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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242082 08/11/14 05:42 PM
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pkd Offline
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I love reading about this adventure! And of course seeing Ken's photos. Everything looks and sounds fascinating. Have fun, all!


Priscilla
Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242083 08/11/14 06:09 PM
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Pictures are wonderful and bring back great memories! Today is George jr's birthday as well, but he won't get a glacier martini.

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242087 08/12/14 01:10 PM
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Ngaire Online OP
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Internet is SO hard so I will just keep writing and maybe at some point I can post the write up.

I have not mentioned that our 2012 Antarctica video is playing constantly on a TV channel. Peter an expedition team member was on that Antarctica trip and he is on this trip as well. He said that was one of the best Antarctica trips ever. Perfect weather and everything went so well with the landing at Elephant Island being a highlight. He said he had not heard of another landing since then. It is great to watch. I just saw the part where we were playing cards in the zodiac, not really of course just for fun! Marc and Arlene seem to be in the video a lot. The best being at Salisbury Plains when everyone was in their red jackets and Marc and Arlene were in their regular coats so they really stood out.

Food has been good so far and the lobster was excellent. Anna who was on Regent for a long time is the dining room manager. We will get a picture of her before we get off I am sure many of you will recognize her.

TO GET THROUGH OR NOT GET THROUGH – THAT IS THE QUESTION!
At this evening’s recap we got the news that the area we need to get through WAS breaking up last week but has now PACKED in again. They are delaying our entry into the Northwest Passage by two days so we are making plans as we go. An icebreaker is heading down into that area now to judge the situation. The ice report shows the heavy ice in red and there is a lot of red on the map. However, he was confident we will get through. I cannot even imagine the Crystal ship even attempting this voyage without an ice strengthened hull. So we wait each day in anticipation of the next ice briefing. One thing for sure Silversea wants to get through as if they do not the next two voyages will not be impossible. Not something they want to have happen for sure. Marc has so much knowledge about the area he can ask the really pointed questions in the briefing. That is great!

So we are sailing right now to a town called Uummannaq, and we will be doing a landing in this remote area that revolves around Halibut Fishing. Then in the afternoon we are going to another landing on an island that is an abandoned coal mine area. He announced the name on the PA system but no way for me to even guess how to spell this name. On the way to these stops the icebergs have been great. So many different shapes. They are really beautiful.

Got interrupted active humpback whale on the starboard side announced. Will be back!

Wow I have seen a lot of whales in my travels including bubble feeding in Juneau. This is the MOST active whale I have ever seen. Three big breaches and so much pectoral fin slapping we could not keep count. Lots of fluking too. This went on for about 30 to 40 minutes with not much down time between activities. I assume that this is a teenage whale most likely a male with much energy to burn!

We just arrived at Uummannaq and it looks wonderful.
Many large icebergs all together. They float into this area and get stranded here. I am sure Ken will get some good pictures IF we can ever post them. Totally calm seas again barely a ripple in the water.

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242088 08/12/14 02:05 PM
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Ngaire Online OP
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Uummannaq

Will this little town did not disappoint. Only 120 population and 14 children in the school average life expectancy 60 -65 years of age. Seal meat was drying. There as a tiny Lutheran church painted pale blue inside with two chandeliers and a ship hanging in-between. Not sure if the ship is always between two chandeliers but I was told the ship is traditional.

Lots of brightly colored houses, snowmobiles, and sleds. We walked over walkways and granite rocks to a lookout point where you could see the iceberg graveyard. With the blue water, colored houses, boats and icebergs in the harbor it was a pretty village.

There also many dogs, seems like every house had dogs. The dogs were on long chains but the puppies were roaming around. One of them just seemed happy to pose for us as much as we liked. There were also six puppies we estimated at two weeks old. So adorable!!

So I am being lazy this afternoon and decided not to go to the deserted town and coal mine. Ken went and he can tell me about it.

