GREAT report. Are you sure your guides name is not Shee-Han. They must be related!!! There is SO MUCH TO SEE here and it really does get tiring.

Any power shopping at Philae? We were on the boat going to the island with one of the local merchants going to set up shop for the day "lucky morning price". This is where Linda and I got into the whole beads for "almost nothing" shopping. This is the picture on the head of the CAMEL page.

So much is still ahead of you!!!. Cannot believe you have the Trition all to yourself. WOW. Will you be spoiled. When we went we were on the Salacia and it was completely full. Our fellow passengers were almost all Germans, luckily there was no boot room as on the Hanseatic. At that time the Trition was chartered.

If I was ever to go back to Egypt with a group I would love to charter the Triton. I think this would be a great fun.

The Salacia was nice and has just been fully refurbished so I am sure she looks good now. Sad to hear there are not enough bookings, Egpyt is certainly hurting for tourism and it is such a fascinating destination.

Poor Gary, give him a big hug from me I hope he starts feeling better soon. Nothing so frustrating as being on a wonderful trip like this and being a bit under the weather. Once you get on the Nile part of the trip he can rest. It is very relaxing sailing down the Nile watching the farmers and seeing all the sights on each side. Always something to look at and wonderful kodak moments. PLUS you can do it all from a relaxing chaise lounge!!! Maybe you can feed MarkA grapes as he lounges, in true Cleo style???

Keep the reports coming Anne - so anxious for your next installment!!!

I found this description of the Triton which is 236 ft long:

The Triton has been converted from a vessel for over 100 guests to one that now caters to 40.


The vessel has heated indoor and outdoor swimming pools tiled with handmade glass mosaics. The spa is equipped with sauna, steam room and Jacuzzi. A professional masseur is onboard and fitness equipment is available. The crew of 60 staff serves 40 guests with a ratio of 1.5 staff members per guest.
---------------------

Amazing that you have it to yourselves! Love the reports!

The interior of the Triton looks wonderful! Anne, I'm loving your account of the trip so far, but I'm exhausted!
http://www.capecairo.com/egypt/nile_cruises/triton.html

Cleo,

I am loving every word! So many of us LCTers are with you and marc A in spirit.

Also, two of the "four corners" group appreciated your thinking of us!

Cleo,

Another terrific report!!!!! Keep 'em coming, please. Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy!!!!!!!!!

So glad you're able to take it ALL in, Cleo! I am lovin' your trip! Thanks so much for keeping us with you. You're funny...we Four Corners characters would definitely be pushing the envelope towards the Sudanese border! :eek: Sure hope Mark A gets to feelin' better.

Thanks, everyone. I'm trying to upload some pictures in www.kodakgallery.com user id cruise@yahoo.com password cc. I don't have time to put on the captions, but at least it will give you an idea.

Egypt is hurting for tourism from what I can see. In general, the Egyptians have been gracious, deeply interested in seeing we are having a good time, thrilled to even hear us try one or two words in Arabic, and resourceful. I believe the massive use of metal detectors are serving a second purpose as doorbells.

Cheers, Cleo

Sounds absolutely fascinating. Keep the reports coming, they are GREAT.
Lynn

http://www.bkafrica.com/E_Triton_Cruise_Ship.htm

This is a link from my web on the ship Cleo and MarkA are going to be sailing on down the Nile. The list of celebrities that have sailed on this ship is pretty extensive. It really is lovely and the main lobby bar and circular stairway is quite dramatic.

I looked at your pictures Anne, great, love the guy on the donkey!!!

It's gorgeous! Cleopatra's standards are very high :woh: I'm impressed and envious.

:woh: is right! I'm so there!!

Wonderful photos, Cleo! Your reports continue to deepen my color of green!

Wising you and MA more awesome days to come!

Cleo,
I love reading all about your trip! I sure hope Mark A is feeling better. We're not going to be missing each other by much....Keep 'em coming!

Wow, I'm tired just reading about your days! Thanks for the updates! Hope the hibiscus tea helps Marc A's cough.

