Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242174
08/20/14 09:26 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,517
Ms Understood
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,517 |
I am worried now. Ignorance WAS bliss! I have no idea what we will do if SUMO gets cancelled. I guess it is time to start thinking about it but unlike you, Rachel, we are not really hikers. Hope Leslie and Lauri have it right and somehow SS will make it work. ------------------ Helen
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242175
08/21/14 06:31 AM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,218
jbittle
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,218 |
We're worried too. On Sunday we'll be on a ship to Anchorage on our way to Nome for the Sept 1st sailing on the Explorer. It won't be easy to get from Nome to Otaru if the Russian segment is cancelled.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242176
08/21/14 08:29 AM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,917
ssclbc
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cruiser
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,917 |
Silversea must have a Plan B. I suppose calling them or having your TA call them might ease your worries.
Lauri
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242177
08/21/14 08:37 AM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,218
jbittle
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cruiser
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,218 |
My TA is on the Explorer so I have to wait until she gets internet.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242178
08/21/14 09:23 AM
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 124
julesluvscruising
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Posts: 124 |
That's funny, Jim! We've reached out to our Silversea Rep and as soon as we have information to share, we will post it in this thread.
"One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things." - Henry Miller
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242180
08/22/14 12:19 AM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,967
jhp
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Posts: 7,967 |
Julie, thank you. We are all so eager to hear what's going on!
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242181
08/22/14 03:36 PM
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 124
julesluvscruising
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cruiser
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 124 |
According to our Silversea Representative, the Silver Explorer is the traversing the Northwest Passage and is still expected to reach Nome, Alaska by September 1st. The ship is in the Arctic Circle and is out of satellite range and that is why we have not heard from the passengers. Hopefully, they will be in satellite range soon and we will get an update and maybe get to see some photos of narwhals.
"One's destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things." - Henry Miller
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242182
08/22/14 07:21 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,233
RachelG
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Posts: 1,233 |
Well, according to the official Canadian government website, no ship has gone through at all.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242183
08/22/14 08:25 PM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,078
Leslie B
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,078 |
And this just in... Aug 22 M/V SILVER EXPLORER stuck in Northwest Passage ice escorted by Canadian Coast Guard icebreaker REPORTS START TO SURFACE ABOUT A CRUISE SHIP AND ICEBREAKER STUCK IN ARCTIC ICE... http://northwestpassage2014.blogspot.com/
Leslie
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242184
08/22/14 08:33 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,917
ssclbc
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,917 |
Oh no! Looks like they tried to push a little too far. Nat Geo almost got stuck but turned around. They didn't have to make it to Nome though. I'm sure we'll hear some very interesting stories once this is all over.
Lauri
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242187
08/23/14 11:48 PM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,078
Leslie B
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,078 |
Latest update:
One of our fellow Japan cruisers has been on many SS Explorer cruises and just got in touch with Conrad, the head of SS Expeditions. She emailed to ask him about the "stuck in ice" story and he replied right back:
Conrad said - " They were not stuck. They were under Canadian Ice breaker escort for three days and are now sailing in an ice free area . No problems and no concerns. "
So, good news for everyone!
Leslie
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242188
08/24/14 08:04 AM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,233
RachelG
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,233 |
Great news. Now I can start packing.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242189
08/24/14 08:20 AM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,218
jbittle
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,218 |
That's great. We board the Statendam in Vancouver today heading to Anchorage. I guess we won't be spending extra days in Nome. We'll see the LCT group when you board in Otaru.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242190
08/24/14 10:22 AM
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,569
Mrs. Marc
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,569 |
We made it through the North West Passage!!!!!!!! Four days behind a Canadian Ice Breaker, and quite an experience. We did get stuck in the ice twice, but they were right there to get us unstuck. The ice is so beautiful, it was so serene and peaceful. We have not seen much wildlife, though we did have a Polar Bear and Cub come close to the ship the first day in Canada that was spectacular. While we were in the ice there were many sittings of them, but they were far away (just little dots with the naked eye) and we could not deviate to get closer while we were following the ice breaker as the priority was to get through the ice safely. We are all having a wonderful time and Ngaire has set up a special dinner tonight for all of us. They are going to set up the outer rear deck for us for dinner tonight so we will be dinning outside. The Explorer has "hot rocks" they bring out to use to cook your steak, chicken or salmon. Don't want to loose this so will post now ... more latter.
PS Nine days without internet is really painful even when you are on vacation!