Not sure if he will get to post pictures internet has been off since yesterday morning and now it seems we have a signal but it is still cutting in and out. I was able to post as you know and I will try and post this as well.

Looking forward to hearing our ice update. As of yesterday 9/10th of the passage is blocked. Maybe we can creep through on the 1 /10th? Let’s hope for better news tonight.

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242089 08/12/14 03:02 PM
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Fingers crossed for good ice news! We have also seen whales bubble feeding in Juneau and that was truly impressive. Are the dogs pets or working animals? Hope Ken has puppy pictures!
--------------
Helen

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242090 08/12/14 03:29 PM
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Ken Offline
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Photos From Llulissat, Greenland:

[Linked Image]

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Mau & Katherine.

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Susan tasting the glacial ice.

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242092 08/12/14 05:50 PM
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RachelG Offline
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Awesome pics. Is Anna going to still be onboard for Sumo? We just love her.

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242093 08/12/14 07:27 PM
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Rachel - Anna just recently returned from vacation so I imagine she will still be onboard.


Betty
Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242100 08/13/14 07:38 AM
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Leslie B Offline
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Love Anna too - she was on our Reykjavik to Churchill cruise last year.

Hopefully that ice will resume breaking up - I imagine Silversea will figure out a way to get through - inch by inch!


Leslie

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242101 08/13/14 08:43 AM
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Ngaire Online OP
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Well we were looking at a wonderful town of brightly colored house that has a population of 1500. However the wind was strong and a bunch of BIG icebergs around the landing was cancelled.

So eight of us played cards - Brayden and Marc won again - what a surprise! We are about to go to a recap to hear the new plans and see what they team has in store for us now.

Ken may get to post some more pictures if this internet holds.

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242103 08/13/14 09:58 AM
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Love reading all about your trip and seeing the great photos, it looks so beautiful.

Is the Anna you're talking about named Anna Van Eeden? What a small world, she's terrific. Remember her well from WC's, Signatures, etc.







Marcie

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242110 08/14/14 06:51 AM
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Ken Offline
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Yes Marcie, she is the same Anna we will try to post a photo.

Well I was confused. With the ice STILL packed on the latest ice report we are making plans day by day and things keep changing as to where we are going depending on the weather and sea conditions. Plan A, B, C etc. The plan is to stay in Greenland until the 16th when we will cross over to Canada.

The report I gave for Uummannaq yesterday was incorrect. I figured that out this morning when they told us we were at Uummannaq today and it looked quite different, so yesterday was actually Saqqaq. None of your would know the difference but I thought I would make the correction because those onboard sure would know!

So we could not land this morning due to the wind and waves at Uummannaq so we headed off to another town Ukkusissaat.
After lunch we landed at Ukkusissat and we had very calm seas. The little harbor was full of fishing boats. Three little girls were at our disembarkation point as we landed. Giggling at us of course. Compared to what we have seen it was pretty upscale. They actually had modern electric street lights over the rocky uneven wet “streets”. Again the brightly colored houses and we were able to recognize a kindergarten, school, clinic and a large building that was probably a town hall. We visited the church that was really nice inside with light pine wood for the entire inside of the church. Again the boat hanging between the chandeliers.

Some interesting facts. 21 school children and 5 teachers. 150 people and 450 dogs! Traditional costumes are stunning. Made of seal skin, delicate embroidery and beading. At Saqqaq we asked about unemployment rate. The answer was "one person" and he is too lazy to work.

During our one hour stroll we saw a lot of kids. Ken got some pictures of a little boy showing off his swing set skills. Linda and I found two little boys with three small puppies. By the time Ken caught up to me and Linda two of the puppies had left and one of the little boys went to get his camera to also take a picture of the remaining puppy. I think that action was actually to show off the fact that he had a camera. Ken got a shot of that too hope it turns out.

It was nice to get off the ship and wander around. All these small communities are alike and yet slightly different.

