After 2 years of living in Europe, this is my last week in Europe before repatriating back to the US and I decided to go someplace I haven't been yet this past Saturday and Sunday. Budapest sounded unusual and I left Saturday am and came home Sunday pm. It was too short a trip, but delightful.

Since December, due to my proximity here, Doug and I went to Paris, Berlin, Prague. I would put Budapest on a must see list.

Hungary has joined the EU, but does not yet use the euro in most shops. However, some shops will accept euros.

Physically, Budapest looks a lot like Prague, but a bit more elegant...wider boulevards and hotels right on the Danube overlooking the palace on the hill.

What impressed me more than Prague was that it was not as touristy as Prague and the people were incredibly warm and gracious whereever we went. The natives were funny, helpful and kind and made sure you had a great time.

First, we were warned about the taxis. The hotel wanted 9500 florins (about 183 per US dollar) and we were told a taxi costs about 4500 - if you are not "taken." There is a shuttle that is about 2200 florins per person, but since it takes many, it can take a fairly long time to make its rounds and, since it goes at designated times, you sometimes have to wait. The board at trip advisor recommended www.hotelonlinehungary.com. They responded within 1 hour of my email with a driver's name and telephone number and confirmation. The driver was prompt, friendly and we were delighted with his service ($5000 florins). The airport is comfortable and modern and is about 25 minutes from the center of town.

There are a number of fine hotels. The Four Seasons is gorgeous, but the most expensive five star. It is art nouveau. At the turn of the century, it was built as the most luxurious office, shopping and apartment complex in the city. It fell into disrepair since the war and was recently reopened in December 2004. Sophia Loren was the first guest....her son was married in Budapest. The Sofitel, Intercontinental and Marriott all are five star and are in close proximity to the Four Seasons, in a "hotel" row with many rooms having water views. We chose the Sofitel because an excutive floor room was only $180 Euros including breakfast, snacks throughout the day, hor d'hoevres/drinks, tax and a massage each. We did not have a river view as that would have been an additional 35 Euro. Service was excellent and the breakfast was lovely. The room was one of the smallest I have had in a four or five star in Europe, but not cramped. The bathroom had a separate shower and tub. It (the hotel, not the room!!)had a large atrium with piano music playing around tea time. The Sofitel is very American. A former Hyatt Regency, it has a large, open lobby that rises 10 stories with balconies draped in ivy. The Intercontinental is a typical business hotel right next door. Many of its rooms face the river and I believe an upgrade is available for 15 euros. The Marriott boasts all river facing rooms and is a block down from the Intercontinental, right on the river.

The Four Seasons was $100 more without any of these extras. I have heard nice things on trip advisor about all of these hotels. There is also Le Meridian and the Kempinski around another area (opera). The Hilton has two hotels. One, Westend, is adjacent to a mall and near the train station. I understand for shopping, this mall is great. All of these hotels are on the Pest side of the Danube. The other is right in the Castle area on the Buda side and is a great location if you plan on a castle trip. It is beautiful and quaint here. The Gellert hotel has thermal baths and is also on the Buda side. I don't think you could go wrong with any of these hotels.

The Sofitel hotel area is a couple of block walk to the main shopping street and you could walk to the castle (over the bridge and about 20 minutes) in good weather. There is a lovely promenade along the river and many parks. A city tour cost $12000 florins for 2 and a private tour in a limo was $9000 florins per hour for up to 4 persons. The guides were all very good.

There are many historical and art museums, a gorgeous Parliment building, a zoo, an amusement park and an archeological area. Many of the outdoor attractions were closed from October-March, so I would recommend traveling here other than these months to get your money's worth.

There are also lovely day trips: e.g., to an artists town (with a diamond cutting tour), the Herrend Porcelain factory, etc. and 1-2 hour boat cruises, Jewish tours, etc. The predominant religion (70%) is Roman Catholic, with Protestant faiths comprising another 10%. There are 20,000 jews remaining. The 2nd largest synagogue in the world is located there. Interestingly, as opposed to Prague, the Jewish community is reform, where in Prague, it is orthodox.

We took a day trip to Szentendre: This is a small village on the Danube Bend and has some interesting shops and sights. In the center of town, atop a raised embankment, is the Catholic Parish Church, built in the 14th century, and survived successive waves of conquerors. Most of the town seems to revolve around tourists. The road up to Szentendre is significant because of the Roman ruins of the town of Aquinicum (which were closed un the winter). There is a short portion of a Roman aqueduct still standing in the highway median.