Arlene Adventure before Dementia!
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242191
08/24/14 10:26 AM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,069
Ngaire
OP
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OP
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,069 |
TEMPORARY INTERNET AT AN INUIT COMMUNITY AT CAMBRIDGE BAY. REPORTS WRITTEN FOLLOWING. Not sure when this will get posted we are without internet but I will continue the reports and at some point we will get this up. We were pleased yesterday when we got internet in the library at Pond Inlet. Ken was able to post pictures and we hope an attachment we sent to our office that has a post was received and is now on LCT August 17, 2014 ICE REPORT – some movement showing but still a lot of red showing at this time. Better than it was yesterday when it looked like it was getting more blocked. We are all keeping our fingers crossed. PORT INLET After a little rough weather (not too bad) crossing over to Canada early in the morning we were welcomed to Canada by a perfectly calm sea and absolutely gorgeous snowcapped mountains. The scenery was truly spectacular. The Canadian officials cleared the ship and we were all anxious to step ashore in Canada. Mad dash to the library where four computers were available for internet use. The young lady behind the counter was definitely not Inuit and she was very helpful to everyone. She had on a seal skin vest with a Narwhal in the seal skin made from using the white parts of the seal skin. I gave her a Narwhal pin that she was delighted to receive. She was actually born in Montreal, but lived in this area as a young child. Her family moved to Scotland where she has spent most of her life. But she decided to move back to her roots in the Canadian Arctic and has been in Port Inlet for three months. I love visiting these towns but absolutely cannot imagine choosing to live here. I bet there was a man involved! The town is situated in the most beautiful harbors surrounded by mountains and a few icebergs. STUNNING. This morning before we arrived NARWHALS were in the harbor. Such a totally different environment from Greenland. Gone were the colorful houses and dogs everywhere. This was a good size community of about 1500 people and lots of nice buildings. About 200 children are in school here and they have a separate elementary school and high school and a college for educating adults. A local guide took us around the town which is fairly new. Embarrassed to say I cannot remember the exact dates but about 40 years ago they started this community and the Inuit people moved to this area and the town is increasing in population. One child was asked what her favorite foods were and the response was, Macaroni and Cheese, Seal meat, Narwhal and Pizza. Mixing the traditional with the new! Children were delightful again, so outgoing and they spoke English of course that made the visit far more entertaining. A little boy and girl were riding their bicycles and came right over to us to talk. Super friendly they were delightful. I gave them a pin and they raced off all excited. The town put on a cultural show that was really outstanding. I must admit I do get a little tired of these shows (terrible admission) but this one was really terrific. It started with a wonderful rendition of the Canadian National Anthem sung by a beautiful young Inuit woman. Next were demonstrations of the arctic games that involved physical strength and skills from the men. These games are held in the Canadian Arctic regions and gold, silver and bronze medals are awarded for the winners. One challenge involved balancing on one hand while they hit a small replica of a seal with their feet. All the skills are designed to help in the strength and balance to hunt. To settle arguments each man would keep hitting the other on the arm until one backed down. The one that we will all remember was the mouth pulling. Each man puts his finger inside the other man’s mouth and pulls the other man’s lip to the side as hard as he can. That really looked like it hurt! This was all fascinating. Then there was singing and dancing led by the man that bought these local skills and customs back to the people of this town. We were told he was the local celebrity. He had so much rhythm and was truly wonderful to watch. A little boy about 3 years old had his baby drum and was beating away as well with the adults. Then the ladies showed us “throat singing” that was really remarkable. The ship said they would give lessons. They create really unusual sounds and I have never really heard anything like this before. Then they did the happy dance that was meant to make people laugh. They succeeded we were all laughing. The beautiful young Inuit woman who opened the show had a totally contorted face and crossed eyes. Then we went into the Co-Op store. It was really big a short supply of fresh produce and what was there was very expensive. THEY DID HAVE CHERRIES but no price for those I decided to give it a pass. Wandering around we saw the clothing and I actually bought a jacket. Seldom buy anything unless I am in Shanghai or India where I have been known to turn into a shopping fiend. The written language is so strange here and the jacket has the local writing and English for Port Inlet along with the man made from stones that is on the local flag. The material was good and it fit. So I left sporting a new jacket last thing I expected to do. Can you tell I loved this stop the scenery the people and culture were all really interesting. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-pxn3Zcw/0/L/IMG_4440-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-3XdMWGQ/0/L/IMG_4443-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-7LFQRb7/0/L/IMG_4466-01S-L.jpg) Old Mud House. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-6jg55NS/0/L/IMG_4475-01S-L.jpg) Community Center in Pond Inlet, Canada with INTERNET!! ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-C9PzLcF/0/L/IMG_4480-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-SVTnw4k/0/L/IMG_4499-01S-L.jpg) Throat Singing in the Cultural Center. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-nSVGhdS/0/L/IMG_4511-01S-L.jpg) Arctic Games. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-sSjNFDq/0/L/IMG_4533-01S-L.jpg) Very painful Arctic Game. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-Vk3cXGd/0/L/IMG_4545-01S-L.jpg) Not exactly Greenland. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-dnGpLrZ/0/L/IMG_4544-01S-L.jpg)