We are back at Uummannaq this morning. Windy and cold the weather forecast was wrong. So the brave among us, Ken, Russ, Chris and Linda are off ashore. I know that I am not going and Marc, Arlene, Susan and Ralph are not going either. We will play cards. Brayden is still asleep! Love to go ashore but not when it is this wet and cold. Now to see a Muskox up close I would brave anything!

We have internet now but Ken is ashore but hopefully he will get to post some pictures.



Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242112 08/14/14 10:13 AM
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Wherever you are and whatever it's called.... I'm loving the reports and photos! Thank you very much!

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242113 08/14/14 10:40 AM
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Ken Offline
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Humpback Whale Photos:

[Linked Image]

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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242114 08/14/14 11:11 AM
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Ken Offline
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Photos From Saqqaq, Greenland:

[Linked Image]

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Seals drying for winter food.

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Photos from here to the end of the post are from an evacuated mining town.

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Chris is showing off his truck, it needs a little work.

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Graveyard on the hill.

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Linda posing for a photo.

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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242119 08/14/14 08:04 PM
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What great photographs! I love the descriptions of the places that you have seen. Obviously, this is an itinerary where people need to be flexible. I wish that I was onboard with you to experience such unique places. I can't wait for the next update!

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242122 08/15/14 08:09 AM
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Ken Offline
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Photos From Ukkusissat, Greenland:

[Linked Image]
Ngaire & Susan.

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Church.

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Trying out his new camera.

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Musk Ox Skin.

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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242123 08/15/14 08:23 AM
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Ken Offline
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Photos From Uummannaq, Greenland:

[Linked Image]
A little choppy.

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Check out those ears.

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Jumping Rope at Recess.

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Barbara made new friends.

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Local Theater.

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242124 08/15/14 08:27 AM
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Ken Offline
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[Linked Image]
Seal Skin Seats.

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[Linked Image]

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242125 08/15/14 09:04 AM
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jbittle Offline
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The ship models hanging from church ceilings are fairly common in Scandinavia. We even saw one in a Scandinavian church in Honfleur, France.

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242126 08/15/14 09:23 AM
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Betty Offline
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WOW Ken! Just WOW! Amazing photos of such an interesting place. I find that village beautiful. If this is the ice in August, I can't imagine what it's like during the winter.


Betty
Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242127 08/15/14 10:10 AM
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Fantastic pictures! I think that the weather looks refreshing!


Karen

Live long and prosper
Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242128 08/15/14 05:54 PM
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RachelG Offline
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Betty, I was thinking the same thing. No way I could live there in winter. I would die.

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242129 08/16/14 12:01 PM
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Love seeing all the pictures, especially the kids....they're so darn cute and the same all over the world when we take their picture. Hi Barbara & Tim...miss ya!

Thanks for all the great pictures Ken.



Marcie

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242135 08/16/14 10:29 PM
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Nice to see a pic with Barbara, wish we would hear more from you and Tim!

Ken, thank you so much for all the sharing you do with your wonderful shots, for those of us at home. This would be the greatest cruise I could ever pick, all so new and loaded with unplanned adventure and who knows what will come next. At this point of my life, just what I would love. Wake up and see what happens!

Editing to agree with RachelG. No way could I ever live here. Especially if I had to depend on that dried seal meat for my protein. No. Never. Call me a wuss.

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242137 08/17/14 10:18 AM
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petlover Offline
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I could never live there either. I would starve before I could eat a seal or freeze before I could wear a seal skin coat. I sure would have loved going on this cruise though, and so many of my favorite people are on it.


Marcie

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242140 08/17/14 03:11 PM
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Ken Offline
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Photos from the last port in Greenland. We are now in Pond Inlet, Canada and been without internet. We found a computer in the library in Pond Inlet.

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An old friend of Arlene's.

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Very colorful cemetery.

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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242141 08/17/14 03:15 PM
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Ken Offline
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[Linked Image]
Dogs fighting over dinner.

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THE WINNER!!

