Part 3, the trip and the islands

First let me remind readers that we have done the 7-day Societies itinerary 4 times before, so are used to the rhythm of that trip. This trip, being 14 days, with the trek up to the Marquesas was quite different. But we loved it. And the weather cooperated--it's supposed to be the best time to go to the Marquesas, and we had really amazing weather. Two rain storms, both less than an hour. Hot in the Societies, not great for hiking, but fine on the ship and in the water, although even on the ship the pool deck was very hot at times, and I gave up any idea of any meaningful exercise.

The Itinerary in a Nutshell

Bora Bora

First stop was Bora Bora, where everybody got their first immersion in the islands. It's a great place to start, since newcomers begin to realize they're not in Kansas any more!

Then we did the haul over to Rangiroa, which is really two half sea-days, arriving about noon. The transit through the pass is fun, and lots of people saw dolphins (not us.) It's definitely a water island.

Then a sea day up to the Marquesas where the serious fun began, one island per day.

Fatu Hiva first, the most remote, and awesomely beautiful. The Bay of Virgins. Wow, only 500 people.

Ua Huka, the dessert island, full of horses and goats.

Hiva Oa, the Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel island.

Nuku Hiva, the most populous, and the Hermann Melville Island. If you go there, make sure to read Typee.

Then two blissful sea days, going across the Marianas Trench, 36,000 feet deep!! Sea like glass at times!

Then Motu Mahana!! This was great, as usual, but it was fun having it at the end of the cruise instead of the beginning.

A day in Moorea, and that was it!

Itinerary and Excursion Details

Bora Bora

We overnighted there, so I had time to get in the water. I went to the motu and beached myself, then David and I did the stingray feeding for the third time, and it was still great.

Hardly any time to shop, so I didn't buy a thing there, although noted that prices have gone up (along with excursion prices, ouch!)

Oh, and Mariner shared the lagoon with us for a while, and visits were traded back and forth between the two ships one afternoon. We didn't make it, but lots did, including Claudia, the Cruise Director, whose husband works on Mariner.

Rangiroa

Definitely a yachter's and diver's paradise. We didn't get in the water, got lazy and I swam in the pool. We did do the black pearl excursion, which was interesting, but not nearly as good as the one we did on Manihi 8 years ago. Lots of folks made purchases that day, however. I love looking at pearls!

Pretty water, mostly a water destination, for sure. Lovely transits through the pass.

Sea Day

Uneventful. But this is the day that we watched a documentary film on the Marquesas and spotted Ngaire and Ken walking into the Arboretum on Ua Huka. Shot from the back, but still completely identifiable.

Fatu Hiva

Our favourite Marquesan island, I think. We didn't do an excursion there, but just wandered. We missed most of the performance put on by the natives, but heard it. People watched, shopped, didn't make it to the waterfall because it was too darned hot! I finally bought a tapa cloth there, and then lost it in LAX--David says that means we have to go back! The entrance to Hanavave (the Bay of Virgins) is spectacularly beautiful. With a population of only 500 people, life seems pretty calm and relaxed there. The shore is mostly rocky and wild, although one guy actually went out snorkeling in the bay, by himself.

Hiva Oa

We did 4x4 excursions on the remaining 3 islands. Hiva Oa is the Paul Gauguin island, where he lived. We were taken around the island to see a marae and some tikis, then to a church with a beautiful lookout on a beach. Then back for shopping opportunities (natch). We didn't do the Paul Gauguin museum, or go to the grave site, or visit the Jacques Brel museum, just wandered the shops and then headed back to the ship. Very lush and pretty island, and quite large. We obviously saw only a small part.

Ua Huka

A desertified island. Much of the original tropical vegetation has been destroyed by goats, introduced by the Russians some centuries back. Beautiful red sandstone-like hills and cliffs. Valleys are tropical and lush, hills look like part of southern California, the shorelines like Big Sur. Lots of wild goats, and mostly domesticated horses. We saw uninhabited valleys where there used to be villages--Mark Eddoes alert! It was Sunday, and everybody was out and about in their shiny 4x4 trucks coming and going to and from church. This island is known for its wood carvings, of which we saw many. I bought a beautiful rosewood cheeseboard that I've already put to use. I'm already wishing I had a whole set of them.

