Sampling the smaller luxury cruises
07:03 PM CDT on Saturday, October 8, 2005
By MARIA SMITH / Special Contributor to The Dallas Morning News
Start with oversize cabins, smaller ships, attentive service, fine china and crystal. Add luxury linens, gourmet dining, unlimited wines and mixed drinks, and a butler. Top it off with unusual ports of call, staff members who remember your name, peace around the pools, caviar on the lunch buffet. And, finally, no tipping.
Heaven? Well, heaven on ocean. We're talking six-star cruising, the expensive and exotic sailings featured in slick travel magazines.
Courtesy
Wind Star mixes luxury amenities and fine dining aboard smaller ships.
My husband and I wanted to sample what cruisers get for all the extra money and, most important, whether it's worth it.
Our findings surprised us: The true price of these upscale cruises isn't as high (relatively speaking) as you might think; there are major differences among the lines; and more money doesn't guarantee a better experience.
Smaller is better on Windstar
Sailing is extraordinary. We move in absolute silence through smooth blue Mediterranean waters aboard a 308-passenger, 535-foot yacht. It feels like another century, when sea travel was by schooner, but this voyage comes with the 21st-century pleasures of fine cuisine, intriguing ports and an extraordinary support crew.
The entire experience is like adult camp, where everyone quickly knows everyone else, the ship's staff remembers your name (and your martini preference), and dinners are opportunities to recount the day's activities.
The Wind Surf is small: only six decks, three with cabins. The three top decks offer three dining rooms, two exercise rooms, a walking track, business/Internet center, several lounges and bars, library, boutique, spa and casino. There's a surprising amount of craftily designed space for sunning or reading, or doing nothing.
The 188-square-foot cabins are slightly wider than the norm, and comfortable. The bathrooms are roomy, and each cabin has portholes, which add to the feeling of being on a yacht, rather than a floating hotel.
The cruise line does without formal nights, or any nights that require dressing up. Dressy casual is the norm in the evening. And this freedom extends to onboard activities.
Our ship docked in Ibiza (Spain), Sete (France) and Ceuta (Spanish Morocco), among others – unusual ports that had us checking Frommer's and CruiseCritic .com for information. Other Mediterranean ports on Windstar sailings include Alghero (Sardinia), Mahón (Menorca), Gythion (Greece), Bodrum (Turkey) and Trapani (Sicily).
Why so many esoteric stops?
Because they can. Very small sailing ships can reach out-of-the-way destinations that larger ships must pass by. And better yet, they can dock close to town, which means no tendering is necessary.
The ship provides buffet breakfasts and lunches, with dining available on an outdoor patio that spreads around the pool. Dinner is served in two venues (same cuisine in both, but always different menu offerings). Dining times and seating aren't assigned, and there are many tables for two. The food is sophisticated bistro cuisine with seafood, grilled and sautéed meats, a vegetarian option or two every night, and always a tasty pasta.
It was a treat, being on this small ship, occasionally moving under the power of the wind. We reluctantly left after an upper-end, adults-only, camaraderie-filled week of special stops, special food and special people, on a very special ship.
All three Windstar ships cruise the Mediterranean from about April to November and spend the winter in the Caribbean. Almost all cruises last seven days; itineraries allow back-to-back cruises without duplicating ports. The ships are small (two carry 148 passengers). Discounts frequently lower cruise prices to the $225-per day range. Check with a travel agent or
www.windstarcruises.com. Expect to be spoiled
Sailing on Radisson should come with a warning. After a week (or two) of having your every whim (and even some you didn't know you had) catered to, you will be hopelessly spoiled.
On the Seven Seas Mariner, the food, service, bed and even the butter were an ongoing compendium of services and details that were often small and incremental, but which, together, made the entire cruise luxurious. It was, in a word, serene.
Standard suites are oversize, with verandas. Each has a walk-in closet, makeup area and heavy curtains that separate the bedroom from the living room and the morning sun. The beds are comfortable and feature Egyptian cotton linens. The cabins have plenty of room for sleeping, entertaining and storage. Bathrooms are spacious and include tubs.
Experienced cruisers know that the cuisine sets a line apart. The food was outstanding, varied and beautifully presented. Portions are European-size; diners can easily sample every course without stuffing themselves. And anytime dining means you eat when you want, and at your own pace.
Wine lovers can choose meals based on wines. Each of the four restaurants features a different red and white wine at dinner and, in the main dining room, wines change nightly.
The ship has two specialty restaurants. Signatures offers Le Cordon Bleu cuisine in an elegant setting, and Latitudes presents nouveau international flavors in sleek Asian-themed surroundings. There's no surcharge for either restaurant. And Signatures may be the best restaurant afloat.
The service touches you in many small ways. On embarkation day, luggage awaits in your suite, not in the hallway. An iced bottle of Veuve Cliquot sits on the coffee table. The butler helps unpack and handles any requests. Staterooms are cleaned twice a day. Dining rooms feature French butter, Riedel wine glasses and ample tables for two. Wine stewards circulate at dinner, ensuring no glass runs dry.
Fresh fruit is delivered daily, robes are plush and slippers come in two sizes. Fresh flowers are everywhere, including staterooms. Spa attendants are well-trained and don't push products; lectures are varied and interesting; food and wine demonstrations (including an outstanding cheese tasting) are offbeat and compelling.
My husband and I spent a lot of time in the health club; the fitness instructor was one of the best we have encountered, on or off ship. The entertainment on our cruise was also surprisingly good.