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242192
08/24/14 10:28 AM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,069
Ngaire
OP
cruiser
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OP
cruiser
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,069 |
LEAVING POND INLET
Sailing from Pond Inlet it was truly idyllic. Mountains with snow, two big tabular icebergs and the water was so calm it was like glass. Then at dinner the announcement “Narwhals are around the ship”. However the sighting was not good and they said if it got better they would let us know. Narwhal are very shy and they are also hunted so good sightings are rare. However, from the window seat in the dining room Mo and I both saw a roll of back. No tooth but still I can say I have seen a Narwhal. Still hopeful that another sighting will take place.
DEVON ISLAND – August 18, 2014 – Polar Bear territory. Again another absolutely perfect day. Zero wind 37 degrees, sunshine and calm seas. The staff had to clear the landing site to ensure there were no polar bears around. Once the polar bear worry was averted we were able to land. Since it was 37 degrees and there was ice around I decided to wear my red parka. A mistake, it is amazing at home 37 degrees is cold. But walking around with the sun shining it is SO warm. I ended up with my jacket off and just a short sleeve top. You need the parka for the zodiac ride but after that it is way too warm.
This was an old Royal Canadian Mounted Police station. Some old abandoned buildings still with cans, books, furniture inside. Of course there was also the necessary arctic outhouse. We learned in a Liars Club session that a BOG CHISEL is actually an instrument to remove ice from the seat of the outhouse – learn something new every day. It was interesting to visit the old buildings but walking on the boggy ground was also pretty interesting. Glad I had my boots! It was good to get off and walk around. Definitely worked off my breakfast now I can enjoy lunch. RADISSON SAVES THE DAY!
We were informed an Ice Breaker would welcome us this morning. The name of this ice breaker is the Raddison! There it was on our arrival complete with helicopter. The helicopter is used to judge the ice in our path and whether they feel like we can get through. The Silver Explorer will follow the Radisson through the ice. The interesting event is that we asked for the icebreaker first. The National Geographic Explorer ship was coming into the area and were behind the Explorer. Not sure how far behind us that ship is actually situated. The National Geographic ship is trying to do a change of guests in Resolute but that area is blocked and they cannot get through without an ice breaker. So that ship will probably have to wait until we are through and the ice breaker comes back.
Tim picked up a local newspaper in Port Inlet where the lack of Coast Guard Ice Breakers was big news. They are all old and they do not have enough. Sweden and Norway have more icebreakers than Canada and they have no ice conditions like Canada. China was contemplating bringing in icebreakers as it could be very profitable. However the Canadians have announced 3.1 billion dollars budgeted for new icebreakers.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242193
08/24/14 10:29 AM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,069
Ngaire
OP
cruiser
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OP
cruiser
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,069 |
CROCKER BAY AND THE CUNNINGHAM GLACIER – August 19, 2014 This afternoon there was a zodiac tour around the face of the glacier and the icebergs in the area. Twelve of the LCT group got on the same zodiac and off they went. We waited for the other people in the group and left a little later. Today it was COLD, the wind picked up and coming off that ice it was the first time I felt cold. Our smaller group had an expedition leader named Peter. He is full of information and will be on the Sumo trip as well. In fact quite a few of the team will be on Sumo so it is nice to know some of them from the start. This afternoon we entered the Prince Regent inlet on our way to the Bellot Strait where we will need our ice breaker to get through the strait and through the heavy ice to open water. The Prince Regent Inlet was also blocked at one point but broke up enough for us to get through on our own and the Radisson will join us tomorrow at noon. During the night we heard a lot of bumping and grinding as we started through the ice. Many were up at 5.00 am in the observation lounge watch as the ship slowly navigated the ice. At one point the ship went up to the ice and then stopped and back up and changed direction. Guess that piece was a “NO GO”. WHALES AND POLAR BEARS- 8.00 am Stefan the expedition leader announced there were Bow Head whales in front of the ship. Ken and I decided we need to get up and go look and slowly stared to get ready. Hard to get out of that warm bed. Then another announcement we have spotted our first polar bears and the course was changed to go the Polar Bears. Now THAT news got us into warp speed. What a thrill we had in store. A mother bear and a cub on the ice. The bear kept