August 7
Tapping Into the Ice Cap
We awoke with anticipation at 6 am, the memory of the beautify Brasvilbreen glacier fresh in our memory. The stabilizers were drawn in, as ice is plentiful in the seas, giving us just that little bit more of a rock and roll sensation. Gary headed up to the bridge to get the scoop. The scoop meant 90 more minutes of sleep before we rolled out for the day.
Before I report further, I must comment on just how calm the seas are here in the Arctic. The quick difference between Antarctica and the Arctic is as follows: Antarctica is a continent surrounded by seas; the Arctic is a sea surrounded by land masses or continents (depends if you buy into Greenland is the unacknowledged island continent or not). Motion has been at a minimum, due in no small part to our Captain's skill in piloting these waters. If you want to know accurately where we are, go to the silversea website, look up the Prince Albert II and check for the voyage summary. The expedition staff is posting a daily blog (delayed for internet interruptus) and you'll get much more accurate place and names than I can possibly pronounce (ergo, or can remember).
We continue to be impressed with the entire staff's focus on the expedition aspect of this sailing. This morning was a case in point. The 6 am glacier cruise was, no surprise, lost in the fog and mist. We continued up towards Isispynten. We did arrive at a small bay where our scout zodiacs spotted 3 .. count 'em, 3 .. polar bears. We suited up and swiped out for another zodiac cruise. Bear number1: white block in rocks. Bear number 2: white blob on snow field. Bear number 3: took one look at the approaching Red Coat army and beat a hasty retreat. Our guides invoked the 'not a PEEP out of you!' rule and we sallied forth, going back and forth between the bears sighted.
We moved out of Edgeoya towards Nordaustlandet, the easternmost island in the Svalbard region. (English is North East Land; this word is another spellcheck buster, my friends). The birds are the 'tell' when it comes to bear spotting. Food is scarce, so the bears help themselves to what eggs and young birds in nests they can find. The parent birds go berserk. Pack of berserk birds? Polar bears must be nearby. Suddenly the Bear Latitude Alarm System Event (blasé) was triggered around 25 minutes into our ride. Bear #2 arose and posed. Bear #1, not to be outdone, started to stretch and look around. Bear #4 rose over the top of the hill, a la John Wayne, and showed all of his 42 teeth to Bear #1. Bear #1 started heading over to Bear #4, all 42 teeth also at the ready, intent on remaining King Blob of the Black Rock Block. Bear #4 halted in his tracks and surveyed the red coat/black boat army. He appeared star struck .. perhaps he could garner the much sought after National Geographic Polar Bear gig .. all the ring seals you want, so long as you can be cute on command. Bear #4 ambled down to the waterfront, wherein our guides quickly backpedaled the Zodiacs to stay out of the bear's reach. He was deciding whether to dive into the water .. evidently he REALLY wanted the NG contract .. and we were going nuts with electronic images imprinting themselves on memory cards at double the speed of light. The captain let our Zodiac driver know he wanted to drive the boat .. but only after we'd seen what was up with the Bear Idol contest. We drove back, where the Captain awaited the wheel as we off loaded the Zodiac.
Half of the early group zodiacs had returned before the start of Bear Idol. The expedition staff and captain opted to extend our stay (Bear #4 was really playing it for all s/he was worth) so those in the first 3 zodiacs could go out once again and get their bear pictures. That's really impressive in my book.
POOCH and Hearts were underway to take us through to lunch. Ngaire and I both found ourselves boxed into attempting shoot the moons .. and fell just short. Brayden is also a good hearts player. Jim Turner trucked it home, winning by 2 points. He's earned the moniker 'Spade Smoke-Out Shark' for his ability to force the holder of the queen of spades to eat all of those luscious 13 points themselves.
We'll be late to Storoya this afternoon for what we hope will be another landing and walk. Our aspiration is to cross 82 degrees north on this trip. Who cares, so long as we see such wonderful bears?
No Lyin' .. Tigers and Bears, oh my!
We made it to Storoya in the late afternoon. The expedition staff was abuzz with anticipation .. and they were well rewarded. First, we all got thoroughly showered by arctic waters on our zodiac rides to the bay; second, we have it on good authority (no less than Nanook of the North) that walruses are the tigers of the North. The first group saw the polar bears stalking the tigers of the north, who closed ranks, with the biggest tusks on the outside of the groups. No less than 3 bears were on the water's edge, checking for signs of weakness in the walrus pack. Several of the walrus had taken to the water, bobbing, weaving and generally making hippo-esque noises. I have no idea how the staff will top this stop. We enjoyed a later dinner with Jim and Pat Bittle, and then toodled off to bed. The morning would come early, and the bridge is open. Time for another short night's sleep .. perchance to dream .. of lions, tigers and bears.