Da Queen has asked her loyal servant to post the next installment of "Cleo and MA's Capers" for her. Ask and I gladly obey -

Ambling through Abu Simbel

Yesterday's adventures were the best yet. We got up early and checked out of the Old Cataract hotel. I learned cataract is the arabic word for water fall. Off to the airport to see Abu Simbel. Meged the Master forewarns us to step lively so we will have maximum time to see the temples. It is HOT down there. The temples are both an archeological as well as engineering masterpiece. The Egyptians moved the temple, with a lot of financial and engineering help, before they put in the new high dam. What a contrast to what we remember from China's decisions with their ancient sites along the Yangtze. So far, it is clear Meged is grateful the USA has provided so much of the money to preserve Egypt's great treasurers. Abu Simbel is one of many projects he's mentioned where the USA has been very generous with money, time and talent.

I regret I cannot load more photos as the Internet on the Triton is fast but it's US 10 equiv for 30 minutes time. The connection doesn't hold that well and the 8 photos took 40 minutes to load on a fast connection. I'll try when I get to Jordan.

After we return from Abu Simbel, we boarded MS Triton. Sure enough, this is Cleo and Marc A's return barge trip up the Nile. The ship is stunningly beautiful. Ngaire, we must figure out a charter for the LCT and friends crowd. It is a perfect ship. Lunch was delicious and crazy generous. "Help yourself to the salad buffet". Hey .. there are TWO of us on board. No matter .. it's in the program and that's what they will gladly do for us. After lunch, they took our dinner orders. The accountant in me thought that was a good idea.

I have switched to cocktails this trip as the wine is horrendously expensive if it's imported and the Egyptian wine is so-so. Then again, how can one resist Omar Khayyam Cabernet Sauvignon? At the Old Cataract, you get a slight price break if you order from their set cocktail menu. The funny part is they don't necessary know how to make the drinks on the cocktail menu. I opted for a Tom Collins. I got four different versions (only one tasted close to what I remember) and every bartender told Gary they don't make that drink. Well, three out of four were truthful. I began to see this is the perfect "stump the bartender" drink in Egypt.

The staff is all male, and we are definitely in Muslim culture. The men only talk to Gary unless I ask something directly, and that's done out of respect. The bartender, though, figured out in about 30 minutes I am Da Queen. It's good we got that straightened out right away!

I tried the Tom Collins routine again on board. I am five for five now in stumping the bartender. Vodka tonics are easier for all of us, so that will be Cleo's drink the next few days.

We were offered an add-on tour to see a Nubian village. The village visits were some of the high points from ROAR, so we signed on. It was grand! We took a motorboat to the village about 1/2 an hour away, and what a feast for the eyes! The Nubians revel in color, art and all kinds of objects. Not a one of them wore eyeglasses. The men often work away from the families, and the grandmothers keep it all together for the women and children. I got a hand-made woven shawl. Ngaire, I found a Nubian headdress (don't know if it's the same you & Linda have) and got it to go with my Blue Demon Nubian dress.

Dinner was 8 pm and was also very good. Lights out around 10 pm. We set sail this morning at 6 am and had the option of breakfast in our room, on the sun deck or back in the restaurant. The winner is .. the sun deck! After that, two temple visits during the course of the day and lots of time to relax and watch life along the Nile.

Cheers, Cleo

Life doesn't get much better :) So glad you found a proper headdress to compliment the Blue Demon...looking forward to seeing that ensemble formal night on FJORDS.

Carry on O Queenie

Gliding down the Nile, I love that image Cleo. The visit to the Nubian Village sounds fascinating. Hope to see you in formal Egyptian, Queenly dress on FJORDS. You could sing "Walk Like an Egyptian" on kareoke night :app: .

Denise, you make a great loyal servant!

.... :nw: Cleo & Mark A. THIS is quite an image!

So glad to hear from you Cleo. I cannot believe you have that whole ship to yourselves. That will be an unbelievable experience. Yes, I remember the wine, I did warn you about that. Drinks are not where the Egyptians excel, but trying their wild efforts is a hoot. We basically gave up and had beer or sparkling water most of the time. I did not have time to go to a Nubian Village, I am sure that was really interesting.