coming closer and closer with the little one in the rear. The cub imitated almost every movement of the mother. It was an adorable sight. She was sniffing the air and smelling us and was obviously curious. At one point she growled at us. The bears came right to the ice edge and extremely close to the ship. Impossible to give an exact figure but probably about 50 feet. No need for binoculars. The cameras were clicking and the opened the lower deck in the front of the ship. I managed a perfect spot. I knelt down and looked through the railings. All the cameras could shoot over my head. It was a fantastic sighting. I thought the mother was going to go into the water but she did not. It was so cold that after a while almost everyone had to come inside and the bear started walking back to the middle of the ice. The staff went to see, everyone it seemed was on the decks. Smiles all around this morning. We anchored at the entrance to Bellot Straits. This is very narrow Strait leading into Peel Sound which is still 9/10ths blocked at the last report. There are treacherous currents and a lot of ice in the Bellow Strait so we hope that the Radisson decides it is a go for us to proceed. The helicopter was sent to check out the conditions and flew over the ship. Again the cameras were clicking away. Now we are waiting for the assessment of the situation from the Radisson. We started a sheet to guess the time of the next landing. The choices ranged from tomorrow the 21st all the way to the 25th. This is truly an adventure no one knows for sure what will happen next. There is an old Hudson Bay Trading Post abandoned site at the entrance to the strait. If we cannot go through today we will do a landing here this afternoon. Lots of card playing, polar bear picture comparing and FISH trivia at afternoon tea. The expedition team take turns with trivia all about their particular area of expertise. The expedition team have really grown on us. Most have a good sense of humor with a couple of standouts who will be on the ship for Sumo. I find I can settle into the lazy sea day routines very easily. We just heard the official word. After two flights from the helicopter it was decided they could not do safe passage today. So we both the Radisson and Silver Explorer stay anchored for the night and we will see what the conditions will be tomorrow. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-hrv5WPJ/0/L/1G8A7527-02S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-qQ6kbkC/0/L/1G8A7561-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-dH5kcXf/0/L/1G8A7623-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-cs2V2Fx/0/L/1G8A7635-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-VxHr34z/0/L/1G8A7638-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-CjJgrj9/0/L/1G8A7651-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-W5QMDML/0/L/1G8A7678-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-SFVrTSL/0/L/1G8A7701-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-4Rk5cr5/0/L/1G8A7736-01S-L.jpg) Hudson Bay Company outpost.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242194
08/24/14 10:30 AM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,069
Ngaire
OP
cruiser
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OP
cruiser
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,069 |
THE PASSAGE OF THE ICE- August 21st, 2014 We woke at 7.30 am as the engines kicked into gear. Then we were told that we were making our first attempt at Bellow Straits. The ice breaker had gone through and said we could make it and was waiting at the end of the strait. Then another announcement of TWO POLARS bears on the port side. However, they were quite a distance and we could not go in close as it was too shallow. As we started into the Bellot straight we had two more polar bear sightings. Ken spotted one before it was announced but once the attempt at piercing the ice was started then was no stopping. The ice and currents only allowed for full steam ahead. We slowly went through the Bellot straight and weaved in between the ice and clear water, sometimes going straight through the ice as there was no other alternative. We could see the ice breaker in the distance and at that moment we saw blue sky and sun. It was so nice to see the sun Once we got out of the Bellot Strait we realized the difference in the thickness of the ice in the Peel Sound. We could never have made it without the ice breaker. We are now following the ice breaker. Initially it left a path of water in the wake but now it is simply breaking up the ice into smaller pieces allowing us passage. We all spend the morning up in the observation lounge and outside, boy was it cold out of the wind and in the sun sure helped but that was not where we could stand for the view of the icebreaker. We did take some group shots of those that were around I hope they come out. I came down to my cabin on deck 3 and the noise of the ice hitting the ship is far louder than I would have expected. Looking out the window the pieces are large some look to be about 3 to 4 ft thick, perhaps more with some the ice under the ship. It looks like some clear water in-between the ice but we were told that is simply melting and it is ice underneath. As I am writing this another announcement THREE MORE POLAR BEARS sighted on the starboard side and then a few minutes later TWO MORE POLAR BEARS on the port side. We would love to go closer but we cannot stop our ice transit or we might get a bit stuck. No stopping at this point. The ice is getting much thicker with ridges of older ice all over the place. These can be an issue for the ice breaker. This is absolutely amazing I am going back upstairs again. No way to describe this at all it has to be experienced. Great day and we will be in the ice for another full day before the icebreaker leaves us. We are now up to SIXTEEN POLAR BEARS sighted. Some of these are really too far away to take photos and you can only see them with binoculars but they sure are around here. