Sounds Abound

Faru Faru free standing villas are composed of solid walls and canvas tent-style roofing. This allows the night sounds to permeate one's personal space. The climate control, if left on at night, serves as adequate white noise to filter out garden variety sounds and rhythms of plains life in the dark of the night. After only one night, we are acutely aware the prime time bird chatter is 3:27 am - and Lordie, it is anything but garden variety volume. No sooner did the birds go off than lion calls boomed nearby. Cool! Lions before breakfast danced through my head.

I made a halfhearted effort to go back to sleep as those lions teased us with more calling, creeping ever closer to our camp. Did I fail to mention we were unhappily hosting an univited applicant for House Pet, September 2012 who took it upon itself to out-sing the entire avian population from the depths of our bathroom wall?

Despite the Sounds Abound early morning interruption, we about jumped through said roof when startled from a sound sleep by the safari wake-up telephone call at 6 am. I shakily headed over to heat water for a fresh french press coffee; voila! the kettle was full of water and rocking with a rolling boil in no time. We made our 6:20 pick up time and advised staff the House Pet applicant (be it rodent, insect or avian in nature) required removal and relocation in a remote region. We left, confident we'd be back to 2 occupants by breakfast time.

Today was cooler, overcast with a beautiful blend of blue/purple/gray skies, and bright and fast sunrise and soft clouds gracing the skies. No doubt the pictures would be tougher; but the upside was a different look at animal behavior in preparation for a storm. The line of fire ants, according to our Ace Ranger, foretells the arrival of rain. We thought it quite possible it also foretold painful ant bites if one didn't step carefully over the column of soldiers on a pilgrimage to somewhere. The vastness of the yellow short grass mixed with sprouts of green contrasted beautifully with the sky and cloud cover.

We're going on a Lion Hunt!

Aboard our trusty Land Rover with Ace Ranger, we were indeed heading out to look for the lions who called in the wee hours of the morning. First off, we prepared to find the perfect spot to ford the Grumeti River. But wait .. we first had to check in on Momma Croc, who was stretched out on a sand bar in the rising tide of the river. Ace Ranger explains she's lying on top of her nest, where the Baby Crocs are soon to hatch. Soon enough, we arrived at the river crossing, noting the river's level had risen in the few days since Jim & Mary Ellen arrived. We assumed the brace position, inched down the short, steep incline and successfully made the crossing.

Bionic Gary spots tons of game at long distances with his cataract replacement enhanced eyesight and is jointly responsible for photographic coverage of the day's spottings. Canon Specialist and Cat Lady Mary Ellen is also on photographic coverage and lead deputy ranger responsible for cat behavior during sightings. Superscout Jim is catching the close-in sightings, adding photographic highlight coverage and engaging Ace Ranger in excellent discussion points on all things wildlife. I've been subdelegated for possible sightings of previously unseen avian species and relaying our day's activities on LCT in a timely fashion. A Well Run Land Rover is a Happy Land Rover.

We looked on the plain where the Big Male lion typically hangs out; but alas, no signs (yet) of Lion Life. Ka-Ching! Griffith's Vulture sighting. The impala and zebra mix on the plain seem awfully relaxed for a hungry lion pride in the vicinity. We press on. Three more Ka-Chings! on the bird life list: Van Doren's Hornbill; White-Browed Coucal; and and Striped Kingfishers. A breeding herd of restless elephants (almost all of whom are looking for a bull) passed the time while we diligently tracked for Lions. Just over the ridge, we find the holy grail for lion spotting:
Safari vehicles from several directions slowly making their way to where a lone vehicle is stopped on the plain.

The first group saw the first act: an injured Thompson's Gazelle who was playing dead in the grass, hoping to avoid the featured role in the Lion Breakfast Lineup. It logged 30 minutes before one of the lionesses dispatched it to its maker. The Big Male promptly grabbed the gazelle and ate his fill. Safari vehicles change places: Second group sees Lioness bat cleanup with very little to show for her effort. Safari vehicles change places again: Last group (ours) sees Biggest Cublet still with the pride grabbing the lion's share of what is left over, forcing two Teen Cublets to dejectedly wait their turn and hope for a lone bone. Teen Cublets were extremely thin. "A Gazelle A Day Won't Keep Hunger At Bay".- a sizeable zebra is more like that pride's minimum daily requirement.