Abu Simbel was probably the temple that impressed me the most. I loved it. HOT - wait for the Valley of the Kings in the real desert now that is hot. Entering the toombs provides some relief.

Karnak and Luxor await you!! They are stunning also.

I dont want your trip to end it is such fun to read your reports each day!

Just thought I would let you know why we have not heard

Ah I am missing my reports from Cleo and MarkA. Got up this morning and ran to my computer hoping to read another installment.

Cleo called me on Friday and said the internet on the ship was sporadic and kept going in and out so I am sure that is why we have not heard.
She told me some great stories but I wont post here as I am sure she will tell them far better than I can.

Whew! Cleo and Marc A have now arrived in Amman, where all the buildings are made of white stone and, to paraphrase Garrison Keiller, all the children must be above average.

I am deeply indebted to my loyal subject Denise for passing along my last update. I did another update, only to have the internet connection go out approximately 5 seconds before I pressed the "Add Reply" button. Aaarg!

The trip up the Nile was marked by each experience being better than the next. The first temple featured the crocodile god Sobek, who figures in the Egyptian Evil Empire crowd. Sure enough, we had the Guide Gladiator Games break out. There were two river boats overflowing with European guests, and Meged the Master with the two of us in tow. The jousting was fierce around the Egyptian version of the Palm Pilot organizer, and of course Meged was the winner. Then we took on the race to the back of the temple, where the groups were getting first the explanations in Italian and then in German. Each guide tailored their explanations; for the group of 50, much of the time was spent rounding up the guests and little on explaining the key scenes of temple carvings.

Next we went on to Edfu, where we appeared in between the large groups. We had the temple to ourselves, and got a clear picture of the inner sanctum. Meged says that photo op is available about once a year.

Back onboard, we lazed on the sun deck. I found "Death on the Nile" in the bookcase. What a perfect setting for reading the whodunit! Another lovely dinner a deux, a nightcap and on to our next adventure.

We made our way up to Luxor, where the Karnak temple complex simply took our breath away. We went back that evening for another perspective during the sound and light show. A cranky Brit was muttering "why don't they just name it walk amongst illuminated ruins?" so she obviously expected something different. We returned to an Egyptian dinner, so I broke out my Nubian Nymph look. The folks on board were thrilled we were going native in a hurry.

I went looking for the hot tub, only to find a bird trapped in the gym. I tried to set it free, which turned into half the staff helping me corner the bird for release. They could not figure out what I was doing, but we all got a workout. Once the bird was successfully freed, I returned to the sun deck to have a cold drink. One of the deck hands came up to me, with the bird in hand. He was so anxious to please, he thought I wanted to keep it. Too funny!

The last day was the visit to the Valley of the Kings, Queens and the temple of Hapshepsut. This was Gary's most memorable visit. The paintings in the temples are sporadic; the tombs sparkle with complete paintings in fine detail and brillant color. In China, the paint on the terra cotta warriors had faded significantly within about 40 years; it's more than 3,000 years and the colors are still vibrant. Amazing!

We had a gala dinner awaiting us. The chef proudly carved the full tenderloin of beef after we finished our Red Sea lobster first course. He put great care into preparing a memorable meal for us. Finally, the ship actually brought a belly dancer and whirling dervish (Egyptian style, not Sufi style) for our entertainment. They lit up the disco just for that show. We had a blast. I'd post pictures but they are complete fuzz from all the flourishes the performers incorporated into their acts.

We left this morning and spent most the day in transit. Marc A received his keffiah (?) headdress upon arrival in Jordan. We are touring historic sights outside of Amman tomorrow and then arriving at Petra for a two-night stay.

More later (I hope), Cleo

All I can say is WOW!!!!