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-cXspX3z/0/L/1G8A7784-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-kSrkxVD/0/L/1G8A7831-01S-L.jpg) The Helicopter leaves the ice breaker to check for the safest route. He goes out 50 miles. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-g9rt23V/0/L/1G8A7766-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-XVv2tLP/0/L/1G8A7874-01S-L.jpg) Helicopter returns. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-z2SjBqj/0/L/IMG_4684-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-LMxThQm/0/L/IMG_4717-01S-L.jpg) Anna & Arlene. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-4n8mHBh/0/L/IMG_4743-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-cnbQTdR/0/L/IMG_4762-01S-L.jpg)
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242195
08/24/14 10:32 AM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,069
Ngaire
OP
cruiser
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OP
cruiser
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,069 |
DEAD IN THE WATER – MYSTERY AT SEA -August 22nd At 4.00 am Ken said we are not moving. We looked out the window and it appeared we were stuck in the ice. There were some possible explanations (a) We were stuck in the ice (b) We stopped for the night as it looked like we were right in the middle of the sound where we would have to make a decision which route take (c) Something had damaged the propeller and we had a big problem. The day before and that evening we hit some heavy ice, some pieces being 6ft thick and blue ice (the hard stuff). When we went to sleep we were being bumped and banged around. How any vessel without an ice strengthened hull could do this is beyond my comprehension. The icebreaker breaks up the ice but does not create a clear sailing channel as I imagined. Following an ice breaker I still think you would need an ice strengthened hull. It is simply changed from a solid piece to broken up pieces but some are huge. THE ANSWER TO THE MYSTERY When we went to breakfast we got the “scoop” from the night before. We had been stuck once and the icebreaker went around the ship with the thrusters and broke us free. However the second time we were stuck that did not work. They said the ice breaker got really close with the thrusters but to no avail. So while we were at breakfast the ice breaker did the circle and thruster action again and slowly we started to move. WHEW! We have made slow progress today with exceptionally heavy ice. It is stunningly beautiful and they have stopped pointing out polar bears they are too far away and we cannot deviate our course. After lunch Linda, Susan and Arlene said they were going to go in the hot tub. I did not bring a swimsuit but said I would go to offer support! Well the hot tub was hot, the sun was shining and the ice was glittering. Beautiful time to sit in a hot tub. So with a little encouragement from the girls I decided to go in with my clothes on. I was wearing some fleece type pants that hold a lot of water. In my desire to participate I did not contemplate the dripping mess I would be when I left the water. Nor that I had just finished washing the outfit I was wearing. No problem, I squelched back to my cabin and rewashed the clothes it was worth it. The four girls had champagne and Brayden (Ralph’s 16 year old grandson) had a diet coke. This evening was really neat. The ship decided to just park and wait 8 hours as there was fog ahead. Some of the group went to “hot rocks” where you eat on deck and cook your own protein on a tile heated to 450 degrees. They could not have picked a more perfect night. Surrounded by sparkling ice, sunshine and the ice breaker coming right next to the ship (really close) to break up some ice around the ship I guess to ensure we would not get too stuck. Also the helicopter took off to decide the course we would take tomorrow. They also have lobster tails available at hot rocks and that was not available on the Discover. Seven of us were having dinner with Bruno the photographer so we could not do that but we had a great dinner with Bruno and the restaurant meal was the best I have had on the ship so we were all happy. We have booked Hot Rocks for all 18 of us for the night of the 24th and cross our fingers it is a good night to be on deck as it can be VERY cold. Tonight the expedition team had some evening entertainment that was really fun. We were all there participating. They do trivia here and team events but no emphasis placed on who actually WON. I like that it is just great to work as a team to figure out the answers. This was interrupted by yet another polar bear on our starboard side who was standing on his hind legs. We passed fairly quickly but Linda had her camera and got a shot and Ken is getting a copy of that so he can post it. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-5PJ9c7K/0/L/IMG_4805-01S-L.jpg)
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242196
08/24/14 10:34 AM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,069
Ngaire
OP
cruiser
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OP
cruiser
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 9,069 |