The ship (700 passengers, 12 decks) offers many spots where passengers can "vanish." The jogging track is nicely sized and uncluttered with chaise longues. And the ship is quiet – whether napping in their cabin or lying by the pool, passengers are left in peace. No annoying loudspeaker announcements (ever) or poolside bands mar the serenity.
Port visits were easy with few lines, even in ports requiring tendering.
Six-star lines differentiate themselves by layering extraordinary service on an already excellent product. With Radisson, this makes for a cruise of unparalleled luxury, style and comfort.
Radisson's ships carry between 320 and 700 passengers, most in all-suite configurations. Cruises feature all-inclusive pricing. The line occasionally offers two-for-one deals on its Web site (
www.rssc.com), with prices sometimes in the $255-per-day range. Also, check with a travel agent.
Silversea - the most expensive, but...
We had high hopes for a cruise aboard the apparent ultimate cruise line. Oh, well.
Some things about Silversea were wonderful. Our ship, the Silver Wind, was gorgeous. It speaks of a floating grand hotel, all warm wood tones, polished gold, shiny glass and lovely public rooms.
Service outside of the dining rooms was outstanding. Housekeeping personnel could never do enough, cleaning our rooms twice a day, replenishing Acqua di Parma toiletries and ensuring our refrigerator was stocked to our wishes. Frette towels were always fresh and plentiful.
Shore excursions were marvelous adventures: small groups, luxurious coaches, unique destinations, delightful meals and knowledgeable, friendly tour guides.
And for independent travelers, or for those who had already visited these ports, there was a local representative at each port to suggest in-port activities.
Other nice touches: service staff who remembered your name; bottled water on the excursion buses and jogging track; caviar on the lunch buffet; anytime dining and plenty of tables for two; escorts who accompanied us off the ship at voyage's end through to our individual airport-ticketing counters.
Courtesy
The intimate pool deck on the Silver Wind, is one of the signs of the luxury Silversea cruise line.
So what's not to like? Let's start with the food. The Silver Wind features two regular restaurants, The Restaurant and the Terrace Café. Breakfasts and lunches were nicely prepared and presented; neither surprises nor home runs.
For dinner, The Restaurant featured an ever-changing menu with low-fat and low-carb options. The Terrace Café offered themed dinners (French, caviar, American steakhouse, etc.) A couple of dishes were outstanding, but mostly courses were just nicely prepared with excellent ingredients. The only thing missing was inspiration. The food was good, but boring.
Plus, service was uneven. Some evenings, plates were cleared and courses delivered with assembly-line precision. Other nights, the gaps between courses were endless. Even in the specialty restaurant, with its higher staff-to-patron ratio, service fell short.
The ship is noisy. Rooms are poorly soundproofed, and conversations from adjoining cabins bled through the walls at all hours. The flushing of toilets reverberated like muted thunder. And something we had never noticed on any cruise line was the large vent in the bottom of the cabin door. So if housekeeping did not awaken us with their hallway setup at 8 a.m., the cruise director's daily public-address announcement (at 8:10) did.
Other nuisances: erratic Internet service; a partially closed jogging track; the specialty restaurant's charge for wine; the same wine on three different room service dinners; holding putting tournaments in public hallways; a health-club exercise program geared for the "inactive"; mundane lecturers; a dearth of activities on sea days; and mediocre cabaret singers in the theater.
Given the buzz, we were expecting to be dazzled, and occasionally we were, but in some of the critical areas (such as food), we were disappointed.
Silversea charges a significant premium for its all-suite configuration, all-inclusive packages, and small ships (two ships carry 296 passengers; two others carry 388). It advertises prices that probably scare off most cruisers. Internet discount cruise sites do offer price reductions. For best deals, check with a travel agent, or the line's Web site (
www.silversea.com). Even with the rare 50 percent discount, cruise-only deals, cruise prices still hover near $400 per day.
WORTH THE PRICE?
Prices might scare many away from considering Radisson or other luxury lines. But let's compare apples to apples.
I priced seven-day November Caribbean cruises from Fort Lauderdale on Princess' Caribbean Princess and Radisson's Seven Seas Voyager. As Radisson's Voyager is all suites and all balconies, I priced the equivalent cabin on the Princess ship and went from there. (It's possible to get a smaller inside cabin on Princess, which will cost less.) These results show the daily premium is about $100 per person. That buys a smaller ship with more luxury, better food and more attentive service. You have to decide if it's worth it.
Here are the details for two people:
WHOOPS THE LAYOUT DID NOT COPY OVER CORRECTLY. I WILL TRY TO MAKE THIS CLEARER
Caribbean Princess
Mini-suite (324 square feet, including balcony)
$2,398.00
Radisson Voyager
Class H Suite (356 square feet, including balcony)
$ 4,496.00
Staff gratuities
Radisson Voyager - Included
Caribbean Princess - $140
Wine (bottle with dinner)
Radisson Voyager - Included
Caribbean Princess $280
Soft Drinks (unlimited)
Radisson Voyager - Included
Caribbean Princess - $30
Health Club (extra classes, assume two each)Radisson Voyager - No charge
Caribbean Princess - $40
Specialty Restaurants (both lines have two)Radisson Voyager- No charge
Caribbean Princess = $70
Evening cocktails
Radisson Voyager - Included
Caribbean Princess - $84
Bottled water at ports
Radisson Voyager - No charge
Caribbean Princess - $16
Computer class (one each)
Radisson Voyager - No charge
Caribbean Princess - $20
Special cappuccino in the lounge (one each, daily)
Radisson Voyager - No charge
Caribbean Princess - $35
Total
Radisson Voyager $4,496
Caribbean Princess $3,113