What an adventure, Cleo! Exciting that you're discovering Amman & its environs.
.... Can't wait for news of Petra!

adding: Chirp! Surfer & Sandy are wondering if you're going to bring THAT Egyptian birdie home with you!!.. :(

Wonderful! Can't wait to see Luxor...my anticipation peaks! I know a 'Whirling Dervish' Her name starts with an "S" :D :app:

So glad to get your report, Cleo. We've been missing you.

You and Marc A are really having quite the adventure, and getting a bit spoiled in the process. You are planning on coming back home, aren't you? lol

Keep exploring and keep reporting, PLEASE!

Spoiled is so right, Betty. We were commenting at dinner tonite that we not only turned our watches forward one hour between Cairo and Amman, but also went through time warp of about one century.

The hotel here is magnificent with a nice view of the al Hussein mosque. The guests and employees are sophisticated and I have yet to see a woman in a veil. I can't quite describe it, but it's also sterile vs. the rhythm of life we experienced in Egypt.

We find ourselves really missing Da Boyz (Meged and the cruise staff) this evening. In Egypt, we committed at least five international faux pas, lacking sufficient understanding of one another's cultural norms. Their cultural norm is to find a way to recover from it quickly, thank goodness.

Marc A was introduced to the phrase "en shel Allah (? sp)" used all the time in Egypt. It means "God Willing". It's the universal response to a direct question about anything to happen in the future. What a useful phrase. Not only does it keep you humble, it's the perfect excuse if stuff gets screwed up. By the time we left the ship, he was a master of "en shel Allah".

In return, Marc A shared some American cultural wisdom with Meged. Meged has a good sense of how to walk the line between caring for clients and respecting his family. Nonetheless, you can appreciate if he's on the Triton for four days and his wife is at home alone, this can create tension. Marc A introduce Meged to the creed of "What happens in Vegas, STAYS in Vegas!" It was a breakthrough moment.

Conclusion: Egypt snuck up on both of us and captured our hearts.

Sandy and Surfer will be pleased to know I liberated the bird a second time and it did reach land safely.

We will resume our scouting assignments for CAMEL at 0800 hours tomorrow. I found a spot on the Dead Sea near one of our stops tomorrow where not only Cleopatra but also the Queen of Sheba were reputed to hang out. That may get negotiated into our tour today. We got a great brochure of stuff to do in Jordan. I'll try to scan it & send it on to those interested as a PDF file.

On Thursday, we'll visit Wadi Rum all day, then start the 0 dark hundred schedule and make the long trek home.

Cheers, Cleo

HI Cleo, just loving all of your reports.

While I haven't travel extensively like you, I have been to Petra! You are in for an amazing treat! Petra is the most incredible place I have visited.

Best, Nancy

Seems like you just left, Anne! Looking forward to the Petra reports!

Long trek home??? Say it isn't so, Cleo!

Hoping that one day we can personally experience this fascinating journey - "en shel Allah."

Can't wait to hear about Petra. Have an amazing time!

Anne, I have loved your reports. Nice reading with my morning cup of coffee. I know Petra will be an awesome experience. After reading your trip reports, I want to go to that part of the world. Have a safe trip home.

I have really enjoyed your trip. What an outstanding destination. Thanks for letting us travel with you.

Dave

Thanks for traveling along with us! It's been most enjoyable.

For my Four Corners friends, if you did this trip right, you'd get Saudi Arabia, Israel, Syria, Lebanon and Iraq stamps in your passport if you started early enough in the day. Denise, we passed by the Crowne Plaza in Amman. It must have at least 25 antennas on its roof. That must be the place to stay!

Our hotel, as I mentioned, is magnificent. Our fellow non-smoking guests, however, were not. 2 am this morning, I hear them yelling in their best American accents "HOW DO YOU SAY HELLO IN ARABIC?" After 10 minutes of "merbuhoo? no, MER-Ha-Ba" I was thoroughly awake. The 7 am wake-up call came much too soon.

I was so frustrated I said something on check-out. Jordan had suffered terrible losses at two hotel weddings a few years ago from humans sporting bomb belts, intent on dispatching themselves and as many others as possible to the pearly gates in one fell swoop. As a result, security at hotels is extremely tight. The front desk indicated security would deal with our boisterous floor mates. I had little doubt they would.