ICE AND MORE ICE – August 23rd. We made excellent time today. The ice thins out and we get some clear water and then the heavy ice comes back again. It is again a stunningly sunny day again! We really have lucked out with the weather as the ice is impossible to describe and is so gorgeous with the sun shining. It would not be the same if it was overcast all the time. More polar bears sighted but the ice breaker is loud and they run off so hard to get shots. At around 3.00 pm we said goodbye the ice and hit clear water. A contingent of the Coast Guard Ice Breaker came on the ship and were welcomed by cheering passengers. After they left the POLAR PLUNGE took place. Ten people jumped into the ocean and we have three of those, with Linda (of Linda and Chris) Barbara and Brayden. Pictures will be forthcoming. We are now sailing to the ice edge looking for more polar bears. Now we can get much closer and stop if we see bears. So tonight it is a buffet dinner in our WARM day clothes as we may be racing outside for more pictures this will probably be our last good chance as we will be losing the ice. Tonight or tomorrow we expect a return of the internet. This has become so long almost too long to read but I will post it anyway. After all this time without internet I am sure everyone will be on consistently for a while so that may take longer. We will do all we can today and be back later. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-rtCfz7J/0/L/1G8A8059-01S-L.jpg) Captain from the Ice Breaker comes over to the Silver Explorer. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-CZb2Zhd/0/L/1G8A8085-01S-L.jpg) Brayden jumps into the 33 degree water. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-QS6sRhn/0/L/1G8A8086-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-phTqnnB/0/L/1G8A8089-01S-L.jpg) ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-ngtsHVr/0/L/1G8A8091-01S-L.jpg) Boy that water is cold. ![[Linked Image]](http://ngaire.smugmug.com/Other/POSTING/i-JbjtqtB/0/L/1G8A8096-01S-L.jpg)
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242197
08/24/14 11:44 AM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 5,658
cruisinfanatic
cruiser
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cruiser
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 5,658 |
Amazing is all I can say, what an experience you'all are having and the pictures are just incredible. So glad you made it thur and all is well.
JoAnn
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242198
08/24/14 11:54 AM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,917
ssclbc
cruiser
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cruiser
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,917 |
Lauri
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242199
08/24/14 12:18 PM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,440
gf
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cruiser
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,440 |
Wow! What a suspenseful account! Were you ever afraid?
Thanks for all, including the fabulous pix, of course!
Another Kathy
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242200
08/24/14 12:27 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,407
Betty
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Posts: 3,407 |
Not too long at all. I enjoyed every word. And of course the photos. So nice they now have Hot Rocks. But it's the bears I would want to experience more than anything!
Betty
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242201
08/24/14 12:49 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,233
RachelG
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Posts: 1,233 |
SO glad you are safe and out of the ice. I was getting a bit worried. George is jealous.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242202
08/24/14 02:55 PM
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,078
Leslie B
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Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,078 |
Great reports and photos! WHAT an adventure you all are having. Can't wait to see and hear more. We've all been monitoring the ice reports and speculating. So glad you made it through!
Leslie
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242203
08/24/14 07:14 PM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 855
xrvlcruiser
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Posts: 855 |
I'm so glad all is well . . loved the reports!
Peggy
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242204
08/24/14 07:15 PM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 855
xrvlcruiser
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 855 |
I also meant to say I LOVED seeing Anna!
Peggy
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242205
08/24/14 07:50 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,782
seadog
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Posts: 1,782 |
WOW . Great to hear from you! Thank you for keeping the documentary going without internet all those days so you could share the amazing photos and reports! Loved reading it all!!
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242206
08/25/14 01:03 AM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,967
jhp
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,967 |
Why am I not surprised at Braden diving into that cold water? Ralph, you have given this kid memories for a lifetime. And the hot tub. I was with Susan on ICE (Explorer 2), and she did it again!
Peggy, Is that Anna from Regent who worked in the dining room? I loved that gal from my very beginning days with Regent! I've missed her lately.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242208
08/25/14 06:31 AM
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 199
sealover
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cruiser
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 199 |
Glad all is well with the cruise and the people on the ship. Jhp, that is the wonderful Anna who was on Regent. and she is definately missed. Elaine
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242209
08/25/14 07:03 AM
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Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 855
xrvlcruiser
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Posts: 855 |
jhp . . .yes that is "our" Anna! She moved over to SS several years ago.
