Our third trip on the Paul Gauguin
Well, in the year 2000, we were struck with an incurable disease--the Polynesian flu. My husband David and I went on our first cruise on the Paul Gauguin, and fell in love with the South Pacific. We also fell in love with RSSC, particularly the Paul Gauguin.
We thought if we ever went again, we would do the 14-day Marquesas trip, but it was never scheduled at a time when we could travel. So, when prices fell dramatically after 9/11, in April 2003 we took our second trip. We also met a pair of frequent cruisers who were on their second week of a b2b--what a great idea, we thought, since the Marquesas trip did not seem possible.
When we heard the ship might leave the fleet soon, and Ngaire called for a group
cruise that later was named "Party in Polynesia", I took the bait--for the full two weeks. Surprisingly, only one other couple booked for the two weeks.
On boarding, we felt right back at home again on that familiar ship -- great
stateroom (no balcony for us, we traded that for the second week), wonderful
ambience, terrifiic staff, great dining.
There were differences. The ship is a bit worn, and could use a refresh--new
carpets, some wood refinishing. I could have sworn we had a duvet the first
time, but now a blanket. The food had inched down a notch, just a little less
care taken with the buffet lunches, the L'Etoile dinners inconsistent, service in the main dining room spotty. Little vignettes of indifference crept in from time to time, but we chalked that up to the tension of the new ownership--even though they hid it, some staff were plainly stressed. I didn't blame them a bit.
As avid fans of the ship and the cruise, I could forgive all of this, despite being disturbed and having the idea reinforced that this cruise would be our last on that ship. The food was still almost always very good, sometimes great. The staff overall were fabulous, so friendly and efficient!
The age mix was a little older than before, mostly because of the large contingent of Grand Circle Tour, and Vantage travellers. But we got to know a number of these people, and they were uniformly warm and friendly. I felt very comfortable with them, but then David and I were on the older side of the Pip demographic.
We had the luxury of not taking excursions every day (whereas on the first trip, we sometimes took two a day to make sure we didn't miss something!) If someone gave us a good report on a particular outing, we could book it the second week. Oh joy, the knowledge that Motu Mahana would come around again was great. And when the Bora Bora motu was too windy to use, I looked forward to revelling in the sand the next week (which I did.)
Made the usual collections of friends at "the breakfast club", early morning a La Pallete over coffee, croissants, newspapers and sunrises. Anne was there nearly every day, so we had a chance to get to know her.
Didn't do the night-time La Palette thing, so didn't really get to know many of the Pipsters. Did manage several dinners with Kathy and Frank, dinner with Lynette and Marc and Arlene, and nice lunches with Cyndi and Tom. I admit it was quite charming having a group of "friends" on board.
As the week progressed, and notices and questionnaires about disembarkation appeared on our doors, we felt the tension that these events always engender, and then felt it fall away. Great feeling. That last night's dinner and show could be enjoyed fully, and we got to sleep in the next morning.
In the morning we were off the the Papeete Marché. We had never been able to do that before, since disembarkation used to be so early. Had a great time comparing prices and studying the merchandise. Went around the shops ogling the high-priced home decor items (carvings and tapa clothes), and pearls--no pearl purchased yet, but some ideas forming about a purchase. Decided that the best vanilla prices I had seen were on Bora Bora.
Then it was lunchtime, and boo-hoos all around as our friends, both Pipster and GCTers, prepared for their call to the lounge and off the ship. We went up to the lounge again to say goodbye, and David and I, Pat and Fred suddenly had the ship to ourselves.
We poked around looking in some of the larger suites while they were being cleaned, wandered around just watching the bustle of turnaround day. It is done very efficiently. Fun to see staff and crew who we had never seen before, striding through the ship whistling about their work. And watching the food coming on board, with the executive chef presiding over the deliveries.
Then we got watch as the new passengers came on board. You could almost see the excitement radiating from the buses and taxis. Lots of grinning people with flowers in their hair started appearing on the pool deck with glasses in their hands.
It was about then that we found out (can't remember how), that there was a big group on board--the unnamed restaurant chain rewarding their top performing management. They comprised about half of the passengers on board, and dominated the demographic -- 30-something, rather than 60-something.
Another group also, a fiftieth birthday party, hollywood types. The demographic was pretty mixed in this group of about 35 people. Mostly 25-40, predominantly but not exclusively gay. The kicker was that birthday boy was paying for the party-goers cruises! I think they had a good time.
There was a small cadre of very young honeymooners. They banded together, by all appearances, and perhaps felt pretty isolated. Too bad--if it was my honeymoon I'd like to think I would not care, but who knows?
Then the ship went into high gear, and dinner time approached. We had arranged to have dinner with Pat and Fred that night. The Ia Orana (daily passages), told us that we would be eating in La Veranda that night (the c-people took over L'Etoile that night). So, we toddled into the dining room and go a table, noticing the buffet set up as we went in. Oh oh. Well, the rest as you know is history--Pat came in and I broke the news to him. We'll draw a veil over the rest of that meal.
The sailaway party was just as fun as usual, although the big group were for the most part absent--a pattern that would continue for many
of the ship's public events for that week. The shows were largely deserted, as were receptions and events like that.
The four of us b2b-ers had a great second week. After the first night's debacle, the staff were so solicitous as to be obsequious at times. The wait staff were even nicer than usual, and even dour Edgar in La Palette seemed to lighten up the second week, frequently smiling instead of scowling.
The BB motu was great the second week, white sand, deep luscious water, resident dogs, great view and drinks flowing. I took Lynette's water worms (noodles) over with me, and when I was finished floating around on the last day, I handed them off to another passenger--hope they found a good home eventually.
Some time in the first week we started making friends with Wendy, of "Wendy and Eric". I noticed her sitting beside me on the tender one day, coming back from some motu or other, and struck up a conversation because of our common name. Kept bumping into her, and she eventually suggested that we have dinner together. So we did, on Thursday of the second week. A delightful pair, very talented, intelligent, worldly and witty. We had a very pleasant evening of conversation with them--hardly noticed the chateaubriand coming and going! They have chosen New Zealand as their permanent home when they leave show-biz (or at least she does, I don't think he ever will--he's been a clown since he was 12.) She wants to try law school, and has an idea of specializing in the law of the sea, with a particular interest in Antartica (who knew!) I also think there's a family in their future.
As the inevitable disembarkation questionnaire arrived, it didn't feel so bad this time around. Of course we were not anxious for our trip to end, but two weeks is a nice long time, and it was enough. And I seriously don't think any of my clothes would have fit through a third week!
Our last dinner was at Apicius, with Pat and Fred. Lobster all around, and that mushroom risotto to die for. Fred and Pat are wonderful dinner companions, entertaining and charming. I look forward to crossing paths with them again.
The ordeal of leaving wasn't too bad--the airport was fairly comfortable this time, nothing broke down, and I actually managed to sleep about half-way across the Pacific. I think it was the muscle-relaxant I took for my sciatica, combined with a single glass of (verboten) wine. Nice buzz!
Got home late to an outraged cat and a dirty house. A week later, we booked another cruise for 2006. But frequently, when people ask me about FP, I find myself saying, "...next time we go there, I will...". Hmm. Land trip? Tahitian Princess? PG? Maybe even booked through GCT?!
Oh, and I did get my pearl, a beautiful little blue-green pendant, in time for the SSS party! I love it.
