Sorry I've been so remiss on continuing the review. Things got pretty crazy upon my return.

Anyway, back to the train.

Yes, if you are very claustrophobic, this is not the trip for you. The quarters are pretty tight. But there's enough space for everything you need space for.

Let me cover the essentials:

The crew and staff. Utterly wonderful. This was the first trip of the season, and a few of the crew indicated that this was their first time on the RS. But had they not told me, I never would have guessed. Service was efficient, warm, friendly and seamless. No want went unmet and few went unanticipated. The very best of service.

Meals. The food was exceptional. I would say particularly considering the tiny little kitchen from which it came, but the fact is it doesn't need that caveat. It would still have been exceptional if it came from a huge kitchen. The key was the limited menu. The breakfast menu was pretty standard each day, with a wide range of selections, ranging from a full Scottish breakfast (yes, including haggis and blood pudding), to lighter fare. The breads were all baked on board, though I rather suspect the croissants and some pastries were brought aboard from town. I have to say, after the first day, I tended to stick with porridge and berries, just because the food could be overwhelming otherwise.

Here's how they pulled off such wonderful food: they kept the menu limited. Each morning a member of the staff would come around to tell each passenger what would be served for lunch, and ask if that would be acceptable. If anyone had a problem with it--allergies, taste, anything--an alternative would be arranged. And, after lunch, the same thing with dinner. So, they didn't need to stock or cook for a variety. I never went for an alternative, as the planned menu was always wonderful.

The emphasis was on seafood, but other meat was served as well. But the best meals always were the seafood.

In addition, there were hors d'ouvres before dinner and tea some days if we were on the train at tea time.

Entertainment. Each evening, entertainers would come on board and perform in the observation car, which was the center of activity while on board and in the evening. Musicians, storytellers, dancing, etc. This is where I realized why Scotland speaks to me so. The music is what I grew up on--the music of the Appalachians. It makes sense, as there is a strong Scots background in that region. But now I know.

The musicians were great, as was the storyteller. In the evening, the seating was pushed all to the sides of the car, which left a little room for dancing. And dance we did. When the time came to learn Scottish dancing, though, we had to take it out to the train platform. In the freezing cold. But fun nonetheless.

After the entertainers left, it was time for just socializing. The whisky (and, yes, other drinks as well) flowed freely, with the experienced Scotch drinkers arguing over the best way to break in the newbies.

Fellow passengers. With such a small group, it all rides on who is on the train. We were fortunate to have an extremely congenial group, of varied nationalities. Americans were a plurality, but not a majority. Aussies, Swedes, Germans, Brits, Swiss, Canadians, and French rounded out the group. English was the language spoken for the trip, though. But if language failed, a quick dance communicated well, and a toast is a toast in any language.

In addition to the (failed) efforts to match up June and John, the other mission of the train was to give a hard time to a young couple celebrating their anniversary. They are Americans, stationed in Germany with the Air Force, and were cute as could be. He had rented a kilt for formal night, and much fun was had with that. They took it all with the best of humor.

And, oh yes, there were two formal nights (and they were consecutive!). Fortunately, all were polite enough not to notice if one wore the same thing both nights.

Excursions. In addition to food and all beverages, the excursions were included. How the thing worked was that, during the day, the train would move through very scenic countryside, including along the coast--for some breathtaking views. We mostly gathered in the O car for this. Then the train would stop, we'd all get off and board a bus, and head off to an excursion.

First was a visit to the Glen Ord/Singleton distillery. They split us up into two groups, and half of my group managed to get lost. By the time they found us, we'd become quite happy enjoying the scents of the distillation room. What friendships hadn't formed the day before were firmed up there. I couldn't tell you now what was so funny, but we all certainly got a good laugh out of it.

This was followed by a tasting. Glen Ord makes a number of different Scotches around the country, and they were kind enough to give us little samples of several of them. Heavy trading followed on the bus afterward. I made out best, as the newbies really didn't like the smoky Scotches that I love. So have a little cache of airline-size bottles of some of my favorites.

Back to the bus to go back to the train. Only the train had moved while we were drinking--we'd find this to be the case most of the time, and so we went on to another station to re-join the train. Seems that the system is that they'd get us off the train to do track switches or other such chores, and when the scenery was ugly. It was really quite a little system.

Most days held at least two excursions. That afternoon, we went to the village of Plockton. For you mystery fans, this is where the Hamish MacBeth series was filmed for BBC. And while I'm not big on the TV series, I've read all the books, and could totally see this town as the fictional Lochdubh of the books.

In Plockton, we ventured out on the loch to see a colony of wild seals. Then back to the town to join in a town celebration of a bike race that was ending in Plockton.

Afterward, back to the train at, yes, a different station.

Each night, the train pulled aside and so we did not move while sleeping. At first I was disappointed in this, because I sleep so well on moving objects, but I found I had no problem sleeping anyway.

Will end here and start a new entry in a minute.


Crystal