Doug and I will post more photos and stories later. Now, to enjoy our family and pick up the dog at the kennel.

I really recommend this trip to everyone! I think it was one of my favorite trips.

Great cruise with sensational people, wonderful ports and gorgeous ship .... lots of money

Getting self and luggage safely and easily home on schedule ... priceless

Thanks for all of the wonderful commentary and pics. I love the architecture and food pics, and the cub pictures are fabulous.

It was wonderful sharing this experience with all of you!