Yeah internet Kens pictures hopefully will follow.

Continuation August 6, 2010.

Got back from a GREAT walrus sighting and have some "on and off" internet. Ken will try to post some pictures that may or may not work. It keeps losing the signal.

I continue the saga of ARCTIC

We were in the first group to leave for the landing to see walrus on a beautifully sunny day with no wind and totally calm seas. We were not disappointed. Walrus can be like elephant seals in Antarctica. They just lay there like blobs. Today we had a couple that were active, well active relative to discussing walrus activity on land. One big walrus in the front was constantly scratching, sitting up and looking at us and rolling around. I am sure many have some great shots.

Ralph’s grandson Brayden is an absolute doll who I would take on any trip any time and know that everyone would enjoy having him along. He seems more like a 20 year old than a 12 year old. He is engaging the expedition staff and getting so much out of the trip. He tries new things at dinner (unusual for a 12 year old) and is a master at pooch. Brayden is a pleasure to be around. Ralph took a great shot of him today at the walrus sighting talking to an expedition team member who had a gun over his shoulder.

Shortly after the second group arrived on shore the polar bear lookouts spotted two polar bears coming from different directions towards the group and the fog started rolling in at the same time. A major fast exit from the land as everyone grabbed a life vest and boarded the zodiacs. All made it safely back from the shore and I hear from some in the group this was handled extremely well by crew and passengers. The Captain came on the PA congratulating the passengers for the fast and efficient evacuation from the beach.

Then we have a break for cocktails and dinner with Anne and Gary as they celebrate their anniversary. The menu included specially ordered lobster tails and a filet mignon with morel mushroom sauce. Just as we are finishing dinner we arrive at the next major event of the day, the longest glacier in the northern hemisphere approximately 180 kilometers of water frontage. Right outside the dining room window we pass incredibly close to a big iceberg. We leave our coffee and run for the open bridge.

Arriving at the glacier we are quite awestruck. The glacier is in glistening sunlight and there are totally calm seas. This is an ice edge of probably about 60 feet high and you can see the ice shelf stretching as far back as you can see. What was really unique is the waterfalls off this glacier something I have never seen before. This is truly stunning scenery. The edge of the glacier twists and turns and the ship follows the path of the glacier. So hard to go to bed and leave this s so I am typing this as we look out our window at this incredible scenery. Tomorrow POLAR bear watch. We are so BUSY all the time.


August 7, 2010
WHAT A MORNING! Polar Bear Heaven

We sailed very close to the glacier around 6.30 am this morning. Wonderful scenery, then at 8.30 am the PA came on that they had seen three bears on shore. We were in the first group out on the zodiacs this morning and initially we saw the bears but they were all laying down and doing very little. One was on the snow and one was on the rocks. At about the same time they both starting stirring and lifting their heads. One started walking and we could see him well in the binoculars but not that well without them. He was raiding the arctic terns nests and the birds were going crazy. We moved around the area and watched these bears for about 30 minutes and just as we were coming back in we saw two bears together moving over the rocks. We followed the bears with our zodiac and then it really got exciting. One of the bears head was spotted at the top of the rocks. The bear started to walk down to the water. He made his way very slowly and the cameras were going crazy. He came right to the waters edge and looked like he may get in the water to come and visit a nice food source - us. We were so close to the bear you did not need binoculars to see his massive feet and claws. We had the expedition leader in our zodiac and he told all the zodiacs to start backing away. It was an incredible sighting. Cannot imagine it can get better than that. We saw either 5 or 6 polar bears this morning but the one that put on a show for us will never be forgotten.