We headed off to Jerash, one of the ten Roman cities between Rome and present day Israel. Way back then, they used size of the columns to indicate importance to the citizens of various locations in the city. The bigger it is, the more important. It is well preserved and the highlight of today's visits.

We moved on to Medaba, where a 6th century mosaic floor is a detailed map of the whole area. The mosaic floor was re-discovered in the 1890's; at that time, a Christian Greek Orthodox church was built over the floor. We finished up at Mt. Nebo, where Moses viewed the Holy Land before he died. Pope John Paul II visited Mt. Nebo in the year 2000, and there's a memorial statue in honor of that visit. More spectacular mosaic floors are in the Franciscan church at the site.

We ate a quick lunch, bought a few mosaics and some Dead Sea beauty products, and proceeded to fall sound asleep for the first half of the three-hour drive to Petra. The Desert Highway is divided two lane and hypnotic as it passes from greenery to desert dunes. We turned off and picked up the lower part of the King's Highway, which is populated with lovely views, steep ascents and descents and a four-lane highway.

Marc A was trying to lobby for a trip to the Dead Sea once he saw it from Mt. Nebo. We'll have to file that idea for a return visit. Distances sounded short to me on this trip; in actuality, they are not. CAMEL participants, Petra is about as far as you want to go. There's only Kerak about 90 minutes north of Petra to add to the visit.

We arrived at the Movenpick in Petra around 5 pm and were given an upgrade to a full suite from a junior suite. It is a lovely property. The ceiling in the main bar is a sight for the eyes. I hope to get a decent picture.

The hotel advertises happy hour but does not seem to understand how to do it for the guests. Oh well ... no big deal.

Tomorrow it's Petra. We can't wait. Dinner at 8, belly dancer at 8:30 and off to bed for an 8 am wake-up call.

Cheers, Anne

Love sharing your journey and anxious for your Petra report.

Another fine report, Cleo! Sorry to hear about your 2:00AM disturbance.

A Crowne Plaza in Amman, you say? Will be looking into my employee rate there ;)

So looking forward to your report on Petra. Have a grand and glorious time!

I am howling!!!

Petra Pilgrimage

Executive Summary:

One of the most spectacular places I've ever been. It's one of those places where the pictures can't do it justice. You've just got to go to experience the whole environment. It's about 3 miles from the entrance to the park to the lunch stop. Once again, my loyal subject Denise successfully installed Crowne Plaza for the lunch and the cleanest toilet stop we've had in Jordan. You can get in & out via walking, horse ride, donkey ride, camel ride or horse carriage. If you have back problems, you must stick to walking as there are no springs on the carriages. You must walk carefully, given all the animals parading along your route. No shortage of natural fertilizer here, so choose clean-up friendly footwear. There are further treks from the lunch stop that are spectacular and physically demanding. Shopping includes handmade Bedouin fabrics (jackets, pillowcases), necklaces and silver bracelets, rugs, and sand art jars that are worth buying. The sellers are largely the Bedouin people. They are not shy in the least about asking for tips or selling you all kinds of stuff. For the best quality stuff, go outside the park past the Movenpick to the "Made in Jordan" shop. Decorated ostrich eggs that rival those in South Africa are available. I did not compare prices

Da Details:

Petra's quick history: The Nabadeans (circa 600 BC) set up their burial grounds in this canyon. They were later conquered by the Romans, who added much of their buildings and culture. Finally, the Druids (still a sect in Syria) came into power through circa 1100. I believe there was an earthquake that pretty much shuttered the role of Petra. It was rediscovered in the early 1800's by Burkhardt. You see ruins from the three primary civilizations whilst here. Bedouins have lived in this area so know it well. The area just behind Petra's canyon was a caravan stopping point.

The area surrounding Petra is quite green. Our hotel is literally 100 feet from the entrance to the park. As such, it caters to large tour groups, all on half-board. The dinner buffet was a real madhouse. We decided to skip it the second night.