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Polar Bear Fur.

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Good Bye Greenland.

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242142 08/17/14 04:29 PM
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RachelG Offline
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Love the pics! How is the ice situation?

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242145 08/18/14 08:44 AM
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Ngaire Online OP
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Upernavik, Greenland
Our LAST stop in Greenland today. I think we are all excited to head in the direction of Canada. This town was MUCH bigger with 3000 people. It seemed like New York City after where we have been. Roads and large commercial trucks passing us as we walked from the harbor to the museum and church. There was a flattened area on the top of a mountain that was an airstrip. You could fly in here for a weekend!
I do not believe this is a normal cruise line stop. Since we had to fill in so much time here I think this was the only option. Not as quaint and as enjoyable as the other stops but it did show us a totally different type of town. There appeared to be a large hospital with an ambulance outside, a very large grocery and general store. This store had limited produce, but lots of frozen and canned products. The residents were buying hot dogs, pizza and pastries!
It was quite a walk to the museum and the old church. Once there we realized the town dump was right there. The museum would seem better suited in the main part of town? Of course they probably have few tourists but we did meet one tourist.
A very friendly lady came out of a small house and asked us why were in this town. She said she was so surprised to see all these tourists! There were about six of us there and we explained the situation, that we waiting for the Northwest Passage to clear and having to stop in many Greenland towns to go ashore. She was Swiss and on her holiday and had rented the cabin and kayak. She had planned on going further North but the weather was not good so she decided to vacation in this town. She was here to kayak and said she does not need a guide she does her own thing. We asked where she goes in the winter and she said Whistler, Canada. Believe me the contrast between Whistler and Upernavik is pretty extreme.
So I am back on board and ready for the day at sea tomorrow on the way to Canada and a new ice report. Of course we have Marc with us and he downloads and interprets the ice maps for us so we have our own private expedition leader! A pretty good thing! After a few minutes with Marc I had far more understanding than on the reports from the expedition leader.
CONTINUATION – ON THE WAY TO CANADA
Not able to post the above message as we lost internet as we started to cross to Canada.
Got a bit rough last night but I enjoy that it was SO cozy in bed I am just worry about others who have issues with rough water. It calmed down a bit this morning so we are moving around but it is not that bad. We all feel like we are on a new adventure now and really ready to arrive in Canada for the next stage of this cruise.

We have a corner where we can add a whole bunch of chairs and also spend time together for tea, pre and post dinner drinks and of course playing games. So it has become OUR corner. Some played cards and Marc and I played scrabble this morning. It was a nice relaxing morning.
The ship is doing some good things today. Lectures, a cooking demonstration, and trivia today at teatime and then another lecture.
Ice Issues: Recap is at 5.00 pm and since we have no internet we have no ice report from our personal expedition leader Marc. Sure hope it is breaking up and is starting to show some movement. The expedition leader still insists we will make it to Nome on September 1st. The ice charts make that look a bit difficult. Many guests keep trying to pin him down on HOW we will make it to Nome he just keeps saying he is confident we will make it. Maybe an ice breaker comes into play I think that would be fun. I guess time will tell.
Update on Ice: Bad news the ice has not broken up more in fact it has regressed and looks more blocked than before!
We are not sure when we will get internet back but we can go into the library in Pond Inlet, put a flash drive in USB on the local computers send out some emails and post this write up so that is how we are managing to give you this information.

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242146 08/18/14 08:53 AM
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They post the ice charts pretty much every day on this blog, although I'm not sure how to interpret it, other than red is bad, but I'm not sure what color they can crunch through.