WHAT AN AFTERNOON – Polar Bear and Walrus Heaven

The wind picked up and white caps were on the ocean. We were all in the second zodiac group so we were very comfy playing cards as the first zodiacs went out. Watching the zodiacs pitching around and spray flying it was tempting to stay onboard. After all how much better could it get than this morning? All but three of us decided to venture out. Those coming in from the first zodiac were soaking wet but looked really happy and said “get wet it is worth it”. Then we heard there are three polar bears and lots of walrus and the bears are circling the walrus and the walrus are everywhere in the water. So now we were all pretty excited about the adventure. It was not as rough in the zodiacs as it had appeared and then right after we started going to the shore line the SUN broke through and the wind died down a little. It was still choppy but not bad. When we got to the shoreline there were walrus in the water all around us. It is amazing how graceful they are in the water. Our zodiac driver had to be very careful as he maneuvered our zodiac among the walrus and the other zodiacs. Three polar bears were on the shore all slightly separated from each other. The best was one bear that was really close to a group of walrus and started circling around the walrus. We were hoping he would make a charge at the walrus but no such luck. The walrus is as likely to win that battle as the polar bear. The bears only go for the old and weak or for young walrus. This was a scene straight out of National Geographic. The walrus were everywhere in the water and on land, three polar bears, and an incredible cloud formation that looked like mountains. We got a little wet coming back and the cold was starting to set in but worth every second for the sight we saw.

August 8, 2010

This morning we got close to 81 degrees and then we stopped to do the POLAR plunge. Those brave souls that wished to take a tip in the Arctic ocean. Brayden was the only one in our group that took that challenge and we all took pictures as he plunged under the water. Sharon got a great video. It was fun watching people jump in and come out as fast as they could. The two executive chefs took the plunge complete with Chef’s hats.

I have to admit Ken and I were lazy this afternoon and decided not to take walk on shore. We stayed in the lounge and played cards with Brayden and Pat and watched Silversea reconfigure the observation lounge in about three different ways for the Venetian repeaters party. They really do put a lot of work into these parties. The reports back from the walk confirmed we had not missed much.

Rack of Lamb tonight that was really fantastic. We really enjoyed our dinner this evening.

August 9th, 2010

Morning activity:
Incredible Polar Bear, Glacier and Birds

At about 7.00 am the PA announcement made us aware of a polar bear on an iceberg with a seal kill. We had about 10 minutes to get up on deck to see this wonderful sight. The bear was really quite close to the ship. He was eating the seal and the birds were flocking around for a few scraps. Unfortunately the seal slid off the ice and then the polar bear went into the water and then started swimming to the shore. What a way to start a day.

At about 8.00 am we departed the ship for a zodiac tour of the Monacobreen Glacier that proved to be another wow experience. The water was dead calm, the sun was shining and it was not very cold. We were fortunate to have the expedition leader Robin as our guide. The glacier was large and angled around the bay. There was a cave at one point that was constantly calving in HUGE chunks causing waves and swell. In the zodiac we edged as close as we could safely and saw some of the biggest calving I have ever seen and the appropriate waves and swell. We then stopped at another zodiac where the Captain was serving champagne and chocolate covered strawberries. Gives a new meaning to champagne on ice!!

Then we went over to an area that has thousands of birds that feed in this area due to the food that is churned up from the glacier activity. As we watched another major calving took place and the birds scattered in every direction. A scene out of Alfred Hitchock’s “The Birds”

We looked at a large piece of black ice that has large rocks embedded that had come off the moraine of the glacier where two glaciers met. Plus we got right next to a huge blue iceberg where we could touch it and stand in the zodiac and see how beautiful it was on the surface of the iceberg.

To finish touch to the morning was when a huge piece of blue ice popped up on the surface from below. I never knew this would happen but our guide said this is always a danger as these pieces break off the glacier below the water line and pop up to the surface and there is no way to know when that will happen. Another reason there is a distance that must be kept. As Jim B said – it was like the glacier giving birth.
Afternoon activity
Lunch was a leg of lamb. Can life get any better than this?

We were supposed to visit a trappers hut and do a landing the bears are everywhere this trip This trip has seen 19 bears so far. A large polar bear was between the landing spot and the hut so that made a landing impossible. However, the good news was they also spotted a mother bear and cub and so the plans were changed and a zodiac ride to view the mother and cub was planned.

