We will be pausing in Bangkok for two nights en route to join Ngaire et al for the Singapore - Sydney Mariner cruise beginning Oct. 24th. We've never been there before, and will have limited time (Friday afternoon, Oct 21 to Sunday noon, Oct 23). We would appreciate any and all info/guidance re:
1. What are the "do not miss" things to see?
2. Can anyone recommend a reliable private tour operator or guide?
3. We've been steered to the 5 star Shangri-La and Peninsula hotels, with the Peninsula just a bit more money, but the Peninsula appears to be on the "wrong" side of the river? We want to stay in a great hotel there, but not waste our too limited time getting to and from the places we want to see and visit.

Any other advice or suggestions will be most welcome.

You do have to cross the river, but they have little boats going across all the time that take about 5 minutes, perhaps they go on demand. Once you are on the ohter side you can hop onto a ferry or there is a Skytrain station right there. We stayed at the Oriental last December, right across the river from the Peninsula. The Oriental actually has facilities on both sides - the main hotel is on one side and the spa, cooking school and one of their restaurants is in the other. I think you can take either the Oriental or the Peninsula boats across, although the Peninsula boat goes right to the hotel dock, whereas the Orinetal boat goes a bit further down for guests going to their spa, etc.

I liked the layout along the river of the Oriental better - it has more riverfront "real estate" for its restaurants, terraces etc. than the Peninsula whose property is narrower on the river, but extends further back.

I would say the "must sees" are:
The Grand Palace, Wat Arun, Wat Phra Keo, Wat Po, Jim Thompson's House, taking a canal tour in a longboat, spending some time at a spa getting a Thai massage, taking a lesson at a Thai cooking school and eating!

I think you can easily do Bangkok on your own. The main sights are located in close proximity to the river, and you can take a ferry, or in the case of Jim Thompson's house, take the Skytrain. Maybe others will have tour guide suggestions.

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Leslie

1. Agree with Leslie with some comments - Wat Phra Keo (Emerald Buddha Temple) is in the Grand Palace Complex. Jim Thompson house is interesting but I wouldn't put it on the must see list.

2. I don't have any experience with private tour guides but the concierge at any of the top hotels will be able to help you.

3. A lot of people rave about the Peninsula but I would avoid it totally since the hassle of the location on the "wrong" side of the river is hard to overcome since you still need the road bridges to get to/from the airport - Fri afternoon can be really bad in Bangkok. Shangri-La is often available on Priceline for $75 a night. Another good source of discussion on "luxury hotels" in Bangkok can be found at http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=414808 .

If you're flying into BKK, you'll see a tourist desk at the luggage pick-up area. These are licensed guides. We booked a tour through them at less than half what our hotel was charging. BKK is a very safe city, so it's easy to wander without a guide, but having a guide/deriver will make sure you get to some of the "must see's" on your list.
I agree with the basic list, though I disagree that the Jim Thompson house isn't a biggee. For me, it was one of the highlights, but then, I love architecture and I love the story of his life.
I would also add to the list a visit to the PatPong area at night. There are two arrtactions here - the night market that sells everything under the sun....(okay the moon!) and the strip clubs. If you'd like to visit any, stick to the ones owned by the King organization (it's posted on the outside), these are legitimate and you won't have any problems w/ drink scams, etc. I went with my husband and was warmly welcomed at the clubs.

I've been to BKK twice and stayed at the Shangri-La once and thought it was just so-so, not nearly as lovely as the Shangri-La in HK. On the other trip we stayed in the Erawan Grand Hyatt which was an excellent hotel. It's a city location, as opposed to being on the water, and we were able to walk to alot of places.
If you prefer staying on the water, I'd choose the Mandarin or the Peninsula.

CJ

Thank you all for the advice, and sorry for the delay in responding. We've been doing a bit of touring in the Great Smokies - Asheville, NC (lovely area - The Biltmore mansion and Inn are just spectatular) so this is the first chance I've gotten to get a decent connection with my new laptop.

Our plans are still up in the air, and we will consider your thoughts and advice carefully before finalizing them. Thanks again.

Count,

I'm sure you are unaware but Peteropny is the FOREMOST expert on Bangkok on this board. His Grandparents live there. His advice is sound on hotel location.

The River is magic. If you have little time in Bangkok, the important things for you to see as a first time visitor can be easily accessed by obtaining a day pass and hoping on and off one of the many river "shuttles" geared toward tourists. There is some commentary while onboard and they are less crowded than the usual river transport. Just riding the boat itself is fun and a great way to try to cool off! You will also be given a map/guide to riverfront attractions and water.

The Shangri-La and Oriental properties are very close to the Skytrain if you want to venture away from the river (like to Patpong in the evening). The Skytain is clean and AIR CONDITIONED and a great way to beat traffic. I've stayed at the Royal Orchid Sheraton a number of times and have enjoyed the location on the river next to the River City shopping complex.