We swung around to follow Biggest Cublet, who opts for the comfort (?) of the nearest tree. Tree Climbing Lions! Who says being last is a bad thing in life? Cameras click; Biggest Cublet finds the Sound Abounds disturbs HIS sleep. He leaves the tree, muttering, and heads for a better tree.

But wait! Along the far side of the river another Lion Hunt is underway. Have faith, Teen Cublets! There may be a mouthful left over for you. Alas - Lioness makes a mockery of the warthog chase. Gazelles are outracing the warthogs - after all, they have already donated a mere hour ago. Lioness stops, sizes up the odds and drops over to snooze.

We start muttering about our own Breakfast Lineup. As we head back .. a lone Safari Vehicle is stopped on the plain. The drama repeats itself. Another lion under a tree. Belly looks pretty empty. A second lioness approaches, with a pretty empty belly. They briefly greet each other and .. the newcomer quickly hoists herself up 10 feet into the vee of the tree.

Woo hoo! Two shots at Tree Climbing Lions? Lion Hunt in Last Place is a very good thing! Other safari vehicles arrive. Time for us to leave .. Ace Ranger turns to start the trusty Land Rover for our traverse back to the lodge with their signature, crepe-like omelettes made to order.

We're Not Afraid

"And Now for Something Completely Different" crosses through my head as it is clear the Land Rover battery is every bit as dead as the gazelle. Discussion ensues with other safari vehicle. Lions remain approximately 50 meters away, one in the Vee of the tree and the other at its foot. Lions are clearly thinking this is another stupid human trick designed to disturb their sleep. Humans are thinking that was one VEERRRRY small gazelle shared six ways and, at top speed, we could outrun .. not much of anything.

Ace Ranger and the other safari vehicle (now dubbed Rescue Ranger with Rover) work out a plan. These guys are very brave, indeed. Rescue Rover is to push us from behind, whilst Ace Ranger puts the car into neutral and pops the clutch at the perfect moment to jump start the engine. I haven't done that since high school, and oh that came in handy when I got dropped off soundlessly in front of home past my curfew. But I digress.

We are waving and making friends with Rescue Rover guests, counting seats to see if we all fit should we need to hitch a ride home. Conversation is crossing the airwaves in the plains.

Engine Sounds Abound with an eerie resemblance to a dying zebra. Lions are again losing sleep. Not a good thing. Superscout Jim has trained every fiber of his being on watching lions. I am thinking of Barney Fife begging Sheriff Taylor to give him the bullet, Andy, and hoping the pop the clutch trick works.

The pop the clutch trick does not work. Ace Ranger and Rescue Ranger, get out of car, drop the tow hook and line from Rescue Rover, and walk behind vehicles to secure it to front of Land Rover. Rescue Rover is moving at higher speed BACKWARDS as we try one more time to pop the clutch and go. A ditch looms behind Rescue Rover. We all shout "LOOK OUT!" as Rescue Rover stops just in the nick of time. Lions are still hanging out. Rescue Rover slowly tows us well away from lions and clear of ditches. We unhook the tow line. Ace Ranger tries to replace battery (stowed under tracker seat) but technical difficulties ensue. Lions continue to keep an eye on the whole scene. Jim keeps an even keener eye on lions.

Hills, that is. Swimming pools .. movie stars

Rangers decide it's time for us to kindly drop in on board the Rescue Rover with our new found fellow guests. The assembled party looks just like the opening sequence from Beverly Hillbillies. Fortunately, we are only a short distance from camp. On a hill .. with a swimming pool. Fellow guests josh "see, it WAS within walking distance" and we joke about it ensuring a cardio workout we would not soon forget. Staff greeted me with the great news that Larry the Lounge Lizard had decamped from our villa to the great outdoors.

The movie stars? None other than our two very brave rangers, who took utmost care to bring us to the best of the daily wildlife action and take very good care of all of us - and, ladies, are really easy on the eyes

Mary Ellen will follow up with the pictures worth at least 1,000 words after proper consultation with the photographic contributors.

Pleasure, Anne