Seas were a bit choppy that day, so the captain made the decision to move the ship, making the tender ride back a bit longer. As on the other islands, brave souls walked and bicycled out of town, up and down the hills, in the heat.

One of the stops was the Arboretum, which was lovely. Trees, especially fruit trees, of many varieties. Star fruit lying on the ground, mangoes and papayas all over, a grove of citrus trees. This is where we had our little deluge. We waited in the little reception area, eating fruit, watching the locals, and examining the wood in the wood musueum (yes, I said wood museum.) This is where I confirmed that my cheese board is rosewood. Anybody know how to prevent it drying out and cracking in our awful climate?

Nuku Hiva

The most populous island in the Marquesas, 2500 people. I had read half of Typee, by Hermann Melville, then promptly left the book in our hotel room in Papeete. A must read if you take the Taipivai valley trip, which we did. I would imagine this would be the easiest island to get to and stay for a while, since there is better infrastructure. The trip took us up from Taiohae across the island to the north east, through the valley. High up with lots of switchbacks, and amazing scenery. We saw the valley where Melville was (allegedly) held captive. This trip included an English-speaking guide, who lectured about what we were seeing at scheduled stops, like the top of the valley. Wonderful. We ended up on a beach in a pretty bay, around the corner from where Survivor was filmed.

A highlight of the trip was the cathedral, built from rocks taken from six different Marquesas islands, and full of wood carvings. Very beautiful, in a lovely setting. Again, lots of horses, well-taken care of for the most part.

This would be a great island to have a motorcycle. But alas, you can't rent any. And it's difficult and expensive to rent a car.

Sea Days

Two glorious seadays ensued. Highlights included going across the Marianas Trench (depth 36,000 feet), a few hours when the sea was almost like glass, and sunset over Bora Bora. Hours spent on our lovely verandah, sleeping, walking the deck, you get the idea. We arrived in Taha'a the second evening, raring to go for the next day's adventure.

Motu Mahana
Ah, the motu day. Great weather, and I kayaked finally--great way to see the fish, very relaxing and easy. Since we were near the end of the cruise, everybody was pretty relaxed.
Lots of friendships had already formed, so the group was easy-going and familiar, and had already gotten used to the sun.

The coral was not in bad shape; there were sufficient fish to see, and some active coral heads, although all the coral everywhere is in distress. I spent a huge amount of time in the water that day, and had no bones left in my body when we got back to the ship on the last tender. The last folks on the tender were hauled out of the water minutes before it left.

Then we had a real treat. A sail-past of Taha'a, with the late evening sun shining on the island. The band played on the pool deck, and everybody ogled the beauty of Taha'a and then Raiatea on one side, with Bora Bora in the distance on the other side, beckoning people to return. This was a magical moment for many people on this cruise. By this time it was getting tough to get dressed in time for dinner, what with sunset gazing and pina colada drinking by the pool.


Moorea

With one day only in Moorea, it was tough to choose what to do. We've been there lots before, but Jim, on his first visit, chose to do the waverunners. He was very happy he did that. He saw lots of the coastline, had a blast, and was impressed with the beauty of the island. It's now his favourite, as it still is ours, at least of the Societies. We did a catamaran and snorkeling tour, and I must say it was the best snorkeling of the trip for me. Lots of fish, spaced-out coral heads with nice white sand between. One person, however, spotted crown of thorns starfish, the culprit currently preying on the coral in Moorea. The sailboat was pleasant, nice to be out on the water.


Excursions in general

The excursions in general were well run. Beware, however, the prices are way up. The excursions on the Marquesas are pretty well limited to 4x4 trips around the island, with a French-speaking driver, and no guide (the exception was Nuku Hiva where a guide accompanied the jeeps). These trips in particular are pricey, but very worthwhile. If you don't have any French, read up on the island so you know what you're seeing. Other ways of getting around are pretty limited and pricey.

Again, the weather, the itinerary, the people, but most of all just those wonderful islands made this trip magic for us. Feel free to ask questions.