Peggy
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242210
08/25/14 10:16 AM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 447
pammy
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Posts: 447 |
This is Bradon's third time. You would think a smart kid like he is,would know the water is not going to get any warmer each time. What an exciting trip. We were at the beach and it was 100. That cold and ice seems a great place to be. Enjoy your last days.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242240
08/31/14 02:18 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,233
RachelG
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,233 |
Where are they?? They are going to have to resurface soon, as the ship is supposed to be in Nome tomorrow.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242241
08/31/14 09:35 PM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,967
jhp
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cruiser
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 7,967 |
Rachel, I am wondering the same! I bet Ngaire has been keeping notes and saved. What an adventure they must have had.
After this, like someone mentioned before with concerns, I am wondering how a much larger Crystal ship could venture into these waters without having the reinforced hulls that the expedition ships have. Let alone the numbers of passengers aboard for landings, and getting them on and off for those zodiac wanderings. We had only about 200 aboard when I was on the Explorer 2, and there were still lines.
Elaine and Peggy, thanks for that news about Anna. Each cruise on Regent, I have been looking for her and she's never there.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242242
08/31/14 10:59 PM
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,218
jbittle
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cruiser
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,218 |
Olivia, If you read the small print on the Crystal itinerary for the NW Passage it says that not all guests will be able to go ashore at each place and the stay may be only 1 hour. Sounds like a lot of icy sea days to me. I hope the Explorer arrives on time too. We're in Anchorage and fly to Nome in the morning to go onboard. Maybe we'll see the LCT group in the airport.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242243
09/01/14 07:59 AM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,233
RachelG
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cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,233 |
Nome airport can't be that large, so I bet you will see some of the LCT group there. Have fun, and we will see you on the 19th.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242249
09/01/14 01:29 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 886
Ken
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cruiser
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 886 |
CAMBRIDGE BAY – August 24, 2014 – Internet and Hot Rocks dining. Well after working on the internet and watching a little of the folk show (not anywhere near as good as the Pond Inlet show) there was not much time for anything else. We did visit the Arctic Church with some unique stained glass windows. The birth of Jesus in an igloo being one of them. Ken took a few pictures.
Tonight we arranged a private group dinner on the deck cooking on the “hot rocks”. Anyone who has been on Silversea has probably done this before. They use tiles heated to 450 degrees and you cook your own protein on the tile. They have steaks, lobster tails and salmon. Lovely if it is a nice night but not so great if it is cold. We did this on the Discoverer and I was not enthralled. We froze and it took forever to cook the food. However, this night was wonderful. We all wore our warm coats and they had blankets but the night was not cold, no wind and it was very nice out. The food cooked really fast (I think the tiles must have been hotter) and we had an expedition team member at each of our three tables. This was a great evening. Most of them went down to play “name that tune” but Ken and I decided bed was calling.
A DAY AT SEA AND FINALLY A TRIVIA WIN - August 25th – no internet
Lots of card playing today. Trivia is held at tea time but always to do with the things we are “supposed” to be learning about. If you read the daily program and go to the lectures your odds increase. Unfortunately as a group we are not that good at doing those things. Today it was basically Geography. Those pesky questions “which is further North or South” with very little distance between the four choices. Plus lots of questions on flags of different counties. Out of 25 he said the scores are seldom over 10 right. We managed 14 right and tied for the win.
Dinner tonight was Mongolian. Not my cup of tea. The good thing is that the room service menu is good and at any meal you can order anything that is on the 24 hour room service menu. So even if a menu is not to your liking there are a lot of good choices.
SMOKING HILLS – August 26, 2014 – no internet Today we visited Smoking Hills by zodiac. A unique place discovered in 1826 where hydrocarbon (oil shales) have been burning for centuries. Obviously this is why the area was named Smoking Hills. The colors of all shades of yellow, red, and green coupled with the black of the coal were really quite beautiful. The mountain was smoking away and there were many areas where the smoke was rising from the mountain. Some down low and some pretty high up. This is not a volcanic issue but created by a chemical called Jaroside. All this is a perma frost area! The expedition team told us that the reaction is caused by the salt water. If you go over the top of the mountain there is no smoke. Actually more interesting than we thought it would be initially.