Jordan is putting on the full-court press to get Petra voted in as one the of Seven New Wonders of the World. There were no fewer than 12 computers in the visitor's center so you could cast your ballot. There are lots of wonderful choices amongst the 21 finalists. If you care to vote, go to www.visitjordan.com and follow the links. You provide the information, make your choices, and then go to your e-mail. There's a confirmation e-mail with a link to record your vote. The winners will be announced July 7. It reminds me of good ol' Chicago machine voting. Since Jordan is a small country (6 million population vs. 1.1 billion in India to vote for the Taj Mahal), they need to get out the vote.

Lots of the souvenir stalls sell sand art made from the sand in the Petra canyon. They will write your name in the sand if you give them a few hours. We exercised our indulgent grandparent responsibilties, so had bottles made for the grandchildren. Once THAT important familial duty was discharged, we headed into the park.

The whole area is peaceful and awe-inspiring. Think the grand canyon with Pompeii on the floor and sides of the walls to get an idea how remarkable this place is. We rode horses to the gorge entrance. My Bedouin horse walker used the 15 minutes to give me the sales pitch/pick up lines of the century. He carefully described how we were going to run away together to see the dancing horses of Syria, the Wadi Rum, sleep in his family's tent and his sister would cook a chicken on the fire! As our guide said, "He's an experienced tourist worker". I agree with that assessment.

We entered the gorge on foot and were transported to a different world. There are traces of the Roman and Nabadean gutters and rain runoff channels. It's an easy 1 mile walk to the first spectacular sight, The Treasury. All of the Nabadean graves and buildings are carved right into the walls of the rocks. The walls are nearly vertical, and the Treasury must be at least 40 feet high. There's no vegetation to speak of, so we were contemplating how they brought in the scaffolding to complete the carving. The technique was to cover the area with sand and start carving at the top of the building. As they worked their way down, the sand was removed and the carving continued. There's much evidence of shifting ground levels over the 1700 years of history in this canyon.

We turned the corner to see even more crypt entrances at all kinds of levels. As we went deeper into the wider areas of the canyon, the sun lit up the intense colors of the rock. It looks like a flow piece of granite on steroids. Rich burgundies, red clay colors, bright white, gray, stunning yellow .. all flowing like rivers throughout the entire canyon. I've not seen a geological formation like that anywhere else.

At that point, Ruby introduced us to a young Army officer, Zed, who asked to join us for our tour. His duties include English translation, and he wanted to practice. Marc A drew this assignment. Zed stayed with us for about one and a half hours, keeping Marc A entertained. We trekked up the steps to see even more spectacular rock coloration. At that point, it was time for a comfort break. The owner of the tour agency, Guiding Star, called to make sure we were happy and to wish us and our families a happy Easter.

We toured yet another church with drop-dead amazing mosaic floors, and it was time for lunch. We invited Zed to join us but he declined. Off we went for a great lamb stew and a sparkling clean bathroom.

Somehow we talked ourselves into trying the trek to the Monastery (about a 2 hour round-trip that involves nothing but steps) through a back canyon. Ruby said she'd wait at the lunch stop as she couldn't do the climb. I decided to go round trip on a donkey as my knees were already barking from all the stair climbing in the AM. Surprisingly, Marc A said he'd come along, too. We were about 100 meters from the donkey ride place when Marc A's donkey did a full face plant. This was an ominous forewarning of the ride to come.

Cuckoo and I were off in the care of our Bedouin donkey handler. The donkeys just head up the stairs and don't stop. If you are in their way, they butt right into you. On the way up, you must ride as close to the donkey's front legs as possible. I spend the whole ride hanging on for dear life, digging my thighs in to hold the right position and apologizing for squishing fellow pilgrims up against the canyon walls. The stairs have eroded in certain places, so it's slippery to get up. Cuckoo stumbled, and I got quite a jolt up my back. I shuddered when my guide announced we'd hit the halfway point. Up we went on narrower staircases and passed more Bedouin boutiques, all of whom had ladies yelling out we needed to give our guides big tips. Pictures were impossible whilst riding the donkey. We finally reached the plateau below the monastery. The guides were insistent we be back in 5 minutes after pictures. Once again, cultural misunderstandings arose.