The wind had picked up and the seas were white capping. It was obvious that it was going to be a wet and bumpy trip. The zodiacs are so stable that you can go in weather that you would not consider in a tender. Four of our group opted to stay on the ship and the ten could not resist the lure of a mother and cub. It took forever for them to load the zodiacs and instead of taking us as soon as we were ready this time we had to wait for our larger zodiac and we were the last to leave. The ride over was wet and big splashes hit us all. It took about 5 – 10 minutes in the choppy seas and spray to reach the polar bears. Then it started to rain lightly.

It looked like one bear sleeping curled up in a ball. We went round and round in circles looking at the bear but it looked like the bear was not going to move. She would raise her head from time to time and then just flop down again. So we decided to head back to the ship and had just started our return when we saw the bear had moved a little and you could see the cub. Quick turn around and we headed back. We were rewarded with the mother rolling on her side with her head up and cub started nursing. The area they were laying had some nice moss and flowers it was a lovely setting. Of course if we had sun, no rain and calm seas it would have been picture perfect. Ken was still able to get some nice shots and I am so ready for him to post some of these pictures as they are worth a thousand words.

August 10, 2010

This morning we were are at Smeerenburg and old whaling station. The plan was to do a landing and visit the remains of this old whaling station. We were in the second group this morning. After the first group landed a bear was sighted in the water that had come on shore and was heading towards the landing site. So everyone quickly headed back into the zodiacs again and abandoned the landing site. Both groups did a zodiac ride to watch the bear. He was laying down and not too exciting just raising his head from time to time. We then did a zodiac tour of the whaling station. This is a stunning area with beautiful mountains that had just received fresh snow. Our zodiac driver was a Marine Biologist and spotted some jelly fish. One was really large with huge long tentacles and this added to the enjoyment of the morning excursion.

The original plan for the afternoon was to visit an area where a whale had washed up on shore that the polar bears were feeding on. This had been written up in earlier logs of the ship so I was enthusiastic about this plan. However the expedition leader came on and said we had seen enough bears already so we were going to head to Magdalena Fjord where people could do a landing and some walking in Arctic. This is an area where there are not a lot of bears. Lots of complaints from the passengers – how can you ever see ENOUGH bears? So off we went and when we arrived in the Fjord – you guessed it immediately they spotted a bear. With a bear spotted no landing was possible. This is a beautiful fjord and everyone enjoyed the scenery while an alternative plan was put in place. YEAH the expedition leader decided to return to the area of the whale carcass and polar bears. So we headed in that direction.

The weather changes so fast. The first group went out and came back saying there was hail and snow and rough water and it was very cold, but they saw four bears and it was worth it. When we went the sea had calmed down the sun was shining, no snow or hail and it was not that cold. We saw two bears, both sprawled out on the rock and sleeping. By the time we headed back the seas had become rough and the wind had picked up. The weather changes in an instant.

I am not sure of the count on the polar bears not but it is in the low twenties.

The contest in cards is heating up, a few of us have been playing hearts and Brayden is streaks ahead of all of the adults. This is one smart kid! Tomorrow is the final chance we have to topple him off his throne. Pam T is winning the pooch battle but Jim B has the highest score at an amazing 140 points.

Only ONE day left how quickly this time has passed

August 11, 2010

This morning we arrived at the July 14th Glacier. This is a spot that we visited last year. The expedition team map out the easiest route (still not easy) to go up to and stand on the glacier an activity many enjoy. If you do not want to do that climb then you can wander around on the shore and see the bird cliffs with many birds, including puffins and hope for a sighting of an arctic fox raiding the birds nests and walk to the base of the glacier. It is a really nice landing the base is small round rocks for the most part with the bigger rocks and boulders closer to the glacier. The conditions were good only a very light wind and an overcast sky with patches of blue. I decided to be lazy and stay on board start on my packing so I would be available today for the final card battles, get this report updated ready to post when we get the internet later today and update my notes on the ship for those planning on coming to Antarctica in 2012 on the Prince Albert 11. It is almost 11.00 am and everyone left at 9.00 am so they are obviously having a wonderful time.