The arts are prominent in town, with a number of theaters/music halls and 2 opera houses. The art museum houses a very large collection of impressionists, second only to the D'Orsay museum in Paris. There are a number of antique shops and art galleries scattered throughout the city in fairly large numbers. There is also a large covered market in the center of town, which is a great place to get a sense of the culture.

Shopping souvenirs consist of lace, embroidery, paprika, fur, leather, goose liver foie gras, wine, china, and pottery. I didn't price the goose liver, but I ordered it twice and it was excellent at $2000 florins for a main course (this was 4 medalions, sauteed, vegetable and starch). Goulash Soup came to about 2-3 dollars. If you like goulash soup, order double. I understand wine is excellent, but I don't like wine, so I didn't order it. The pottery and china were very expensive. I bet the Herrend store has a seconds store, but I didn't go. I didn't spend $100-200 for a tea or coffee cup for a first quality. I found the Faence pottery more than in Prague, though very nice. I thought the fur hats and lined leather gloves were high quality and very reasonable. Very nice lined gloves were between $5000 and 14000 florins, depending on workmanship and fur or wool lining. Fur hats were under $100, including mink and fox. Malls are open 7 days a week until 7 or 9:30, depending on day of the week. Stores close most days at 7, but on Saturday, small stores close at 2 and are closed on Sunday. Tescos (groceries) is open 24 hours, 7 days per week.

A city of 2 million, the Pest side is the commercial side, founded in the late 1800s-early 1900s, and is the most populous now. The Buda side dates back to 3AD and is mountainous. Except along the river, Budapest did not suffer much in WWII as Hitler was protecting oil reserves and had stationed many of its troops here. Most of the damage in the city was caused in the 1956 uprising against the Soviets. Budapest has been a democracy since 1989. Compared to Berlin and Prague, many of the Soviet buildings have been/are being torn down and buildings, more in keeping with the general tone of the city, are being erected or restored (Baroque). Outside of the city, the key secondary highway reminded me of a US route one, dotted with an array of older bungalow-style homes, new homes in the same style and large, rundown communist high rises. This road was reminiscent of the main road in St. Petersberg, Russia.

Many exhibits focus on the emancipation from the Soviets instead of the Nazi's, as in other European cities. There is considerable focus on the years of post-WWII terror by the Soviets. Budapest is a westernized city and appears quite upscale and cultured. Folks told us that there are pros and cons to the new government, which do not appear to be that dissimilar to ours. Under the communist oppression, folks rallied together and were very close in their poverty. Everyone had a job and knew he would have food, education and clothes. Today, the jobless situation has increased and folks are rather cutthroat and out for themselves. Some miss the security of communism and others love their newfound freedom. Overall, they seem like a happy and content lot of people.

As a bonus, food is reasonable, delicious and hearty. There was goulash (with beef or vegetarian)soup, Chicken paprikash, sauteed foie gras, fish paprikash, beef stew, veal stews, escargot soup, cold cherry soup, dumplings, mashed potatoes, goose, turkey, steaks (filets, etc.), lots of pastry (they have lots of pastry shops and are proud of their desserts and coffee shops). The first thing that people recall about Hungarian cuisine is goulash, which is, contrary to popular belief, not a stew but an artistically prepared thick soup. You might also try fish soup, chicken paprika, a good home-made pörkölt (stew) and the excellent fresh-water fish: grilled pike-perch, trout with almond. Also compulsory is goose liver. Whether fried or grilled, cold or hot, it is simply unforgettable, if you like goose liver.

We ate at Rezkakas restaurant and had a wonderful meal and fantastic service. Prices were reasonable. There was live hungarian music that was quiet and lovely. We talked with another couple next to us and my dinner companion and I and each of them all had different meals. Everything was RSSC quality. Most main courses were about 1500 to 2900 florins. Appetizers were from 500 to 800 florins and desserts the same.

Just about everyone spoke English. Russian was last taught in the schools 15 years ago and English is now the second language. Many stores are quite upscale..Escada, Dior, Gucci. Almost all stores are set up as brand name boutiques, i.e., Lancome has its own store.

I really enjoyed my short visit and feel comfortable recommending it to any of you venturing inland.