TUKTOYAKTUK – August 27, 2014 – no internet We sailed into the bay for Tuk (locals just called it Tuk) and the water is very shallow. So it was a 45 minute ride to the town. The town made a big effort. This is the first ship ever to visit Tuk. They had local guides to show each group around. School buses were also out for transportation.
The two most interesting things about this island were the Pingos and the Ice Freezer. Pingos are mounds formed from ice trapped below the top soil that pushes up the land. Some are quite high and look like small hills. We were able to walk up one that had a trail and it gave a great view of the town and ocean. There is an ICE ROAD in the winter over the ocean and into the McKenzie River that connects Tuk with other areas. In about three years they will have an all-weather road. Looking out on the ocean it is hard to imagine that ice road. The Ice Freezer went down 30 ft into the perma frost via a steep ladder. At the bottom were about 13 rooms and no light at all so you needed a flashlight. Those that signed the waiver and went down really found it interesting.
Then the town put on lunch for the all the passengers. Not my cup of tea, dried seal and fish, beluga whale, and white fish. It also included a caribou soup that was luke warm. This was followed by a show with drums and dancing, a fashion show and arctic games. We decided to eat lunch on board!
HEADING TO NOME -August 28 – September 1
It was announced we will have no internet for the rest of the trip. Little information on the details but some suspect something happened in the jarring ice we came through. They refunded all internet charges for the trip, the time that was used and of course the time still remaining. Now we have three days at sea with no internet. We have been without internet for about two weeks now!
During those days… Walrus sighting at around 8.00 am there were walrus on ice and we were able to get the ship right up the ice and the walrus it was a great sighting.
There was a game where guests wrote out funny things that had happened to them and then the other guests had to match each statement with a guest. Arlene entered a “hole in one at St. Andrews in Scotland”. The kicker was it was on the St. Andrews women’s putting green. That made everyone laugh. Ken told his “I was molested by a mountain gorillas in Rwanda story”. This was also a hit. On the trivia the next day one of the questions was, “which guest was molested by the mountain gorilla”? Our team own and got bottle of 1999 champagne and a red wine. We will drank these at our cocktail hour.
On the final Captain’s Farewell Night the crew did their first crew show after dinner. They put a lot into it but had a lot of technical difficulties with the microphones. It was not a slick show like you see on regular cruise ship. At the end the expedition team came out all dressed up and sang a song and played the music to the song I WILL SURVIVE – except it was titled WE WILL ARRIVE. The lyrics tell the whole story of the trip so I thought I would write these out as m final post.
1. At first I was afraid, I was petrified. Would we ever make it to the other side? The ice chart was so red, and distance seemed so long, but we grew strong, and we scribbled down this song. 2. And just like that, with no time to waste, the PIERRE RADISSON arrived to help us quicken our slow pace. We barreled through the ice past polar bears and bearded seals, while glaucous gull and terns ate ice breaker churned up meals. 3. Outside the hull, the ice it roars. Sometimes it scrapes so loud I can’t hear my roommate snore. Did Amundsen have an icebreaker with him too? Did he watch his helicopter fly off to tell him which way through? 4. Apple pie, eggs poached or fried. Sure the lettuce will lose its green, but at least in Nome we’ll arrive, we will arrive… True we got stuck in the ice, more than once, perhaps more than twice, But we will arrive we will arrive, Hey ..Hey 5. We saw brightly colored homes on barren tundra land, and a breaching whale we wanted to give a big hand. Musk ox and snow geese near a Devon Island Base. We often tried, but we couldn’t get online. 6. And on the bridge, no time for sleep. Luckily the scenery would make even the toughest cowboy weep. Ice pilot Mark, Captain and Staff Captain too took us to the Northwest Passage, and safely got us through.
The Silver Explorer was the ONLY passenger ship to make it through the Northwest Passage in 2014 and there was a lot of ice. It was a magical four days in the ice I will never forget the experience.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242251
09/01/14 02:24 PM
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,233
RachelG
cruiser
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cruiser
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,233 |
Wow, that is an amazing story, and it am sure there is more to come. And photos too.
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Re: SEA MAIL FROM NARWHAL
[Re: Ngaire]
#242252
09/01/14 04:03 PM
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,517
Ms Understood
cruiser
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cruiser
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,517 |
What a fascinating trip! And I marvel at the cleverness of whoever wrote that song! Starting to give some thought to packing for SUMO. Safe trip home to the NARWHAL ers heading that way. -------------- Helen
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