We looked up at the monastery, which had the thinnest, steepest steps. I knew I wasn't going to try it. I headed back, and the Bedouin women were outraged. "We take you up to the monastery on the donkey!". Look, the donkey just spent 1/2 an hour heaving us up that far. Give the donkey a rest! There was no way I was going up further on a donkey. Marc A was not getting on the donkey again. I waited a bit then slid back up on Cuckoo. If possible, the ride down was even more jolting than the ride up. In this case, you had to lock your elbows and ride as far back on the donkey as possible, using your arms to keep you in position. We got to the spot where the stairs are eroded. At this point, my handler cheerfully tells me the donkey's leg was injured on the ride up. So why I am on the injured donkey? Well, Marc A's handler was busy soliciting another rider for the way down. Oy! The story about the donkey's injury grew with the passage of time. The call for big tips for my guide were also growing with passage of time. Since none of this seemed to be working, another Bedouin donkey rider came up and started insisting I could not be older than 25. And .. would I like to visit their family? Their sister would cook a lamb on the fire. What a hoot! I finally arrived back down at the lunch stop. The back canyon was so much more dramatic and spectacular than the area with the tombs. I was very glad I did it, but much wiser about the physicality needed to even ride a donkey up into the hills.

Marc A had a fun time heading up to the monastery on foot, buying a few necklaces (the Bedouin happy hour: buy one, get one free) and trekking back to the canyon.

We headed to the entrance around 5 pm. All the Bedouin horsemen were bringing the animals back up from the canyon. It was like the Petra Preakness with lots of thundering hooves, horses rearing up and general chaos. We had thought to wear our "Bucking Horse Sales" t-shirts that day. How fitting!

He then bought a Jordanian rug up at the entrance to the park. As he cleared hotel security, the guard gasped. "My mother makes these rugs! Thank you, sir! I will tell her you are taking this home with you as a memory of Jordan!"

You are never far from someone you know in Jordan. It is a small, close-knit country. It's also like Egypt .. folks stay up late into the night and take the siesta during the day.

We headed for drinks, hamburgers in the bar and then to bed. Two hours later, the phone rings. "Madame, your young man wishes to bid you good-bye. Will you come downstairs?" I am thinking, which of the many young men from today is he talking about? and did the donkey or horse come along? Am I hallucinating? I hand the phone to Marc A. It turns out it's Zed, our English student from the morning. We haul ourselves out of bed. There he is, dressed to the nines, and asking us to please visit his family when we return for CAMEL. We enjoy a cup of coffee with him and learn he's a BASKETBALL fan. We are totally won over. We toast the Gators and the Lady Volunteers, and then head back to bed.

Today starts the long trek home. Pick up at 10, 2 hour drive to Wadi Rum, 2 hour 4X4 jeep tour of the dunes, tea with Bedouins, drive to Amman airport, head for home. If this tour goes the same way the one to Egypt did, the Wadi Rum will be the highlight of our visit.

Thanks for virtually coming along with us. It's been one of our best travel experiences ever. Most special thanks to Ngaire for putting this together. If you get the chance, do visit.
Cheers, Cleo

Ahh I cant wait for CAMEL to visit this place that has been on my list for such a long time. Glad we had the Cleo to blaze a path for us.

I know you need to come home but I will miss these wonderful updates each day.

Oh yeah.

Another great report Marc A and Cleo (or do you go by Liz and Richard outside of Egypt?)

Petra has been hovering around the top of my 'list' for a long time. Glad you validated that idea!

Wow!, Cleo, what a report! I'm exhausted reading it, and needless to say, wouldn't even contemplate the donkey ride up and down. Thanks for the education! (and hope the aches and pains aren't too bad!)

Thanks again for sharing your adventures with us, Cleo! It sounds like you had an amazing time!