RHINO HEAVEN - Internet is spotty so I will write and post and write a post so I wont lose it all if we go down. Rushing probably tons of typos but that is better than no post at all.
What a day. Our expectations were low coming here to Kwandwe because this is all converted farm land and are smaller reserves a totally different thing to the vast area of Kruger and the wilder nature of the Sabi Sand area. It is still is VERY different but certainly has its high points. Beautiful mountains, rivers it is really lovely.
These East Cape lodges are all stocked with game and then they live wild. There are the big five, elephants, rhino, buffalo, lions, leopard here. The leopard are now being seen about 3 times a week a huge increase in sightings over a few years back when it was once every two months. They also have a lot of plains animals you do not see in Sabi Sands. Number one on my list is the Oryx. What a stunning animal and they have a lot of them along with other types of plains game. The wildebeest is different with a white horse like tail.
So our adventure began today with a sighting of a black rhino. For those that do not know the color is the same. The white rhino is calmer and grazes on grasses. The black rhino is aggressive and browses on trees and bushes. Nearly all the black rhino I have seen is at a distance and they disappear also the rangers do not "push the envelope" These black rhinos here are a little more relaxed and pretty inquisitive. He heard us and came CLOSER an unusual thing from the start. He kept making his way closer to us and the ranger also got closer. Then we stopped and he made a mock charge. It was absolutely fantastic!! It was not scary at all the ranger knew the animal and that makes all the difference. Ken got STUNNING shots of him running to us. At the end he ran behind the vehicle and crossed the road. We were thrilled will probably never see that again.
We saw a lot of white rhino as well during the drive. Zebra really acting up (again Ken got some good action shots) giraffes that came really close, all kinds of new antelopes.
Then it was the lions turn. The drive the night before we saw a group of lionesses with some teenage cubs, the typical sleeping lions scenario. But today was so much better. We came across a big male (they are big and healthy with some of the Kalahari genes like Madikwe Hills) and one female. They had a wildebeest kill. Not sure what Ken will post because although it is not as nasty as it looks in person on a picture it is pretty graphic. He was chomping away and anytime the female tried to eat there was a big spat. We stayed for along time. He got up and dragged the carcass they were moving around a lot. Finally he dropped it and moved back and a signal that the female could have the leftovers. This all took place in a plains area with wildebeest, springbok, oryx and other antelopes. The lions were too full to hunt again but kept looking at each other as if to say -should we?
More happened as well but the black rhino and the lions were the highlights.
No time for breakfast we ran off to visit another lodge. It took 90 minutes to get there and on arrival we were immediately loaded on a boat and went up very long river. We saw birds and giraffes on the side of the river. We arrived at the site of a new camp they are building and looked at that in the very early stages.. Then we drove back to the main lodge. On the way it was again Black Rhino heaven.
This time a standoff between a white rhino and a black rhino. They do not get along at all. The white rhino (a BIG boy) started walking towards the black rhino. A lot of noises and behavior from both. The ranger said the white rhino was the KING of the rhinos and the boss of everyone, white or black. The black rhino was smaller, but he stood his ground and advanced. When the white rhino charged that black rhino "turned on a dime" and started running. The chase was on and continued across the plain and up the hill. Again something we may never see again. Then we hit a HUGE bull elephant. They call him the gentle giant. He was so incredibly calm. He was bought in from Kruger and the other lodges were nervous about having a bull this big. But for the game lodge that took him he has been a big draw. HUGE tusks and just as gentle as can be. Now during the mating season it may be a different story. No time for lunch so we ate in about 5 minutes maximum, some cold chicken and salad and we left. Arriving back at Kwandwe we went immediately on a game drive. we were sold on the game so we asked to see more of the landscape and if we saw anything that was a bonus. We only had about an hour but it was a great drive. The sunset here was a 360 degree full circle of color, brilliant orange and pinks. Never see anything like that. Where is NIKON KEN (of Ken and Sheila) when you need him. Lots of giraffes and a stunning sunset - just what he always wants to find.
This has been enlightening. I have always felt the East Cape lodges did not compare to the Kruger area. I still believe that to be true but there are definitely advantages to these lodges that I was not really aware of before. I think since we visited this area about 8 years ago there have been great improvements. The game is better, they now have buffalo, leopards are "coming" and maybe seen more often.
This particular lodge has more a Kruger safari feel as there are no farms in sight from the game reserve and a low density of vehicles. Several people told us this was the best East Cape lodge and I think they are correct. For past safari BK people it is on a par with Kings Camp on the luxury scale. The food has been great. We are the ONLY two guests as soon as we leave they are refurbishing. I think the stayed open to accommodate us which was very nice of them. There are six rooms, VERY large and well designed. We have enjoyed our stay here. The ranger was really excellent as well.
Now excited to see everyone tomorrow. They may not recognize me. Dirty clothes and hair not a pretty sight. Tomorrow we have to visit the other lodges on this reserve then fly to Johannesburg and HOPE our luggage is there!