This is the continuation of my review of the 7-day PG cruise that Trish and I took.

We were scheduled to sail at 10:00, so had plenty of time to unpack, relax, have dinner and be up on the deck for the sailaway party. Somewhere in this time, we became aware that there were at least two corporate groups aboard of some size. We hoped that the groups would not be insular, and would mix with the rest of us. The results of that hope were a little mixed, as will be noted later.

The most striking thing in the sailaway party was the entertainment. The band was superb, playing music ranging from swing to rock. This would be a consistency throughout the cruise--we reached the point where we'd seek out where the band was playing on any given night. At the sailaway, it was dancing on the deck, as we watched the pier come to life after dark. Come sundown, the Roulettes--truck-based food vendors--set up on the pier and it seems like half of Papeete comes to eat. It was an invigorating sight.

We wound up sailing around 11:00. We were to find out later that we were delayed to wait for some luggage that didn't quite make it on time. That's what this whole cruise's mood was about--laid-back and flexible.

Our first day was in Raiatea. It was a Sunday, and what we'd been warned of was true--not a creature was stirring in town. This and Papeete were the only two ports where we actually docked (as opposed to dropping anchor), so we could wander off the ship at will. Unfortunately, there was nothing to wander to: everything was boarded up for Sunday. If I had to do it again (which I plan to do), I'd book an excursion for this day. As it was, we found a deck chair in a shady spot by the pool and had the quintissential lazy Sunday.

That evening was the Captain's reception. Capt. Zupan is a relatively young Croatian, and quite attractive and charming. (Captain Dag Who?). I was fortunate to have been invited to his table in La Verandah (the alternative restaurant) for dinner that night. The Chief Engineer--also Croatian--was also at the table. We had a nice time (and closed the place--Captain's privilege I guess). I discovered that one of the couples at the table had been on my Mariner Asia cruise a year and a half ago. The RSSC world is a small one.

It was also at dinner that I discovered that there was a third corporate group aboard. One group, of 120, was from the financial industry. Another, of 70, were Canadian Konica sales reward winners. The third, of 20, was another financial industry group. Both financial industry groups were unobtrusive--one never would have realized that they were in groups if they didn't occasionally devolve into shop talk. Unfortunately, some of the Konica people could be a bit loud and overbearing at time (and smoked like chimneys!), but it didn't take long for that to become part of the entertainment. Think karaoke.

Retiring for the evening, I discovered the first reason that I would NOT recommend cabin 606 (or, really, any deck 6 cabin forward of 608). The show lounge is directly underneath. The band might as well be in the room with you, that's how clearly and loudly they could be heard. Fortunately, this was a problem only that one night, when I was still suffering from jet lag. All subsequent evenings, I outlasted the band.

Another little quirk I discovered about 606. Early every morning, I heard someone walking around over my head. This is the first time on a cruise ship that I'd heard the people above me. What was odd was that it sounded like they were walking on hard floor without carpeting, and that they were wearing shoes. At 4:00 am, mind you. I was later to realize during the Bridge tour that 606 is directly under the Bridge's workroom, which has a linoleum floor. So, I'd been hearing the early morning crew.

Next morning was Taha'a and one of the highlights of the cruise: Motu day. RSSC has its own motu (small barrier island), where the pax are tendered over for a day of snorkeling, kayaking, swimming, exploring and sunning. And, of course, eating and drinking (yes, there's a floating bar). It was beyond wonderful! Great coral for the snorkeling; perfect water for sea kayaking, a nice barbeque, and a wide array of girlie drinks served in a hollowed coconut (or real drinks, if your preferences run that way). We tried to get the first tender over to get our pick of beach chairs, but wound up in the second group. Nevertheless, as it turned out, there was no such thing as a bad beach chair. Those who wanted a sunny spot got one; those (like me) who wanted shade got that.

Motu day. Perfect day.

Dinner on the ship. A word about the meals: Superb! Really, the food in both the main dining room and La Verandah was out of this world. If you do this cruise, I recommend whatever the fish dish is--it's always fresh and wonderful. I have to say, having now been on all the ships currently in the RSSC fleet, that PG's dining is the best of the lot. Oh, and do the galley tour. It's conducted by the executive chef, who looks to be about 16 but I think is older, who is unusually candid about the challenges of obtaining food in these islands and serving 320 pax plus the crew every day.

Next day was Bora Bora. Or, as it came to be known, Poura Poura. We had full days planned, with lots of great activities. But, even as the tour desk displayed a sign saying the tours go rain or shine, we found that our excursions were all cancelled both days because it was raining so hard.

Trish and I decided to make the best of it and go to shore (via tender) and try to rent a car. That was a bust, but we found a taxi driver who, for the equivalent of $50, gave us a circle tour of the island. We didn't get into the higher areas we'd hoped to see on our excursions, but got a good view of the island and some idea of life there.

Our second day on Bora Bora was more of the same: rain. Excursions cancelled yet again. So, we went to the lecture, which was excellent, re Polynesian culture, then went ashore, got another taxi, and headed to the infamous Bloody Mary's for lunch. Yeah, it's a tourist trap. But it's also a hoot, from the board out front with the names of the famous people who've been there, to the cat sleeping by the bar, to the chickens running loose over the sand floor. The mahi mahi sandwich was pretty good, as were the bloody marys. The bathrooms must be seen.

There was also a motu on Bora Bora, but given the rain it hardly seemed worth tendering over, so we skipped it.

Next day was Moorea and rain. Hard, driving rain. This excursion cancellation was the most disapointing to me, as it was the one I'd most been looking forward to: parasailing. Oh well, it only means that I HAVE to go back to do it.

So we wound up having a day at sea, like it or not. Crafts lessons with Les Gaugines (the Polynesian dancers and hostesses who performed throughout the cruise and who were lovely). Listening to the lecture (the real story of the mutiny on the Bounty--great stuff). Drinking too much in the bars.

Trish had gotten hold of a booklet on Polynesian beliefs, and we finally determined that all the rain had been my fault--I'd put my hat on the tiki in my cabin. So, I took the hat off the tiki and hoped for sun for our second day in Moorea.

next installment: sun at last

Crystal,
What a wonderful review. So happy to loved your trip. Hard not to love FP. We thought the crew on the ship were some of the best. Looking forward to "sun at last". You write beautifully!
cindy

Crystal, I am enjoying your review installments very much! I am so sorry to hear that it rained so much, but I sure am looking forward to reading "sun at last"!

Thanks for the reports, Crystal!!

Crystal,

I'm enjoying your review. Thanks for taking the time. Looking forward to the next installment!

Thanks so much Crystal for your excellent trip report. We leave on Sept. for a 14 day cruise and have never been on the PG. You brought everything to life and I can't wait to go! Your review was so interesting. Can't wait for the next installment of " Sun at Last."
thanks