The blog covers stories of different boats trying to make the transit. They aren't talking about the Silversea Explorer, but they did a post a couple of days ago on the Bremen, another cruise ship (sister to the Hanseatic), that plans to cruise part of the Northwest Passage and then sail back to Greenland. Today's post advocates Canadian icebreaker support and references:

"There are some 14 private yachts staged at east and west strategic anchorages looking to make a Northwest Passage transit. There is a tug towing a salvage barge from Norway enroute to salvage and transport Amundsen's ship named MAUD from Cambridge Bay back to her homeland of Norway. And lets not forget a commercial passenger cruise ship scheduled to transit the Passage from Pond Inlet to Cambridge Bay and then exit back to Greenland."

http://northwestpassage2014.blogspot.com/

Position of Explorer at Pond Inlet shown with the blue arrow.

[Linked Image]



Leslie

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242148 08/18/14 05:53 PM
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Thanks so much Ngaire for updating us all.

We have been looking at the ice charts everyday and reading the blogs of other boats in the area to get a sense of what is happening with the ice. This sure is an adventure!

Hope you get some positive news soon on how you are going to get through.

PS.. Thanks Canon Ken for wonderful photos. NiKon Ken is quite envious of your great photo ops!


Sheila and Ken
Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242154 08/20/14 10:57 AM
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Does anyone know where they are?

The ice reports have not been encouraging. I hope things change soon.


Lauri
Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242162 08/20/14 03:31 PM
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Leslie B Offline
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My bet is that they will get escorted by a Canadian icebreaker along with the Bremen. The Bremen started its cruise on 8/18 in Greenland, and is supposed to be in the Pond Inlet area on 8/22, so the Explorer may be cruising around east of the blockage until the Bremen catches up with them.

The per-diem for this cruise was really high, so I would guess that they have some contingency funds in the budget to pay for an icebreaker escort, but I am just speculating.

I wonder when they will be in internet range again?


Leslie

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242164 08/20/14 04:27 PM
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The National Geographic Explorer tried to get through the ice with the help of an icebreaker and failed. http://www.expeditions.com/daily-expedition-reports/176317/ng-explorer/

Conditions in that area at the west end of the Bellot Strait haven't improved much if at all.


Lauri
Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242166 08/20/14 06:24 PM
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Getting a bit worried about the ice as we are on Otaru to Guam. I do have a plan B in mind just in case though, involving hiking in Japan. Just need to know if explorer is going to make it through or not!

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242169 08/20/14 06:34 PM
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We're with you on the Otaru to Guam, Rachel - maybe it is time to look at a plan B, but I think they will get through somehow. Financially it will be a huge expense for them if they don't.

I assumed an icebreaker could do the job ,so it is interesting to read that it didn't work for the National Geo ship. But there are 7 routes through the NW passage so maybe one will look better, plus the National Geo ship wasn't going all the way through, but ending in Iqaluit, so turning back wasn't the big deal for it as it would be for the SS Explorer. Likewise, the Bremen goes back to Greenland or Iceland, not all the way through.

Unlike the Nome to Otaru passengers we will have more notice. And it is possible they will get to Nome later than Sept. 1, but in that case they would most likely put up the passengers in Nome for a couple of days, cut a few days from the Nome to Otaru cruise and start ours on time.


Leslie

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242171 08/20/14 07:01 PM
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If it becomes impossible to get through the NWP, they would have to transit the Panama Canal. The Otaru to Guam trip should be unaffected. The Nome to Otaru trip is a whole other problem.
The Nat Geo ship ended its trip in Resolute and I imagine the passengers who were to board in Iqaluit will instead board in Resolute and then sail the eastern half of the Canadian Arctic back to Greenland.
I think the Silver Explorer is the only ship that needs to go all the way through. I really hope the ice situation changes and soon!


Lauri
Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242172 08/20/14 07:02 PM
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RachelG Offline
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There is a really good hiking company that has a hike in Japan from sept 19 to oct 1. I haven't contacted them yet to see if they have any slots left. Looking at previous years, I think if they don't get through in the next 7 days, it is not happening.

Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL [Re: Ngaire] #242173 08/20/14 07:05 PM
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RachelG Offline
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They would really have to haul butt to make it to Otaru by Sept 19 unless they start really soon.

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